9

These are called swing-top bottles, and they're fine for re-use as long as they originally contained a carbonated drink like beer, and the glass has no chips or cracks. The usual advice regarding re-using commercial bottles applies here. First make sure they are clean, and then sanitize them before filling with delicious homebrew. The easiest way to clean ...


9

Brewing Network should be your starting point. Download The Jamil Show, Brew Strong and Brewing With Style and listen to everything from the start. Yes, it is a LOT of podcasts, but you will learn so many things! There are other podcasts on the network, but I will recommend those to start with. Topics: EVERYTHING. They cover all topics, from very basic to ...


9

This can work very nicely from my experience, I often use S-04 and US-05. The S-04 gives esters as you suspect and the US-05 gives a higher attenuation and a thinner body. The majority of esters are generated during the first 3 days of fermentation and the major difference of a high attenuation yeast will not really be apparent until the later than this ...


9

No. The settled yeast (trub/dregs) from primary shouldn't be included in bottling. There's plenty of yeast in suspension to bottle condition, unless your cold weather was enough to completely crash and fine in primary. But that would need to be below 40°F for a couple days.


8

I would get hold of another sachet of yeast as a backup. If you have a local homebrew store, almost any type of yeast will work for this kit, but I'd recommend Safale US-05 if you can get that, since that will give you a cleaner profile. If they have liquid yeasts, then Wyeast 1056 or White Labs WLP001 will produce equivalent results. Once you've got hold of ...


8

Here is a link to an overview of sugars in beer I have brewed with multiple sugars before but never maple and I'm not certain what golden syrup is. Honey is a very common ingredient. In my uses it leaves a mild honey flavor but ferments out almost completely. I've used brown sugar and it adds a sweetness but I personally feel the raw demerara sugar leaves a ...


8

Yes, you should wait. The escaping CO2 will carry off the hop aroma you're trying to get through dry hopping. It's best to remove the beer from the yeast completely before dry hopping. There is an interaction between yeast and hops that can cause the hops to produce a very floral, rose-like ester which can be disagreeable.


8

Absolutely not a problem. You will gain just a bit of extra bitterness by boiling longer, but so little that I doubt you could notice it.


8

Basic Brewing Radio Basic brewing, Interviews Gravity, Malts, Equipment, Quality, Everything http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio Episodes: 50+ Brew Strong Water treatment, Interviews, Mead http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/category/shows/brewstrong/ Episodes: 50+ The Jamil Show Recieps, Brewing http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/...


7

Your process sounds fine - it's the way you're using the hydrometer that's the problem. To estimate alcohol content, you need to take a reading at the start of fermentation. You cannot read the alcohol content from the hydrometer alcohol scale at the end of fermentation. The hydrometer cannot measure the alcohol content directly, but it can estimate how ...


7

Seal the beer off from oxygen as soon as possible. If you decide to use the airlock, use sanitized water only. If you have access to CO2, put a layer of the gas over your beer as soon as possible (then close it off). If you've achieved your desired final gravity and you don't need to let it sit in the fermenter any longer, you could also bottle it or keg it ...


7

Unless you were planning on heating the juice itself to a high enough temperature to kill anything in it, it's not really going to matter. Any bacteria or wild yeasts present on the inside of the carboy will also be in the juice itself already. If the juice is labeled as having been pasteurized, then it and its container are probably reasonably sanitary ...


7

Grats on your first brew! Ultimately you need to draw beer from above the trub (sediment). If your fermentor is designed for fermenting and has a spigot, it should have an adjustable arm you can turn to draw beer from above the trub. If it's a bottling bucket you can prop up the bucket a couple inches while it's settling to get trub to settle away from ...


7

Get yourself a decent homebrewing book. John Palmer's book "How to Brew" is a great starting place. Watch some youtube videos on homebrewing. This one has a million views. (You guys are lucky, when I started we didn't have youtube.) Join a homebrew club and watch someone brew some beer. The American Homebrewers Association (AHA) has a ton of information ...


7

If you are worried about the yeast getting through that bag, you have nothing to worry about. When we talk about sterile filtration, the generally accepted size of the filter is .45u (micron). 1000 microns = 1 millimeter. While the mesh on that bag is less than a millimeter, it's not even close to .45u. I don't think that most breweries even sterile filter ...


6

Yes, you can make a concentrated wort and the dilute that after the boil as with extract. The key differences are: lower mash efficiency: higher gravity mashes tend to have lower conversion efficiency. To keep boil volume to a minimum, you might even choose not to sparge, and just use the first runnings - expect conversion efficiency around 50%. More grain ...


6

champagne has lots of qualities that contribute to it's taste, so it could be many things, depending upon which part of the champagne taste you are detecting in your beer, but a few things jump to mind excessive fizziness caused by over carbonation yeast death - autolysis is usually present in small amounts in champagne, and this can occur in beer if it ...


6

When racking from a primary fermenter to a secondary vessel, you will leave behind a non-trivial amount of "stuff" so the volume in the secondary will be less than the volume in the primary. If you start with five gallons in the fermenter you won't have five gallons left to bottle, but it isn't any more concentrated than when you started. If your OG and FG ...


6

I've brewed for years without starsan. Bleach, as mentioned in the above link, is good for fermenters and bottles. Extra contact time (a few hours if possible) doesn't hurt. Keep away from metals, especially copper. Rinse away with boiled water. High concentrations are still my favorite for dissolving a mold colony in a hurry. Boiling: good for small items ...


6

Fermentation temperature is often overlooked and it's really the key to making good beer. If you don't control the temp, everything else you do doesn't really matter. I prefer most beers to ferment in the 63-65F range. Whatever you do, don't let the beer get over 70F. That's beer temp, not room temp. Due to the heat created during fermentation, the beer ...


6

It's not contradictory so much as it's all valid. :) To answer the titular question: yes, you can dry-hop in primary. Long-term aging is really the only reason to rack to secondary. Dry-hopping, fruit additions, &c. can all happen in primary just fine. Anything that happens w/in 6 months can happen in one vessel (primary) or two (primary and secondary).


6

In my opinion a "secondary" should be viewed as a tool. A potentially useful tool, but best used by someone who really has a grip of their brewing process and using it for a very specific purpose. I agree with Palmer, dont chase what the big brewers do, they have different issues then homebrewers. I would definitely suggest dry hopping in your primary vessel ...


6

As jsled says you have no worries. You are doing the right things, not touching it or putting it down. If just for a few seconds to check on the brew you'll be fine, also you will gain experience regarding how your brew evolves over time. You should not worry as you are not setting it down for it to pick up bacterial contamination. Yes there is a tiny ...


6

I have had something similar, I was brewing a Bohemian Pilsner Ale and the yeast formed tennis ball sized clumps on the top of the beer! I freaked out! But I recited the Papazian mantra and kegged the beer. That beer ended up being one my best beers ever. Some yeasts (S04 in my case) sometimes flocculate, but in the process still have so much CO2 that they ...


6

I have no idea about the OP's water but here in Sussex UK I use the water straight out of the tap. I would not boil it - I would just add it to the wort in the FV, pitch the yeast and let it ferment. In most situations, fermentation is quite capable of dealing with and neutralising most common (and virulent) pathogens. Indeed, it is one of the useful effects ...


6

I'd collect: The recipe: grain bill, hops and their times, adjuncts and their times, amount of water. That way you can try to recreate the same beer if it was good. You can tweak any of grain bill, hops, timing, and so on to see how the beer changes. Once you get more advanced, take other readings: You already mentioned gravity. When you brew all-grain, ...


6

Here's a couple reading I find important that many over look. All-grain. Mash pH is very important. Doing an iodine test during the mash is a good practice to check if conversion is done. Why mash for 90 min if it's done at 45? Water chemistry. Most home brewers build thier own profile from RO. Then many have great local water. Knowing what's in it will ...


5

Boiling serves a few purposes in beer. Mainly it is done for the dual purpose of extracting bitterness from hops while also killing any wild yeast or bacteria that were on the brewing ingredients. In the case of hopped malt extract, the bitterness has already been extracted for you, and the extract itself is totally sterile as its already been boiled down ...


5

Different yeast strains can look a little different in the bottle as well. One characteristic of yeast is how well it "compacts" at the bottom of the fermentor or bottle. Some strains, like English Ale yeasts, are known for creating a very tight, compacted sediment, whereas others leave the yeast cake much more "fluffy". And yes, the yeast caked that you ...


5

Yep. Just keep it away from sun light. I do this all winter without problems.


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