10

BYO has a pretty good, brief article on what yeast nutrient provides for your beer, as well as whether or not it's necessary. To summarize for you, wort by itself is pretty rich in nutrient, and may not need yeast nutrient, especially if you re-pitch yeast from a previous batch (proper amounts of slurry, of course). The one nutrient that is not present in ...


6

Hibiscus contains hydroxycitric acid. I suspect it had a reaction to metal elements in the yeast nutrient. The product looks like iron chloride in solution to me.


5

You see this mostly in wine, cider and mead making because those sources of fermentable sugars lack some of the nutrients needed by yeast for proper fermentation, which are usually present in malt-based worts. They are (aside from fermentable sugars): Amino acids/nitrogen - All-malt worts supply plenty of readily assimilable nitrogen. This is a big need ...


5

Also keep in mind that mead long predates yeast nutrients. The old Greek formula went something like: Put three parts water and one part honey in an amphora in the sun for a few days. Enjoy. That must have been some sweet, syrupy mead. However, the point is that if you can't get the yeast nutrients, you can always try brewing mead without them. FWIW I ...


5

you can boil half a sachet of yeast and add that to the must. It provides many of the trace elements needed by the yeast, but I'm not sure how much nitrogen it provides, which is the key nutrient required in mead. If the mead is not very strong, you can in fact successfully ferment without nutrient, just pitch 50% extra yeast.


4

For starter wort you can use the 1/2 tsp and a sachet of yeast hulls, although I usually double this, just to make sure the yeast have all they need. I've even used 1/2 tsp in a single 1 quart starter with no ill effects. The yeast hulls are necessary since they contain trace elements that are essential for the yeast. The diammonium phosphate is only ...


4

Smack packs contain yeast nutrients, and sugars nothing magical. Its just a mini starter in a bag for proofing yeast for direct pitching. Don't need it at all If doing your own starter. If you do all grain your wort has all the nutrients it needs. Sounds like your 1st stage went fine. I would just step up as normal. At the risk of infection just throw the ...


3

Banana does have a couple of the nutrients yeast needs. Potassium, folic acid, magnesium etc. Most fruits lack FAN though. That being said bananas wouldn't be a complete replacement for a yeast nutrient product.


3

I can't reach the website from here, but when I search for "does turbo yeast need nutrients" I get a reference stating: Each Turbo Yeast contains a mix of yeast and nutrients, to make 25 L of Wash which would imply that this is tuned to the purpose and that you do not need to add any further nutrients.


3

I currently suggest two things. The first is to check your SG ALSO with a hydrometer. If it has the same readings as your refractometer, there is definitely something off. Also, do you use a refractometer calculator to convert your readings? A refractometer works on the diffraction of light through a drop of fluid. There is a big difference between wort (...


3

You're right that dead yeast is a good nutrient for live yeast. The growth medium used for yeast in the lab is YE (yeast extract) plus some sugar. This plan will probably provide some nutrition to the yeast, and work out OK for a few batches, but I think that problems will crop up. You won't actually make yeast extract. Yeast extract is made inducing '...


3

I first saw this method in The Compleat MeadMaker by Ken Schramm. It seems northern-brewer-chris also uses a method that's similar. Ever since I read this, I've been practicing it and I've never looked back. I can finish a clean (not hot) mead fermentation in 6-8 weeks now instead of the accepted, ambiguous "months". I still spend a good bit of time aging ...


3

I wouldn't think of these things necessarily food safe. I wouldn't be adding something like this to my beer/mead without knowing what other substances are in it. You are overthinking the oxygenation/aeration process. Aside from using a small O2 tank and stone; people are making excellent mead by simply agitating the must during transfer and/or shaking the ...


3

The most common nutrients for mead making, DAP and Fermaid-K or -O, come in powder form. Adding a tsp of each to a 5-gallon batch of mead and mixing well is all it takes. If you see the nutrient doesn't dissolve well you can pre mix it with a little clean water (1/4cup) before adding it in. A normal nutrient regimen is to add small amounts of nutrients (...


2

When I make Mead I use brown sugar about 2 table spoons in 10 Liters of honey water mix. I also put light malt into the mix at about 3 parts honey to 1 of Malt. Works well every time. I was looking for natural nutrients and the brown sugar and malt are doing the trick. You can put in more brown sugar if you want.


2

A type of yeast nutrient that I use when I am making hard apple cider uses raisins. Get about 100g of raisins in a saucepan with water that covers them by an inch. Bring them to the boil then simmer them. While simmering mash then to a paste and make a raisin tea. Let it cool and add it to your brew. Make sure the raisins are all natural with no sulphites ...


2

Wort is what determines fermentability in general, not yeast. Almost any ale yeast can easily ferment a 10+% beer. But if you don't make a fermentable wort, the yeast doesn't matter. Many times extract beers are less fermentable due to the way the extract is made. An all grain beer mashed at a high temperature or with large amounts of less fermentable ...


2

5.8% ABV is not considered "higher gravity". There should be no problem S-04 or most any dry or liquid yeast up until closer to 10% ABV. It sounds like your fermentation is either stuck or simply not complete. When did you brew? What size packet of S-04? Did you pitch the whole packet? What fermentation temperature? Did you do anything for aeration/...


2

It's generally recommended that you decant starter wort before pitching. As long as you do that, it doesn't seem you should get any off flavors from it. I simply put some foil loosely over the top of the jug I make starters in.


2

I'd do the packet. I suppose you run the risk of over pitching, but unlikely. Make sure you rehydrate if the instructions tell you to. On the nutrient, I'd just do a teaspoon. Looks like some people advocate one teaspoon per gallon.


2

Servomyces is simply dead yeast. Prior to being killed, it was fed micronutrients which have been stored in the yeast. There's no harm pitching more into your starter, assuming you then later pitch to 5 gallons or more. If your starter yeast don't use all the nutrients, your main brew certainly will, so there's no harm pitching the entire capsule. The White ...


2

Monoammonium phosphate and diammonium phosphate contain all the same chemical compounds (phosphate ions, ammonium ions, and hydrogen ions), the major difference is that MAP has a second hydrogen in place of the ammonium. So, if you buy food grade stuff, it should be totally safe to consume, however, pH is determined by those hydrogen ions, so your wine may ...


2

I have found that the colour of Hybiscus is pH sensitive. At low pH it is red and at higher pH it will turn purple.


2

Unlikely and it will cost a hell of lot more chasing down the ingredients to put together your own yeast nutrients. I have been brewing for 25 year and have never used them. I had problems brewing when I first started but those were rookie mistakes. If you have enough yeast and wort and oxygen, there shouldn't be anything that stops your yeast from ...


2

Really depends on the apple juice which depends on the soil the trees are grown. I've done size-by-side tests on 1 gallon batches with and without 1/4 tsp each of yeast nutrients (DAP, ammonium sulfate) & 'energizer' using commercial filtered apple juice. Using 1g Lalvin EC-1118 in each, they both fermented fine in the same time and the taste was ...


2

Yes, cider needs a lot of nutrients for healthy yeast growth. Here's a couple ways to get around adding nutrients. Full pitch of yeast. This basically skips a growth phase be case all the needed yeast is there. Usually done by racking juice on top of your last batches yeast trub. Malted Cider in a 50/50 blend wort/Apple juice. This will give yeast all ...


2

As long as you have a suitable supply of yeast nutrients, you can certainly grow non-beer-based yeast cultures for whatever use you need them for. Saccharomyces yeast cultures need the following for successful growth: Assimilable nitrogen. Without a steady supply, yeast can't synthesize protein required for reproduction. Various yeast nutrients can supply ...


2

My initial guess was the Campden tablet's SO2 was the culprit and hunting around for similar stories I found this on a home brew forum: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=267418 Observations in this thread would seem to fit with what you have experienced.


2

As a counterpoint, I've done mead batches with zero nutrients, and batches with different levels of nutrients, with success each time. So far I've only used diammonium phosphate (DAP) and Wyeast yeast nutrient in the primary. I've never done additional mixing, and I've never added nutrients partway through the primary, and only recently have I ever added ...


2

You have to use an hydrometer to measure gravity if you want to know what is going on. Foam and airlock bubbling activity is not a precise indication of an active fermentation. Measure gravity before fermentation, and then every 3 days. Usually, 3 days in a row of stable gravity means fermentation is done (or stuck!). When fermentation is done, there is ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible