Hot answers tagged

9

To quote from http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_oxygenation.cfm: It was concluded that pumping compressed air through a stone is not an efficient way to provide adequate levels of DO. Traditional splashing and shaking, although laborious, is fairly efficient at dissolving up to 8 ppm oxygen. To increase levels of oxygen, the carboy headspace can be purged with ...


9

I always thought of this as being a HUGE no no. But I guess not...below is from John Palmer. People often wonder about adding ice directly to the cooling wort. This idea works well if you remember a couple key points. Never use commercial ice. It can harbor dormant bacteria that could spoil your beer. Always boil the water before freezing it in ...


9

This technique of holding back the extract until the end of the boil is a fairly new concept that's caught on in the last few years. Here's some reasons why its a good idea in general: Faster time from the start of the boil to the 1st hop addition Less chance of a boil over Less caramalization/Mailiard reactions of the extract (leading to lighter colored ...


8

Absolutely not a problem. You will gain just a bit of extra bitterness by boiling longer, but so little that I doubt you could notice it.


8

After 9 days, primary is pretty close to done if not already complete. Yeast activity is starting to slow anyways. The 10° drop to 59° May have caused the yeast to floculate and settle down (cold crash) prematurely. Warm it back up 2° an hour and give the fermentor a gentle swirl to get yeast back into suspension. All in all, you didn't hurt anything. ...


8

This is a type of counter flow chiller. The manufacturer should have some specs on it. Mainly what the heat exchange efficiency is at specific GPMs. For example 100% eff at 1gpm wort and 1gpm coolant. Would mean the wort and coolant exit at the same temperature. All chillers of this type can get 100% efficiency but the flow may have to be so low it's ...


7

No, there is nothing necessarily wrong about using topping off water to cool your wort. But there normally isn't enough topping off water to cool the wort to pitching temperature by itself without applying an additional cooling method (the math is below). One reason to cool quickly to ideal yeast-pitching temp is to allow the yeast to get a nice head start ...


6

I use a large noodle strainer. place the stainer at the opening of the ale pail and steadily poor the wort through the stainer into the bucket. Then I just lift the stainer and throw away the trub.


6

I would get the wort into the fermenter with the yeast and then carefully transport it. Then you don't have to worry about the wort getting contaminated as much due to the airlock on the fermenter. The head space should be able to handle the sloshing from moving it (I am assuming that this is in a car). I would just make sure that it isn't going to go ...


6

Too soon. Don't sweat it. I bet it will lighten up as it ferments and yeast and trub drop.


6

You'll be fine, as long as there isn't some obvious source contaminating the snow - like if it's actually falling off of a tree or roof and not coming directly from the clouds. Snow is basically freeze distilled so it's pretty clean. I suppose if it's coming down very hard and several inches of snow fall in there it could it could dilute it a little bit, ...


6

Your hydrometer has been calibrated to give readings at a specific temperature. Depending on the temp when you first read it and the temp after cooling a two point difference is not that surprising. If you look closely at the hydrometer, it will tell you the calibration temperature of your hydrometer. They are normally done somewhere around 60, 65 or 68F. ...


6

The sludge is mostly coagulated proteins, hop residue. A little bit is actually good for your wort, as it provides nutrients for the yeast. Too much might give the beer some slight off flavours. If you were to let the sludge into the fermenter, it wouldn't be the end of the world, but you'll make better beer if your exclude most of it. So, to answer your ...


6

If you are batch sparging the rate has minimal impact of efficiency. If you are fly sparging in most certainly can have an effect, slower is usually better. Finding the balance between a speedy enough brew session and decent efficiency is a personal choice. Shooting for 75% is probably fine and some report getting better beer without pushing into the 80+% ...


6

Your beer will probably be fine. Yes, your arm probably left some bacteria in the wort, but the wort is also picking up a few bacteria from the air. Cooled wort has some bacteria and/or wild yeast. But if those numbers are few compared to the number of yeast cells, then the yeast will start eating, creating an environment less friendly to bacteria. The ...


6

"This means that the initial metabolism will be aerobic. Aerobic metabolism of sugar yields no alcohol, but still reduces the gravity." Well, actually this isn't true in virtually all fermentation situations involving Saccharomyces yeasts. S. cerevisiae is what is known as Crabtree-positive, i.e. it experiences the Crabtree effect. What this means is that,...


5

I leave everything in until after the wort is chilled. If I use pellet hops, they go through the pump and into the fermenter. In over 400 batches done like this, it hasn't caused any problems.


5

There is no guarantee that spring water, especially if you collected it from a spring, is free of bacteria. But spring water is often super filtered or pasteurized and is much more likely to be free of contaminants. That said, I used to put my couple jugs of water in the fridge the night before. When I started the boil, I put the jugs in the freezer. That ...


5

I suspect the line about higher efficiency leading to off flavors came to be because there are certain situations during a mash where if you over-sparge and your pH drops too low, then you can extract tannins and thus get some off flavors. So what happens was that some guys were over-sparging, which WILL increase your efficiency, and were noticing the ...


5

Yep, you've got it. I've seen it and had it happen many times before I started doing full boils. Even when you think you've got it well mixed, you probably haven't! Since you use extract, it's going to be more accurate to calculate the OG than measure it.


5

This is how I do all of my brews. I usually boil about 11/12L for a 20/21L batch, put a filter over the primary bucket, pour the wort in from a bit of a height to help aerate, add ice until I get the right temperature then top up with water. The "right temperature" might be a couple of degrees above / below target, depending on whether the top up water is ...


5

I also have had a similar issue. I switched bags from the handmade swiss voile to one I bought at a homebrew shop which had wider mesh. What happened was pretty disturbing. The beer was suddenly full of fine material which was boiling up and creating a very nasty mess on the side of the pot. I cleaned this crap out several times as it built up over the ...


5

I do this about once or twice a year. I'm an all grain brewer, so I typically just brew a batch of base malt. You can do the same with buying some DME/LME and adding that to the right amount of water to get the SG around 1.035-1.040. Your process sounds good, although I would probably blend all the DME and water at once so you can check the SG, and then ...


5

You don't need to stir regularly. Hops, pellet or otherwise, do float around pretty freely. I have never heard of hops sticking to the bottom of the pot, nor has it ever happened to me. I only stir occasionally to get that hop crud of the sides of the pot above the boil line back into the pot. And I stir to manage the foam early on in the process. ...


5

Reboiling will increase bitterness of all the hops that went in 'late' in the kettle. Obviously, as you said you'll lose your aroma charge will decrease in proportion to the length of the reboil. You may likely increase the maillard profile of the malt character depending on how long you boil. The complexity of the original grist will dictate the extent ...


5

Everything I see there looks normal. Green floaties, just hops. Clean surface, no pellicile starting. Some bubbles, c02 still being produced.


5

Although we need more information to be more specific, the general answer to "how much wort should be left behind" is "as little as possible". One thing you can do is pour the wort through a sanitized strainer and press the hops with a sanitized spoon to extract the wort in them. Also, once the wort is cooled down, you can simply pour it through a strainer ...


5

The strategy for getting the most wort into the fermenter is to dump it all in. Everything, hops and everything. I don't scrape the stickies off the wall of the pot, but I tip the whole thing into the fermenter. I generally aim for none wort to be left in the pot. It will make good beer. If you're not comfortable with that, the strainer idea is fantastic ...


4

As a professional beer brewing equipment manufacturer,we would like to make a detailed clarification for the device "wort grant" here. The wort grant is generally being installed between the lauter tun and brew kettle. Its position is generally lower than the wort level in the tank, so during lautering, the wort could flow into the wort grant automatically ...


4

I also wants to share my experience with this device (Lauter grant). Actually I am chemical engineer and working in brewery designing company. Advantages of Lauter grant: It acts as buffer tank between lauter tun and wort kettle. It gives positive suction to transfer pump (full flow) Main advantage of later grant is: it avoid choking bed. as it avoid ...


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