16

Some brewers have a unwarranted paranoia about oxygen and beer. Relax. If there were literally a "few bubbles" in the keg then I very much doubt it will cause the beer to oxidise. If the beer was not micro-filtered then remaining yeast in solution will use any dissolved oxygen quite quickly.


7

It's fine. I assume the beer is still actively fermenting, in which case not only will freshly-produced CO₂ (somewhat) displace the O₂ in the headspace, but the yeast can still clean up any O₂ that does dissolve into the young beer. Many high-gravity beers actually forcibly inject O₂ during the early stages of fermentation to get a solid ferment. RDWHAHB.


7

'Anything to worry about?' Really, it's nothing to worry about at all. 'Could this have oxidized the beer?' Sure, technically, but to a really negligible amount. How much this might effect the beer depends on when during fermentation/conditioning this was. During primary it's really inconsequential. During conditioning may be a tiny bit worse since ...


5

It really shouldn't be an issue for oxidation. I wouldn't worry about it. When racked properly only the surface area is exposed. At worse maybe the last couple bottles may have an issue. The beer is really at more risk of an airborne infection than oxidation in this limited time even at an hour as you said. Couple tips Oxidation manifests as a cardboard ...


5

Mostly you should be concerned with contamination. If the fall didn't compromise the lid or cause unwanted wild yeast or bacteria to get into your fermenter then you should be fine. Since I am assuming that your wort is actively fermenting then you should have a nice blanket of CO2 protecting your wort and oxidation shouldn't be an issue. I am also assuming ...


4

It has been said that for every 10C of temperature increase the oxidation rate roughly doubles. So yes temperature does increase oxidation rate. In general increases in heat increase all chemical reactions.


4

Wax dip gives an added layer of protection and look great too. The most functional part of a wax dip is to prevent crimp caps from rust from environment. Especially for beverages that will age in the bottle. Wax doesn't prevent oxygen with caps, if the cap breaches the wax breaks too. If corking, then wax functions as the oxygen barrier. Mtyh: Wax allows ...


4

The author of the article is reliable, Daniel Pambianchi has written books on homewinemaking. Avoid oxydation You need to be concerned about oxydation mainly after the completion of fermentation. Also oxidation is less prone to occur if the quantity of SO2 (sulfites) is sufficient, adding campden tablets can help if you want to age your wine for a long ...


4

It shouldn't be a big problem.


3

If the drop did not cause your fermenter to break, and it did not cause suction of fluid through the waterlock so that air could enter, your fermentation should still be all right. I do not think that the deceleration forces would have influence on the yeast.


3

No. There is no real advantage in dipping swing tops into molten wax before sealing. More to the point little bits of wax from the top might find their way into the mead. Being wax they tend to float and make presentation "less than optimal". Unfiltered/unpasteurised/unsterilised mead (like wine) will age well in a normally sealed bottle.


3

No problem on fermenter transport. Fermentation will still be going so no worries about oxidation. But I'd recommend a bucket rather than a carboy. Unbreakable.


3

It may surprise some readers to learn that I pour my beer from primary to secondary fermentation vessel and then (some days later) pour it back to mix in the priming sugar. I then use a "open" siphon with a manual tap at the end to transfer the beer into the bottles. So lots of chance for contamination and "oxygenation". I have done this for several years ...


3

First of all, once you remove the trub bulb, there is no need to add another one. If you don't add another trub bulb and open the valve, how are you getting your "glub"? The idea is, attach the bulb before you rack in your wort and pitch yeast, transfer the wort and open the valve (that way your hand is on the valve and you can verify that nothing is ...


3

Because that's not how gasses work. :) Gasses in a space, especially under pressure, are going to come into an equilibrium, a homogeneous combination. While during active fermentation, or for a brief period of time after off-gassing CO₂ the (heavier) CO₂ will form some sort of layer/"barrier" on top of the beer, after time or once pressurized, that will not ...


3

Oxidation has the opposite affect. It creates hydroxides. What oxidation will do however is impart a candyish jolly rancher like flavor which I personally find distasteful. A typical and well characterized example of what this ends up tasting like is comparing a good strawberry wine or watermelon wine with those that have oxidized. Good wines of these two ...


3

Google for polystyrene wine storage. Those containers are great for shipping beer and you can get them in various sized. When you have your container get bubble wrap and place a double layer of bubble wrap in the bottom of each pocket. Cool your beer to close to 0C (32F), Don't worry, it won't freeze. Just before shipping, remove the beers from the fridge ...


3

All you can really do is ensure that your fermentation, sanitation and bottling practices are as sound as possible. You should (as you seem to) definitely expect that your beer will see the worst conditions you could think of, chiefly: heat and cold (and rapid and frequent swings between the two); and near-constant agitation. To combat this, you'll want to ...


3

I have 20 years of winemaking experience, 15 years owning my own winery. Let me tell you what I did and what the vast majority of winemakers do. Very little. Use sulphites and maintain their levels based on pH of your wine. Keep your barrels topped up. Gently rack, but don't go overboard. Red wine, especially tannic ones, need some Oxygen to soften the ...


2

I would be surprised if there is any merit to it, at least as far as my understanding of the science behind the oxygen absorbing crowns go. O2 can't simply be absorbed - it has to bond with another substance and oxidize it. The idea is that there is a substance in the crown that when activated by becoming wet will bond with O2, causing the chemicals in the ...


2

It appears that there are both homebrew and commercial issues with absorbing crown liners causing some issues. There is a tweet circa 2010 by Ray Daniels (Cicerone) claiming 2/3s of a loss of aroma within a couple of weeks. I don't know how accurate this claim is; however, I can tell you that I use the caps with my beers, and if I'm drinking them within 6 ...


2

Certainly doesn't sound like it. Oxidation can take a number of forms other than "wet cardboard". It can manifest as metallic flavors or weirdly caramel notes. It sounds more like an infection than oxidation to me.


2

Your biggest problem is probably bugs; fruit flies, flies, cockroaches, etc. If possible, get someone to cover the beer and protect it from critters. Cling wrap and an elastic should be enough. Yes, there is a chance that your beer may have become infected (especially if bugs got in). But I would taste before kegging/bottling. If it tastes fine you are ...


2

There's no need for an airlock. By the time you get to cold crashing, fermentation is done so the need for an airlock is gone. I seal the fermenter using a solid stopper before cold crashing.


2

O2 is important to big brewers because the beer will get warm and cold many times and they can't control the age. Drink it fresh and enjoy it. It might not last as long as a super low DO beer like Sierra Nevada but it will be fine in the short run.


2

This is a valid way to do it. There will be a slight amount of air and therefore oxygen sucked in, but not enough that I would worry about it.


1

You might have issues. Taste your beer every week to see how the flavor is developing and keep notes. I recently had to dump a bunch of bottles that had become oxidized when I racked to the bottling bucket. I too had siphoning troubles and many air bubbles began traveling through the tube. As the beer aged over the next 4 weeks the smell was always good, ...


1

If you have a corker, you can use a cork on wine screw-top bottles. Even if the opening is sometimes lightly smaller, the cork will go in. I tried it many times with success, I also used corks with Scotch bottles with success. Keeping wine in a plastic primary fermenter for a long time is not a good idea after the fermentation is done, they are not 100% ...


1

You're absolutely right that tannins (a kind of polyphenol) are anti-oxidative and that increased levels in finished have been linked to a lower degree of beer staling (in this paper, for example). I've never heard the claim of their anti-UV-light effects though, so I won't touch on that. It's a tricky question because there will always be a trade-off ...


1

Add the campden tablets and once they have dissolved you are good to go with your bottling. For further reading: http://www.eckraus.com/blog/add-campden-tablets-to-wine


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