5

It will always work, the difference is how much time we save or not. My 25' 1/4" wort chiller works better than I expected, 15 minutes to cool 5 gallons. Your 30' 3/8" should work very well, 15 to 20 minutes maximum I would guess.


4

Ya know what? In reality, it just doesn't matter. I drop the same old funky immersion chiller I've been using for years into the wort. Then I take the output hose from my pump and clamp it to the side of the kettle, pointing kinda sideways below wort level. It's equally as effective as a friend's setup that's similar to a couple of your designs. Don't ...


4

I stop chilling my ales when the surface temp/outlet pipe is about 21 degrees C. It takes me about 40 minutes to chill 50 litres from boiling 100C down to 21C, so I guess in total I give the beer about an hour to settle after the boil is finished before draining into the ferm bins. Cheers!


3

No unless the 25' is the maximum submerged surface area possible. Even then a 50' half submerged would only function as 25' anyways. Half the length of tubing would never be twice as effecient of a tubing with same diameter and liner surface area. Ideally you will have as much submerged surface area as possible. That being said. If the temperature of the ...


3

In my experience, I never get a trub cone with the chiller in place. And I don't think you will. Too much turbulence as the wort whirlpools for a nice clean pot centered cone of trub. Of course the turbulence leads to great chilling via a great turnover of wort volume and surface area contact with the chiller. I only get a nice cone in a standard pot ...


3

I've heard most people shooting for ten minutes of chill time to get below that 60C mark. You're doing it better than that so that's cool (no pun intended). If you can agitate the wort around the coils you'll go that much faster. When I used an immersion chiller I used to pass my wort through a pump back into the kettle while chilling (recirculation ...


2

It's a fine idea. The nice thing about the "traditional" approach is that the surfaces that touch the wort are exposed, easily cleaned, and can be inspected for cleanliness. Plus, as someone commented, you'll need a pump to move the wort through the IC, which is another complication and something else to clean. For a long time, I did something similar (and ...


2

The easiest and cheapest solution is to either use hop bags/socks or build a hop bag hanger which is also known as a hop spider and other names. Google for those and you'll find some simple, easy designs you can build with a quick trip to the hardware store. If you have a Blichman kettle, you can try the Hop Blocker. Keep in mind that this is only designed ...


2

Unless you have sewer problems now, I don't see how you would run in to trouble. It's pretty much like running your kitchen sink for 45 minutes. Your water supply should be pressurized by your service provider.


2

I've seen pros store sanitizer in the plate chiller, just pump it in and cap it. Then when you push wort through, you simply wait for it to push the sanitizer out, as far as gross debris, PBW and some Really hot water does the trick for everything else.


2

Summary: Immersion chillers have diminishing returns on length. The first foot of tube does more work than any other foot of tube. The last foot does the least. An immersion chiller is a specific example of a device called a heat exchanger. As an engineer I took classes in heat transfer and heat exchanger design. Although I can explain exactly why ...


2

First this: How to Brew: Brewing Metallurgy Apparently, there should be no problem in using a copper chiller in your fermenting beer. Make sure there is no oxidation before you use your cooler.


2

How are you assembling it? If you're just dropping the coil into hot water for its HERMS function, then there's no reason you couldn't dump it into hot wort with cold water running through it to chill. If, on the other hand, you're mounting the coil permanently into the hot water bath for the HERMS, then you're going to have a hard time chilling with it. ...


2

If you're concerned with the oxidation effecting the wort. Simply give it a 5 minute starsan soak before using, it will be bright and shinny. Yeast actually use a little copper as nutrients.


2

I think that the acidity does not have an influence on copper, but it does on copper oxidation, which you do not want in your beer. Always clean and dry your chiller very well, and store it dry so that it does not oxidise (turns green).


2

No. The comparatively low pH will not leach the copper in any appreciable way into a wort solution.


1

brewchez's last option is worth your while investigating. Living in dry dry Australia (well, much of it is), I have found it necessary to no-chill, and have done so for about 5 years with no failures. Try it. If you don't like the results, you can always look at the other options.


1

Many people use the pond pump and ice water technique. People normally use store bought ice by the bag. Ice packs for beach cooler's tend to absorb heat slower than ice and probably don't work great in this set up. To be more efficient about ice usage, you can use tap water for knocking the temp down from 212F/100C but several tens of degress. Collect ...


1

Long ago- I used regular hosing for this similar thing (And assuredly many homebrewers do) and it was ~fine. The hose will degrade a bit over time at those temps- but as long as the water from it wasn't ever getting consumed, it never bothered me. The hose however never just melted flat out when running the chiller, but it did get a bit soft. The only issue ...


1

Most likely it will turn out just fine, but you did add risk of infection keeping the lid off for a while. In future you should keep the lid on it, just to keep any wild organisms from flying into the beer and causing infection. I myself will often brew in the evening then let the beer cool overnight, with the LID ON, then pitch the yeast the next morning, ...


1

In theory yes, but for most if not all homebrewers it's technically not feasible. Why? The total heat exchange, in this case, is a sum of heat exchanged by conduction and convection. The conduction part, roughly saying, is only a function of coil material , temperature difference between the surface and the bulk fluid (dT), surface area and specific heat ...


1

Shouldn't be a problem but I'd prepare in advance how I'd empty that hose once I am done. Don't want to be dealing with that disaster as I am trying to deal with the wort at the same time. If possible why not just bring the kettle down to the utility sink and hooking the chiller up down there may be a better option.


1

I agree with Denny that it should not matter much in reality, but in theory at least I'd say that the sparse coil may be the favored option. The effectiveness of your chiller depends (amongst other factors) on the steepness of the heat gradient or, if you will, the temperature contrast between the chiller and the immediately surrounding liquid. The larger ...


1

There are more advantages to a fast chill than just to stop DMS production. Cold break for chill haze reduction, immediate pitching, lower risk of infection to name a couple. As far as your times. Faster is always better. Best I've done is about 30 minutes to 20°c/68°f pitching temp. But that's using whirlpool and iced water. Boil to 100°F happens in the ...


1

While the principal is sound, it has major flaws for wort chilling. Major difference is volume and temp differences. 12oz / 5gal, 75°-38° / 212°-70° Convection works on the principal that heat transfer is at a finite rate. So give the small area cooling source more exposure by moving away what has been cooled. All brew chillers do this in different ways. ...


1

I think using it as-is would probably be a waste of time, as already mentioned. One big question that comes to mind is how you'd get it in the water cooler without lots of splashing (and therefore oxidation). If you were willing to modify it to recirculate the wort into the top of the water cooler you might be able to get something usable but without some ...


1

I'm pretty sure most water coolers only chill a few servings of water at a time. And they are only dropping about 30° below ambient temp. Sanitation aside I think the chilling abilities of a water cooler would quickly be defeated by hot wort. I don't think it's worth an experiment.


1

25 min is not too bad, you can reduce flow rate, to increase transfer time but this adds time to your brew day. Or you can use colder water if you get your counter-flow water down to 40F then you will either be able to increase the flow rate or reduce the temperature of your wort. You don't want to pump the wort for 2 reasons: 1. will likely increase flow ...


1

The first pump you tried is probably just underpowered. The first one I tried was just a little more powerful than that one, and it barely gets the job done on my 20-foot, 3/8-inch copper wort chiller. The one you linked to looks much more capable, but I'd be concerned about the operating temperature range. It lists a minimum operating temperature of 40F. ...


1

I also use a CFC and use whole hops with a false bottom in the BK. If you want to keep using pellets, you could use a bazooka screen and whirlpool, but you'll leave more wort behind.


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