15
If the sanitizer was StarSan, then you'll be fine. At the usual concentration of 1oz per 5 gallons, it's safe - even safe enough to drink. StarSan is phosphoric acid and surfactants - coke is also largely phosphoric acid and sugar, so the two are in someways similar. In a radio program, Charlie Talley, 5 star chemicals allegedly drank a glass of starsan, ...
9
I give fermentation 4-5 days at 63°F, then bump up the temp to 70-72°F for maybe another 3 days. Then I crash to 33°F for 3-5 days until the beer clears.
7
What you're doing is lagering the beer, so it would have the same benefits it has for a lager beer. Beer deteriorates much more slowly at cold temperatures.
The only possible problem I know of is that after that much time you might not have enough yeast left in suspension to carbonate the beer in the bottle. If that's what you intend to do, it'd be a good ...
7
I am not sure exactly what you are defining as efficient, so I am going to answer this assuming time efficiency is your primary goal.
Denny's advice is good advice for a general approach without having to faff around checking things, and will ferment all but the largest brews to FG.
I would suggest you take daily samples and gravity readings. As soon as ...
6
It looks like the fermentation is complete, as the specific gravity has essentially stabilized. However, I'd leave it at 20C for another week at least to let the yeast clean up before cold-crashing. This is called the "conditioning phase", and can greatly improved the beer's flavour.
5
I cold crash (and fine with gelatin) at 30F for two or three days before kegging. I have found that 30F for two days clears my beer better than weeks at 38F in my refrigerator.
If you plan to bottle the beer, you might fear that you'll drop too much yeast out, leaving you with too little yeast to carbonate the beer. That isn't a concern. Plenty of beer has ...
5
Once you have cold crashed there will still be enough yeast to carb up your beer, given enough time.
I suggest leaving your beers in primary for your usual amount of time, but racking to secondary and leaving for a couple of days before you bottle, to allow any sediment kicked up in transfer to settle out.
If you are bottling with a few grams of sugar per ...
4
It does cold crash them, reducing activity to force them to flocculate and sediment out of solution. It does passivate them, generally shutting down their metabolism. It does not inactivate or destroy them, however; the yeast are still alive, just dormant. Bring them back up to pitching temperature and introduce them to fresh wort, and they will reproduce ...
4
If you are pitching healthy yeast into an appropriately made wort there is never a concern of off flavors from yeast. ALWAYS wait till the yeast is done. Done being checking first for the expected terminal gravity, THEN by taste. IF you have reached FG and it still tastes like it needs more time to clean up diacetyl and the like, leave it a little longer. ...
4
The difference in volumes of dissolved CO2 at 55 v. 63 is only 0.15 volumes; according to Section B.
That difference will be hardly noticable on the tongue or in the glass, and it certainly won't cause a bottle bomb situation. If anything the beer will be slightly overcarbed, which is better than under carbing.
I used to bottle for years before anyone ...
4
I routinely do this. Namely because of time constraints as well. My normal brewing process involves brewing once a month. So when brewing the next batch I am tending to the previous batch which was fermented and then crash for a month.
4
Sure, that's a good idea. Give it a week or 2 cold and it should clear up.
3
Yes, you have it. Normally you cold crash at the end of fermentation, before bottling. And a word of warning...if it was still outgassing heavily when you bottled it, it's likely fermentation wasn't finished. Bottles could explode. Keep it in a box in a closet, or somewhere safe.
3
It's certainly possible - a starter is only fermented to completion, but not conditioned, so byproducts of fermentation, such as acetaldehyde (green apple) and acetolactate (which becomes diacetyl - butter/butterscotch) are still left in the beer. This have low taste thresholds (50ppb for diacetyl), so it doesn't take much for you to notice then.
In a ...
3
The presence of yeasty dust in the bottle and some carbonation leads me to believe you can expect these to carbonate normally. I have lagered beer at controlled temps for at least 5 months and gotten successful bottle conditioning.
Issues holding yours back are likely the temp swings. Move the bottles to someplace closer to 70F and try and hold them there....
3
I think there are several reasons why cold crashing works, but they all come down to affecting various parts of the equation for drag (in other words, gravity is doing all of the work).
First, cold promotes early flocculation of yeast. Yeast clump together and form flocs as a survival reaction to adverse environmental conditions, with cold being one of ...
3
Looking around it seems that the answer is go with the 55 degrees. Because CO2 was dissolving into your beer even while it was cold crashing. So basically if you are going to prime at 55 degrees, use 55. But if you are going to let it warm up and then prime, then use that temperature (say 63 degrees you mentioned). Note that at 55 degrees it may take quite a ...
3
Cold crashing will definitely reduce the amount of yeast found in the bottle. And with less yeast in suspension there will be less floatables to reflect light, meaning your beer will appear darker than it would had you skipped cold crashing.
I agree with @cleber in that you definitely will need extra time to properly carb up your bottles but everything ...
3
Most of the time mead makers don't cold crash. Just let it sit and it will clear over time. If you want to speed it along look into wine fining agents.
2
I use gin as it is fine to drink if you accidentally suck it back through the airlock.
2
At the simplest level, cold crashing is about reducing any exothermic heat from yeast metabolism, since this causes convection and interferes with the sedimentation.
Cold crashing temperatures can (and should) be a good deal cooler than serving temps. Despite what is common practice, most, if not all beer, be served above ice-cold temperatures to properly ...
2
After 5 months of cold storage, there would but next to no viable yeast left in the beer. Store it for a couple more weeks, somewhere warm, and you may get lucky. If not, you'll want to remove the caps, add a couple grains of dry yeast to each bottle, and recap. Don't worry too much about oxygen, as the renewed fermentation should consume any oxygen that's ...
2
Wyeast 1272 American Ale II is has a flocculation level of medium.
You can get certainly clear beer from this yeast, you just need to give the yeast time to settle out. Cold crashing is a great way to do accelerate this process, 35F is fine, as close to freezing without freezing - how low you can go depends on how accurate your temp control is. Use a ...
2
The beer will clear with age, but will clear more quickly in cold conditions.
2
There's no need for an airlock. By the time you get to cold crashing, fermentation is done so the need for an airlock is gone. I seal the fermenter using a solid stopper before cold crashing.
2
It won't hurt anything for sure. It will work about how you'd expect, actually, your beer will clear up quicker than at room temperature but not as fast as if you could get it down to 35 F or wherever you'd cold crash at. Some things like chill haze, you won't get to settle out unless it's cold enough to actually see it.
50 F should be cold enough for ...
2
This is a valid way to do it.
There will be a slight amount of air and therefore oxygen sucked in, but not enough that I would worry about it.
2
You don't really need to rack to secondary. Just cold crash in your primary fermenter, and then be very careful not to suck up any yeast from the bottom when you transfer to your bottling bucket.
The way I do it is to position my siphon so the bottom is about 2/3 of the way down in my fermentation bucket. That way there's no risk of sucking up yeast. Once ...
2
Less bitterness - I would drop some of the interim hop additions, I would stick with the FWH just to reduce foaming, and I would eliminate the 40min 0.2oz and 20 min 0.45 oz additions.
If you want more flavour just up your dry hopping to get the flavours and aromas from the oils without the bitterness from the isomerised alpha acids.
And to further reduce ...
2
Regarding your question about yeast viability - it probably depends a little bit on how long you had the beer stored in the fridge, and how cold you stored it. Assuming you only had it stored for a few days, it's likely you will still have viable yeast left.
I also believe that you have not done any harm by warming your beer. The full keg of beer has quite ...
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