I was reading online some suggestions to carbonate the batch of beer before bottling, and would like to get some details on quantities and method. I do love my home brewed beer, but I don't like the dregs in the bottle from adding sugar for carbonation before bottling.
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2The amount of dregs will be less if you get better at making wort with less solids in it, such as break material. Using a high flocculating yeast, an extended (14 day) primary, and a cold crash will leave less yeast in suspension. All this adds up (or subtracts) to less solids in the bottle. Thats just my advice, not an answer to the question.– brewchezCommented Jan 30, 2012 at 0:31
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4 Answers
To carbonate the batch, you need a sealed container that can withstand at least 60psi pressure. Many homebrewers use 5 gallon corny kegs. These are stainless containers, rated to 125psi and make it easy to either prime and naturally carbonate, or to force carbonate from a CO2 tank. Once carbonated, any sediment can be poured off in the first glass or two.
Most just leave it there and serve directly from the keg - but if you want to then bottle the beer, for taking to parties etc., you can do that using a counter pressure bottle filler/"beer gun", either bought or home made.
All in all, the kegs, disconnects, CO2 tank etc.. can end up costing upwards of $150 so this isn't a cheap option. But after bottling a couple of batches you might feel that life's too short to bottle, and the ease and convenience of kegging justifies the expense.
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1Yep, if you really can't stand the sediment in the bottles the ONLY way to get around that is to force carbonate a keg with C02, and then use a beer gun device to fill the bottles.– GHPCommented Jan 30, 2012 at 14:01
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Couldn't he avoid buying the CO2 and regulator by naturally carbonating in a keg? Then he'd just need the bottling apparatus. Commented Feb 1, 2012 at 23:31
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yes, he could, and I mention natural carbonation in my answer. But unless you've got a very tight fitting lid, you usually need a burst of co2 to hold the lid in place initially to get a hermetic seal - or the natural carb just leaks out.– mdmaCommented Feb 1, 2012 at 23:42
There is no way to avoid sediment in bottles if you prime your beer, whether you do it in bulk or per bottle. I prefer doing it in bulk. On average, I used 1 oz. of sugar for each gal. of beer. You can adjust that for your desired level of carbonation. Boil the sugar with as little water as possible. I usually use around a cup. Add it to the bottling bucket and rack your beer on to it. That helps with mixing it thoroughly. Give it a gentle stir with a sanitized spoon. Don't stir so hard that you add air to the beer. Bottle as normal.
answered Jan 29, 2012 at 18:13
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I'm pretty sure the OP asked about bulk carbonation not bulk priming Commented Feb 1, 2012 at 23:32
As an alternative, there is an Australian company that makes a special cap that traps the sediment:
http://sedexbrewing.com/index.html
I haven't used them myself, but there is a YouTube review here
If you google "priming sugar calculator" (I believe its Tastybrew.com) has a simple priming sugar calculator, and you can customize by BJCP style. For instance a porter is going to have less carbonation than a weiss, which will have less than a saison. You will need a kitchen scale, but these are a GREAT pickup even if you brew seldomly.
Also, I DO NOT CARE what all the forums say, I can tell the difference between beer primed with corn sugar (glucose - simpler sugar) and beers primed with table sugar (sucrose - more complex chain). Have not done a straight side by side, so it could have been another process flaw. All I know is the two beers I primed with cane sugar were the worst I made and were not carbed properly.
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1Try splitting a batch and priming 1/2 with corn sugar and 1/2 with cane. Be sure to use 5% more cane. Wait 4-6 weeks, then do a blind triangle tasting. If you can tell which is which at that point, I'll buy ya a beer! Commented Jan 31, 2012 at 23:53
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