15

Some brewers have a unwarranted paranoia about oxygen and beer. Relax. If there were literally a "few bubbles" in the keg then I very much doubt it will cause the beer to oxidise. If the beer was not micro-filtered then remaining yeast in solution will use any dissolved oxygen quite quickly.


9

I use the better bottle PET carboys for my lagers, and have noticed no oxidization. The amount of oxygen introduced through the carboy itself is negligible compared to the amount introduced through the stopper or when racking to the bottling bucket or transferring to keg. The Better Bottle page discussing permeability aims to show that plastic is fine for ...


7

It's fine. I assume the beer is still actively fermenting, in which case not only will freshly-produced CO₂ (somewhat) displace the O₂ in the headspace, but the yeast can still clean up any O₂ that does dissolve into the young beer. Many high-gravity beers actually forcibly inject O₂ during the early stages of fermentation to get a solid ferment. RDWHAHB.


7

By being safe and deliberate with your racking methods, I doubt you'll have much of a problem. I believe a fair amount of the problems stem from lack of improper methods of racking (among other things). Some of the things that cause oxidation include: Not getting the siphon tube to sit in the bottom of carboy/bucket/keg while transferring Getting a lot of ...


7

'Anything to worry about?' Really, it's nothing to worry about at all. 'Could this have oxidized the beer?' Sure, technically, but to a really negligible amount. How much this might effect the beer depends on when during fermentation/conditioning this was. During primary it's really inconsequential. During conditioning may be a tiny bit worse since ...


6

Oxidization happens when there is oxygen dissolved in the beer, such when the beer is splashed or agitated in air. I've always been careful with racking, using either a regular siphon started by blowing into the carboy (through a sanitary air filter) or via an autosiphon. About 2 years ago, I had oxidization problems in a few batches which appeared after ...


5

It really shouldn't be an issue for oxidation. I wouldn't worry about it. When racked properly only the surface area is exposed. At worse maybe the last couple bottles may have an issue. The beer is really at more risk of an airborne infection than oxidation in this limited time even at an hour as you said. Couple tips Oxidation manifests as a cardboard ...


5

Mostly you should be concerned with contamination. If the fall didn't compromise the lid or cause unwanted wild yeast or bacteria to get into your fermenter then you should be fine. Since I am assuming that your wort is actively fermenting then you should have a nice blanket of CO2 protecting your wort and oxidation shouldn't be an issue. I am also assuming ...


4

Go ahead and move it. You won't oxidize the beer - the headspace is already filled with co2, and the yeast will scavenge any oxygen that does make it into the beer.


4

The reason it's not an issue in primary is because the headspace is full of CO2 - all the oxygen has been purged and replaced with CO2 many many times over during fermentation. When you rack to secondary, the headspace is full of air - 21% oxygen - so you want to minimize the headspace to reduce both the surface area of the wort and the amount of oxygen ...


4

I'd say keep your hopes up. Unless you pumped a ton of air through it, I don't think it will absorb as much as you think it will. The real problem comes when you slosh it around in the carboy afterwards if you are moving it to a fermentation vessel or closet somewhere, since you removed the layer of CO2 that was resting on top of the carboy and replaced it ...


4

"Because I'm wondering if the whole "oxidation" concern is really only applicable to someone who is splish-splashing around in the kitchen." In a word, yes.


4

Wax dip gives an added layer of protection and look great too. The most functional part of a wax dip is to prevent crimp caps from rust from environment. Especially for beverages that will age in the bottle. Wax doesn't prevent oxygen with caps, if the cap breaches the wax breaks too. If corking, then wax functions as the oxygen barrier. Mtyh: Wax allows ...


4

It shouldn't be a big problem.


4

The author of the article is reliable, Daniel Pambianchi has written books on homewinemaking. Avoid oxydation You need to be concerned about oxydation mainly after the completion of fermentation. Also oxidation is less prone to occur if the quantity of SO2 (sulfites) is sufficient, adding campden tablets can help if you want to age your wine for a long ...


3

Oxidation has the opposite affect. It creates hydroxides. What oxidation will do however is impart a candyish jolly rancher like flavor which I personally find distasteful. A typical and well characterized example of what this ends up tasting like is comparing a good strawberry wine or watermelon wine with those that have oxidized. Good wines of these two ...


3

I've done it and it works fine, although it isn't ideal. You do risk possible oxidation, but if you don't keep it there for too long you should be OK. Do you happen to have a CO2 tank to purge the 6 gal. with? Or how about using the 6 gal. for the new batch of beer and skipping secondary on the other one? Secondary is usually unnecessary.


3

First of all, once you remove the trub bulb, there is no need to add another one. If you don't add another trub bulb and open the valve, how are you getting your "glub"? The idea is, attach the bulb before you rack in your wort and pitch yeast, transfer the wort and open the valve (that way your hand is on the valve and you can verify that nothing is ...


3

Because that's not how gasses work. :) Gasses in a space, especially under pressure, are going to come into an equilibrium, a homogeneous combination. While during active fermentation, or for a brief period of time after off-gassing CO₂ the (heavier) CO₂ will form some sort of layer/"barrier" on top of the beer, after time or once pressurized, that will not ...


3

It has been said that for every 10C of temperature increase the oxidation rate roughly doubles. So yes temperature does increase oxidation rate. In general increases in heat increase all chemical reactions.


3

It may surprise some readers to learn that I pour my beer from primary to secondary fermentation vessel and then (some days later) pour it back to mix in the priming sugar. I then use a "open" siphon with a manual tap at the end to transfer the beer into the bottles. So lots of chance for contamination and "oxygenation". I have done this for several years ...


3

No problem on fermenter transport. Fermentation will still be going so no worries about oxidation. But I'd recommend a bucket rather than a carboy. Unbreakable.


3

No. There is no real advantage in dipping swing tops into molten wax before sealing. More to the point little bits of wax from the top might find their way into the mead. Being wax they tend to float and make presentation "less than optimal". Unfiltered/unpasteurised/unsterilised mead (like wine) will age well in a normally sealed bottle.


3

If the drop did not cause your fermenter to break, and it did not cause suction of fluid through the waterlock so that air could enter, your fermentation should still be all right. I do not think that the deceleration forces would have influence on the yeast.


3

I have 20 years of winemaking experience, 15 years owning my own winery. Let me tell you what I did and what the vast majority of winemakers do. Very little. Use sulphites and maintain their levels based on pH of your wine. Keep your barrels topped up. Gently rack, but don't go overboard. Red wine, especially tannic ones, need some Oxygen to soften the ...


2

You won't necessarily pick up more oxygen, if you purge both the keg, carboy and filter with CO2. Purging will minimize the exposure to oxygen. But you'd need 3 transfers: rack from the carboy to the keg (only the keg will handle pressure.) from the keg, through the filter, to the carboy. finally, rack from the carboy to the keg again. With this many ...


2

24 hours in, I don't think you have much to worry about. As mdma suggested, you still have active yeast that would gladly clean out any oxygen that finds its way into the beer. That said, I would either move the fermenter very soon or not at all. The vast majority of your fermentation is going to happen in the first 2-3 days. That period of most active ...


2

I would be surprised if there is any merit to it, at least as far as my understanding of the science behind the oxygen absorbing crowns go. O2 can't simply be absorbed - it has to bond with another substance and oxidize it. The idea is that there is a substance in the crown that when activated by becoming wet will bond with O2, causing the chemicals in the ...


2

It appears that there are both homebrew and commercial issues with absorbing crown liners causing some issues. There is a tweet circa 2010 by Ray Daniels (Cicerone) claiming 2/3s of a loss of aroma within a couple of weeks. I don't know how accurate this claim is; however, I can tell you that I use the caps with my beers, and if I'm drinking them within 6 ...


2

Certainly doesn't sound like it. Oxidation can take a number of forms other than "wet cardboard". It can manifest as metallic flavors or weirdly caramel notes. It sounds more like an infection than oxidation to me.


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