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8

Yes, you should wait. The escaping CO2 will carry off the hop aroma you're trying to get through dry hopping. It's best to remove the beer from the yeast completely before dry hopping. There is an interaction between yeast and hops that can cause the hops to produce a very floral, rose-like ester which can be disagreeable.


7

In my experience, dry-hopping is more important for aroma than flameout additions, unless you either go overboard with your flameout quantities or you do a hopstand. You may get a very slight bit more flavor out of a flameout addition, but my palette can't detect the difference. During fermentation, the CO2 will carry a lot of the aroma with it as it ...


7

I think the primary factor would be how much you're dry-hopping with. More hops means more of the volatile aromatic compounds that produce those aromas. Most of the recipes I've seen call for somewhere from 1 to 4 ounces of hops in the fermenter but I've heard of people using as many as 10+ ounces for dry-hopping. I'm not sure how that matches up with what ...


7

In addition to the other answers which I agree with. Late boil additions are very important too at last 1-5 minutes or whirlpool. These add a "deep" aroma for lack of a better term. They seem to bond to the wort at this temp and hang on through fermentation. Dry hopping in early fermentation while does add aroma and flavor tends to have much of it blown ...


7

If you are worried about the yeast getting through that bag, you have nothing to worry about. When we talk about sterile filtration, the generally accepted size of the filter is .45u (micron). 1000 microns = 1 millimeter. While the mesh on that bag is less than a millimeter, it's not even close to .45u. I don't think that most breweries even sterile filter ...


6

The oils aren't produced from dry hopping, the oils are in the hop cones themselves. Its the stuff in the lupulin glands of the cones that contains the oils. I usually see the oil floating on top of the beer in the carboy. But that likely isn't the only place the oil goes. Its pretty sticky stuff and a lot of it sticks to the yeast, proteins, trub and ...


6

I've had bitter hop flavor come from dry hopping as well. The quoted text from the OP makes sense to me: Dry hopping is essentially creating a tincture. Don't believe me? Drop 3 grams of a high alpha hop in a liter of vodka and come back in a month, chose something fruity and popular like mosaic or galaxy. 3 grams is toughly equal to 2 oz in a 5 gallon ...


6

It's not contradictory so much as it's all valid. :) To answer the titular question: yes, you can dry-hop in primary. Long-term aging is really the only reason to rack to secondary. Dry-hopping, fruit additions, &c. can all happen in primary just fine. Anything that happens w/in 6 months can happen in one vessel (primary) or two (primary and secondary).


6

In my opinion a "secondary" should be viewed as a tool. A potentially useful tool, but best used by someone who really has a grip of their brewing process and using it for a very specific purpose. I agree with Palmer, dont chase what the big brewers do, they have different issues then homebrewers. I would definitely suggest dry hopping in your primary vessel ...


6

Apparently it means to add to Fermentation Vessel as you noted. https://www.brewdog.com/lowdown/blog/diy-dog I'm guessing it means in the primary, as most dry hops are in secondary. This would be the similar as a whirlpool addition, but have more rest time and hop trub for the primary. Edit After more review of the other recipes. FV would be in the ...


6

What your describing is volcano bottles. Over carbonation This is caused by bottle conditioning with too much priming sugar, too much residual sugar or wild yeast infection. Priming sugar misdose is easily prevented with proper measuring. Residual sugar is prevented by taking final gravity readings to make sure fermentation is complete instead of a ...


5

The color is just from the oils of the hops, likely discolored further from extended use and boiling. You sanitizing it by boiling it will kill off most unwanted bacteria from settling in. If you're worried that it'll get too grimy, weight it down into an Oxy-Clean or PBW solution for 24-48 hours, taking it out periodically to scrub it and rinse it before ...


5

I cold crash (and fine with gelatin) at 30F for two or three days before kegging. I have found that 30F for two days clears my beer better than weeks at 38F in my refrigerator. If you plan to bottle the beer, you might fear that you'll drop too much yeast out, leaving you with too little yeast to carbonate the beer. That isn't a concern. Plenty of beer has ...


5

From my experience thesquaregroot got it mostly rigtht - fresh hops and sufficient quantity. There is one more really important factor. As far as my experiments go, 4 days before adding hops and bottling are optimal. Any more or less time means less aroma - it either didn't dissolve in your beer yet, or already started to evaporate. And never, ever dry-hop ...


5

This is really a question would take a book to answer completly. I'll try to hit the main points. Yes. What hops are added to does change aroma and flavor. Because of the blending of everything. (Balance of a beer) Specifically alcohol with hop flavor and aroma interactions all have good aspects in wide ratios. Alcohol "heat" tends to make hops bite a ...


5

Wait!!! Does the beer taste good? If so, just leave it, it wont be as bitter as the recipe sure, but good beer is good beer. It's probably OK. Hop additions are numbered by the amount of boil time in minutes. So a 60 minute addition boils for 60 minutes, and a 0 minute (or "flameout") is added at the end of the boil. So given you reversed your hop ...


5

If its still in the fermentation vessel, then yes you can dry hop. My advise is, if you have a 5 gal Batch, dry hop a gallon of it and test it out. that way if its not what you expected then you still have your original and if it is what you expected, you can scale it up. Then if it has your desired depth of flavor, build it in to your next iteration of ...


5

Dry hopping will have a much larger impact on aroma than taste. Sniff the hops you are thinking of adding while sipping the beer (ideally a previous batch of the same recipe if this one hasn't dried out yet) to get a sense of the outcome.


4

In the absence of facts, be creative... Building on the idea that "Dry" is an antonym for "Sweet", perhaps "Dry Hopping" is... The adding of hops after the yeast has consumed most of the sugars, when the wort/beer is comparatively no longer sweet. I'm not claiming any proof that this is the origin of the phrase, just a completely unfounded yet apparently ...


4

I can't really answer your question, but I've found some interesting information nonetheless. The phrase "dry hopped" didn't appear until the early 20th century, according to Google's NGram. The sense of the phrase, from looking at a few samples seems to be the same as in modern use. "Hopped down" was a synonym that has fallen out of favour.


4

While some claim that the addition of hops to their beer have contributed to contamination, it is quite rare considering how hops are anti-microbial in nature. While not having any way of confirming it, I would suspect contamination on those situations occurred due to some other unsanitary practice (didn't sanitize the bag, weights, or it was already ...


4

It's likely that your pellets had some very finely chopped hops in them. They have escaped the bag and triggered a bit of bubble formation in the beer, bringing them to the top of the beer. Hopefully they'll stick to the fermenter when you rack or bottle.


4

Hey experimenting is half the fun of brewing! If you keep good notes on recipes and final product you can really start to understand what works together and produce better and better beer. Without knowing what your grain bill I would say this looks a little aggressive. As a reference, let's say you were shooting for a 1.065 o.g. (6.5% ish) your current hop ...


4

How much of a risk is this? - To answer your first question the risk is minimal. once fermentation has begun in force the solution is mostly unfavorable for non yeast microorganisms. no this isn't to say that a bad bacteria cant get in and spoil every thing they certainly can and will but generally the yeast will take care of itself. How can I minimize the ...


4

Fermenting/fermented beer has something like 0.8 volumes of CO₂ dissolved into it. Adding hops creates a ton of nucleation points for CO₂ bubbles to form. Fermentation has likely not restarted. You can add the second batch of hops whenever you like.


4

Yeah, it may. If you can chill the before racking to a keg it should drop the hops. If you can' do that, you can just wait til they drop on their own.


4

I'm not a fan of using bags in fermentation The bags usually float giving a perfect media for bacteria on the exposed area to grow on. Expecially in secondary when c02 levels are the lowest. Also in a carboy it's very difficult to remove. As far as floating particles You won't have any issues by adding loose pellets, if you could crash the secondary and ...


4

No. Unless it's a cloudy style that relies on particulates. But putting that bag over your racking cane will probably just clog up and be a frustrating mess. I would use finings and cold crash. Then use the racking cane as intended no to disturb the trub.


3

You can also try bleaching the bag. That should return it to a white-ish color. Just wash it afterwards! I believe you can use the bag as long as it is structurally sound and the material has not started to break apart.


3

You can continue to reuse the bag plenty, a bit of coloration from the hops and beer is no a problem. Boiling will kill everything you're worried about, although you can also soak the bag in sanitizer. The best method I have found for cleaning hop bags is the washing machine. Throw all your brewing towels, hop bags, grain sacks, etc. in the washing ...


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