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The polyphenols in the hops bind the proteins in the beer to create fantastic foam. It's generally considered a very good thing. …

There's no harm to letting the beer go longer and at the very least the yeast will have more time to finish and clean up after itself. And if you want to, you can skip the secondary entirely. …

There's a recipe for peanut butter beer in my book. We recommend 12 oz. of PB2 powder, dissolved in 6 oz. of 150 proof spirits. … Let that sit for a few days, then put it in a keg and rack the beer onto it. Let it cold crash for a week, then rack the beer off the slurry into a fresh keg. …

brewer becomes more experienced and familiar with yeast, they may actually use a technique called "yeast harvesting," where they actually harvest "the dregs" from the bottom of a bottle to re-create a beer …

The beer gas (60/40) is likely at a higher pressure, so hooking a conventionally carbonated keg may (repeat, MAY) cause it to dispense with too much pressure and cause excessive foaming. … That might require reducing the serving pressure by adjusting the beer gas regulator. OTOH, it may not be a problem. I say try it and adjust accordingly if you have to. …

It's for craft beer lovers who want to drink beers they can't get otherwise, or who just want the freshness of making it themselves. I also have a Zymatic and a traditional cooler based system. …

I've been talking to Picobrew about this for years. Don't use the whole yeast pack. That's enough for 5 gallons. 1/2-1 tsp. of the yeast is plenty.

I'd add to be sure you can maintain a proper fermentation temp, also. High gravity beers have a propensity for throwing fusels, and if you don't keep the temp down it can exacerbate that.

IME, the best way to get maple flavor on the beer is to use maple extract. …

The usual problem is that a brewer will do a partial boil and top up the fermenter with water. Since wort, containing sugar, is heavier than water it will sink to the bottom of the fermenter. When y …

It carries a very small risk of harming the beer, so why bother? And I completely agree that fermentation temp and sanitation are about the 2 most critical aspects. …

In a nutshell, you brew a low OG beer (maybe in the 30s) then use amylase enzyme or something like Beano to get it to ferment out as much as possible to a very low FG, which will reduce residual sugars …

Most "conventional" homebrewing literature has you moving beer way to soon, IMO. You can almost never go wrong waiting longer. … You can easily wait a month or more for beer in the fermenter without harm. …

I will warn you to be leery of a lot of recipe sites on the internet. Some are good, some are very bad and you have to know what looks like a good recipe in order to separate them from the bad ones. …

In general, a short period of time in the 80s will not fatally damage beer, but the higher the temp and the longer the time of exposure, the worse it gets. …