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16

Some brewers have a unwarranted paranoia about oxygen and beer. Relax. If there were literally a "few bubbles" in the keg then I very much doubt it will cause the beer to oxidise. If the beer was not micro-filtered then remaining yeast in solution will use any dissolved oxygen quite quickly.


9

The tank-side pressure is mostly measuring the temperature of the CO₂ tank, not the actual amount of CO₂ remaining. Above the triple-point of CO₂ at about 517 kPa ~ 75 psi, the pressure reading is dominated not by the amount of CO₂, but the temperature, which relates to the fraction of gas vs. liquid in that equilibrium. You'll notice your CO₂ tank will ...


8

No, at homebrew scale and in household settings leaking CO2 is not a serious concern, and is probably very low on the list of "occupational" hazards that homebrewers are at risk of and fail to recognize. Before getting into the math, you must realize that almost all houses are leaky in the sense that inside air is mixing with outside air, either because ...


7

Short answer, yes you should. Longer answer, I often don't and haven't had any problems. Like many things in brewing, there's best practice and then there's what you can get away with.


7

They are slightly differently sized. In particular, the grey gas fitting will fit over the "out" post, but the black liquid fitting will not fit over the "in" post without significant pain. But, yes you should treat them as the separate things they are.


7

My experience has shown that going through the beer out line doesn't change the rate the beer carbs up. Whether using the 'set and forget' process, or the high PSI and shake method. The bubbles coming out the bottom really aren't increasing the surface ratio enough for it to be significant. The bubbles just rush up to the surface. The downside to the ...


7

No, it will not. A concern you might have if the keg was full would be the sudden foaming as you depressurize, which might overflow the keg. But at 1/4 full, no problem. If you're concerned about O₂, don't be. You'll have a keg full of heavy CO₂, and will only open the lid for a few moments, not enough time for any substantial O₂ to mix in. If you're ...


7

Yes you will oxidize the cider (or beer or wine) if you don't use CO2 or some other inert gas like Nitrogen (but that has it's own problems). Oxygen will not "reignite" the yeast. Yeast will happily ferment with CO2 or Helium or Nitrogen or whatever gas you use. Make sure your cider is done fermenting, then put it in the keg. Purge the headspace with CO2. ...


6

You only need multiple line regulators if you want different beers at different pressures. I think 90+% of people just dispense their beers at the same pressure. Hence, they only use one regulator. If having a very bubbly Belgian Tripel and a softly carbonated English Mild on draft side is something you MUST have then two different line regulators becomes ...


6

Just becasue you don't use secondary doesn't mean you can't rack to a bottling bucket and bottle from that. That's what I do. So, to answer the question directly, the best way to bottle from a primary is to not bottle from a primary!


6

I would say the beer is over carbonated from the start. Usually 2 weeks at serving pressure 12-14psi at any temp is good for 5 gallon kegs. Your lines could use some adjusting to pour at the same average psi for most styles 12-14psi. Right now your lines will pour a pint in about 6 seconds at 8 psi. Most will shoot for about 8-10 seconds at a higher serving ...


5

By poppet do you mean the little springy thing inside of the keg post or do you mean the outer keg post itself? I'll try to answer both. I have ruined a few poppets by forcing them out with a screw driver and had to replace. The replacement poppets do not stick in as hard and normally fall right out. For cleaning I go with a long soak in PBW then StarSan ...


5

You definitely don't need a second tank. What you need is something like this. If you have an existing dual-gauge regulator you can just remove the cylinder stem and use a nipple to couple a single-gauge regulator on there. Or if you have a single-gauge regulator you'd just remove the cap nut from where the second (high-pressure) gauge would be and do the ...


5

I would give it a try. I have done this with a Sanke keg several times. Couple thoughts: - If it is an old Pepsi corny, you may be able to unscrew the pressure relief valve, remove, use an air lock or blow off tube. - Once activity has slowed, (Like only a few points above terminal gravity) replace the pressure relief valve and let it naturally carbonate. ...


5

Let's separate this out into two phases: carbonation and dispensing. Carbonation inside a keg can be done just like carbonation inside a bottle: by the addition of a specific amount of sugar, which will be fermented by the residual yeast, which will create a specific amount of CO₂, measured in "volumes". With external CO₂, however, you can also "force ...


5

Keep an eye on Craigslist for a used refrigerator. You can often get them free or nearly free if you pick it up. That's all you need: take the shelves out, and you can keep your keg in there with a picnic tap. I did this for about 15 years in my basement. If you want to get fancy, you could get a kit to put a faucet through the side so you don't have to open ...


5

It it not a necessary step. (Neither is "secondary", usually.) [EDIT: I missed a potential misconception you have about transfering the yeast when kegging:] Usually, you will attempt to minimize how much yeast you transfer into the kegs, as instead of using priming sugar and yeast to carbonate, you can force-carbonate by applying direct and measured CO₂ ...


5

Yes. The relation between temperature, pressure and volumes of CO₂ are true at higher-than-fridge temperatures, as well. The biggest difference is that with the higher pressure required for the carbonation at the higher temperature, you'll need longer beer serving lines to resist the extra pressure to get a reasonable pour without foaming. Let's say ...


5

Yes you can do that. As long as you have a pressure regulator the head space does not influence how much your beer will be carbonated. Remember that CO2 dissolution in beer mainly depends on pressure and temperature, so consult a table like this this and see what's best for your setup. Hope it helps.


5

Kegged beer should last almost as long as bottled beer if sanitation and gas pressures are properly maintained. I don't think you need to do anything different because you are kegging it. The high ABV should allow you to store it in a keg for many months if not years.


4

You should be OK. The connectors are not identical inside the keg. The beer out connector has a long tube to take it to the bottom of the keg. The gas in connector is open near the top of the keg. This is so the gas pushes the beer up the tube from the bottom. By reversing the posts you are effectively pushing the beer out the top of the keg by bubbling CO2 ...


4

As you drink the beer, more CO2 needs to be put in the keg to maintain the carbonation level. For beer at 65-75F°F, that's quite warm, and you'll need around 25psi to maintain the carbonation level. My guess is that you weren't holding the keg at this pressure, so it slowly loses carbonation as the beer is consumed. Dispensing at this pressure can be ...


4

I've seen a couple of pages now that list numbers on the milage of a 5 lb tank. From what I gather you can carbonate 5-7 5 gallon corny kegs with a 5 lb tank. You can serve 15-22 5 gallon kegs with a 5 lb tank. Links on how many kegs you can force carbonate with a 5 lb tank: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/how-much-co2-force-carbonate-333455/ http://www....


4

It's not a bad idea. When flowing, the post is pushed down, then liquid covers the whole head of the post. If that head was previously exposed to the world, and/or has dried-up beer on it from previous use, then that can get into your serving lines, glass, growler, bottles, &c. If you have a spray bottle of star-san at the ready, it shouldn't be that ...


4

You might just need more time. I usually let mine go for 7-10 days total before. 5 days seems a little short to me even with your 30PSI upfront charge.


4

Option 1: Kegerator. Can be bought or built (google for DIY Kegerators and you will see many more options). Building gives you the option to find a fridge that fits into a random corner and holds the amount of kegs you require. Chest freezers (keezer) make great kegerators and they can still be a table. Option 2: Store the kegs in the attic, run pipes to ...


4

Hop residue will be a problem. Even if you use pellet hops, you will get clogs in the dip tube or valves when trying to purge the trub from the bottom of the keg. I know this from a disastrous keg-hopping experiment. You'll want to exclude hops when transferring the hot wort to the keg.


4

Cold crash to help sediment and compact yeast. Safely tip the carboy 10-15° so you can maximize beer extraction at the end of racking (I use a couple of paperbacks). Do any movement or tipping of your carboy hours before racking so any disturbance can re-settle. Very carefully lower your racking arm down into the sediment bed. Use some sort of spacer so the ...


4

If the dent doesn't effect the keg volume significantly I would leave it be. If you're familiar with how to repassify stainless you can try to hammer it out with an auto body palm hammer. Unless it was an "as is" purchase I would return them.


4

It really doesn't matter which you choose. 2 weeks is not so long that there will be a problem with leaving it. At the same time the gravity is reasonably close, it will be fine if you keg it. One thing that might help make the decision, did you dry-hop or use hops after the boil? If you did the flavors extracted there are more volatile. I would lean ...


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