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12

This screams out "mash water problem" to me. Anytime you go from good extract beers, to "bitter/astringent/chalky/burnt" flavors in all grain, you can bet your buns that its a mash water pH problem. Also, a mash pH of 5 sounds really low to me. I shoot for 5.5 on average. Water chemistry for all-grain is honestly the most "sciency" part of home brewing, and ...


9

The first temperature is of the water you are adding while the second is the expected temperature of the mash after it has been added. So by adding 12.81 qt of water at 163.7 F to the grain (presumably at room temp) the mixture should land around 152 F. Mashing out is an optional (though common) step that is meant to bring the mash above the temperature ...


9

The real answer is that it depends, but it certainly can. The things to consider: Temperature affects the rate of enzymatic reaction - higher temperatures will mean the reaction happens faster, so high temperature mashes reach their limits of fermentability faster (i.e. mashing at 154°F you are not likely to see much benefit from extending your rest from ...


8

You can make a flour from the grain, and follow any of the recipes listed here: Spent Grain Chef.


8

This answer to a similar question might be enlightening. In the case of a decoction mash, the tannins are not very soluble due to the low pH. It's really a combination of high temperatures and high pH that lead to extraction of tannins from the grain husks. The same would apply to a cereal mash. The more important factor, though, is that you'd generally ...


7

No, you really don't want to boil the entire mash--that would denature all the enzymes! You'd end up with a very starchy beer. With a traditional decoction mash, you typically wait 15 minutes, then pull 1/3 of the mash (a thick pull: mainly grain plus a little wort) to be boiled. The reason behind this: what's pulled contains relatively little enzymes, the ...


7

Putting 10.5kg of grain in 11.5 litres of water will kill your efficiency, unfortunately: From Braukaiser: Traditional British style infusion mashes are with about 2-2.5 l/kg (1 - 1.15 qt/lb) very thick and German style mashes are generally much thinner (3.5-5 l/kg / 1.75-2.5 qt/lb). Historically this is rooted in the fact that the latter needed to ...


7

At this point in the process, you're pretty much committed to letting the ferment continue to completion. With fruit wine, the usual course of action is to add meta-bisulphite to the juice or pulp, and leave it for 24 hours before adding the yeast. The sulphite reduces the activity of wild yeasts and bacteria, giving the brewer's yeast a head start. If the ...


6

First, keep in mind that Mr. wizard is a commercial brewer and his answers come from that point of view. It may not be applicable to homebrewers. Using wheat may be about the only case where using a protein rest may be of benefit. But it'a not a given. There are still proteolytic enzymes left in the malt. Due to the high protein content of wheat, it can ...


6

If you are batch sparging the rate has minimal impact of efficiency. If you are fly sparging in most certainly can have an effect, slower is usually better. Finding the balance between a speedy enough brew session and decent efficiency is a personal choice. Shooting for 75% is probably fine and some report getting better beer without pushing into the 80+% ...


6

Brewing textbooks I referred to universally state that the gap between the rollers of the mill needs to be much closer together for wet-milling. You don't mention making any adjustments, so I'll assume you didn't. Since the husk is made more elastic by conditioning, the dangers of pulverizing it with too tight a mill are eliminated, and in fact it may do a ...


6

In practice a nylon bag can become discoloured but it rarely gets so contaminated as to actually affect the flavour of a brew. As long as the bag is cleaned of all debris and thoroughly rinsed it should keep well. It is advisable to soak the bag in water soon after the grain is emptied out. If the bag becomes stained or clogged then soaking in a solution of ...


6

Excellent question, which I know every detail-focused brewer wonders about at some point. The reason we don't go up to alpha temperature right away and then drop down is that the beta enzyme denatures relatively very quickly above about 150°F (65.6°C). You could look into the actual science on this but in my estimation it seems the majority of beta ...


5

There is an efficiency difference - while a lot of the starch in caramel malts have been converted, there is still some remaining that can be extracted in a mash, but not in a steep. Also, the mash is typically done for longer than a steep, plus a sparge, which extracts more sugars from the grain. 30% extraction for a steep seems on the low side - but let's ...


5

Someone gave me a tip when I started that I followed, and it might make a difference for you. The grain bed is your best filter. Once you are done mashing you will sparge to separate the sugar from the grain. During this stage you want to make sure that the wort is running clear before you start collecting it. I use a pitcher to collect from the grain and I ...


5

The main gain with a doing a partial or full mash is control, and getting a fresh malt/grain taste in the beer. With extract, you get what you are given. You can alter some parameters, such as color and bitterness by blending different extracts and adding hops, but you get far more control when doing a mash. Also, you can mash ingredients that aren't ...


5

Clarity of wort has no bearing on the clarity of the finished beer. Beer clarity is much more dependent on things like proper pH and mash conversion an d a large amount of flour should have no effect. My crush is very fine with a large amount of flour and my efficiency ranges from 80-85%. Based on that, it's difficult to believe your wort loss is solely ...


5

Assuming you shoot for a saccharification rest around 65°C, the mash is heating up between ~1.4 and 1.8°C per minute. You'd make it through the 45-55° glucanase/protease range in ~5-7 minutes. I can't see this having a real effect on the wort composition, and I can't think of any other reason this technique would really make a difference. I'd say you'll be ...


5

Specifically no. You can't mash longer at the correct temperature to correct for the 30 minutes at a lower temp. It doesn't mean the beer isn't any good but the composition of the sugars are going to be different than if it was all done as you intended. That being said you probably won't even notice the difference in the finished beer. Your wort may be ...


5

As the other answers have stated, the malts are indeed different. As with all malts, they can vary between malt companies but these varieties are different regardless. Perhaps more importantly, Munich is a base malt that is provided by many maltsters, while CaraMunich seems to be a Weyermann product. As for the individual differences, I find that viewing ...


5

Based on what you provided. 11.76 lb grain 2.9 gal water 110f current temp. You would need to add. 3.8gal of 190°F water to reach 152°F in the mash. You need to use a mash Infusion calculator, not a strike water calculator. You added water weight to grain weight and used a strike water calculator. Which would instruct to add 3.8gal at 170f. ...


5

You could start with this question from this forum to know how to turn potatoes into a sugary solution fit for fermentation. Mind you, mashing not only means to mush the potatoes, but to add crushed barley malt and water. The crushed barley malt enzymes will turn the potato starches into sugars. Click on the tag "mash" to get more information. However, ...


4

This is an old thread, but I cannot believe no one answered to use the Brew in a Bag method which means you mash in your boil kettle. No extra vessel needed. You line your boil kettle with a mesh bag and when the mash is complete you remove the bag and all the grain. This is how I brew every time now, and I don't have to store the mash tun any more.


4

Just because your thermometer is accurate at freezing temps doesn't mean it's accurate at mash temps. You need to get a certified calibration thermometer and check it at mash temps, about 150F. It might not be your thermometer at all, but until you verify it at mash temp you just don't know.


4

If you are truly being that diligent about your mash temps and hydrometers including knowing they are accurate, the ONLY thing left is a contaminating wild yeast/bacteria driving down the residual gravity. Take a bottle of beer and put it in a warm attic for a week. Chill it down overnight and open it up in the sink as a precaution. If the beer is super ...


4

You've covered the two main likely causes, with stratification being the most significant cause of error. Another potential error is in the volume measurement - if this is out, then all the calculations to relate pre and post boil gravity will be out also. Related to that is the 4 percent shrinkage that happens as wort is chilled from boiling to pitching ...


4

I use either lactic or phosphoric acid to reduce pH. You can also use acid malt. I think the absolute best water calculator around is Bru'nwater (https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/). Its author, Martin Brungard, is a professional water engineer who has done work for many large breweries, including Sierra Nevada. It also has a great section on water ...


4

A friend in my brew club does this exact thing in his electric set up and has never had any issues. 100's of gallons of beer brewed, and no hiccups. Though, when dealing with high adjunct mashes, I would be extra careful and take whatever preventative measures you can (i.e. addition of rice hulls, etc.)


4

They are 2 different things. Specialty grains will have a direct impact on the flavor of the beer, with a secondary impact on body and mouthfeel. Mash time, temp, and process will have a primary impact on body and mouthfeel and secondarily on flavor. But specialty grains and mash manipulation can have large effects on the beer that will overlap to some ...


4

If your additional 1.12 gallons of 70F water can be considered free of heating time and cost, then we just need to compare the different quantities of water being heated and the temperature they are raised through: 2.82 gallons from 70F to 212F = 2.82 * (212-70) = 400.44 galF 4 gallons from 70F to 170F = 4 * (170-100) = 400 galF (I'm using non-standard ...


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