8

You don't want to clean a copper chiller so it is shiny - if you remove the dull color (stable oxide), the metal is more likely to react and form the toxic blue-green oxide (verdigris). http://byo.com/stories/projects-and-equipment/item/1144-metallurgy-for-homebrewers Copper is relatively inert to both wort and beer. With regular use, it will build up ...


5

It will always work, the difference is how much time we save or not. My 25' 1/4" wort chiller works better than I expected, 15 minutes to cool 5 gallons. Your 30' 3/8" should work very well, 15 to 20 minutes maximum I would guess.


4

Ya know what? In reality, it just doesn't matter. I drop the same old funky immersion chiller I've been using for years into the wort. Then I take the output hose from my pump and clamp it to the side of the kettle, pointing kinda sideways below wort level. It's equally as effective as a friend's setup that's similar to a couple of your designs. Don't ...


4

I stop chilling my ales when the surface temp/outlet pipe is about 21 degrees C. It takes me about 40 minutes to chill 50 litres from boiling 100C down to 21C, so I guess in total I give the beer about an hour to settle after the boil is finished before draining into the ferm bins. Cheers!


3

No unless the 25' is the maximum submerged surface area possible. Even then a 50' half submerged would only function as 25' anyways. Half the length of tubing would never be twice as effecient of a tubing with same diameter and liner surface area. Ideally you will have as much submerged surface area as possible. That being said. If the temperature of the ...


3

I've heard most people shooting for ten minutes of chill time to get below that 60C mark. You're doing it better than that so that's cool (no pun intended). If you can agitate the wort around the coils you'll go that much faster. When I used an immersion chiller I used to pass my wort through a pump back into the kettle while chilling (recirculation ...


3

In my experience, I never get a trub cone with the chiller in place. And I don't think you will. Too much turbulence as the wort whirlpools for a nice clean pot centered cone of trub. Of course the turbulence leads to great chilling via a great turnover of wort volume and surface area contact with the chiller. I only get a nice cone in a standard pot ...


3

Some people say that it's better to include the IC in your boil (if it's copper) as the copper gives off micronutrients (namely zinc) as well as providing a nucleation point which reduces the chance of boilovers. See Pennies in the Boil


2

After every 10 or so brews, I soak mine in powdered brewery wash (PBW), goes in with a rainbow of colors comes out looking like new. Plus, no elbow grease required.


2

As long as it isn't rusted and/or leaking, you're probably fine. If it were me, I'd take some polish to it and make sure to rinse it thoroughly afterwards just to be certain. You may not have to, but my perfectionism would scream at me for any mistakes in the flavor of the beer, even if it had nothing to do with the chiller. I vividly remember having to ...


2

I have a copper wort-chiller as well, but before I had it, I used ice to cool my beer. I would sterilize Pyrex glass containers, and put boiled-and-cooled water in them, and into the freezer a few days before brewing. I would put the pot in a sink full of cold water, and put the ice from the container into the pot (not the whole container). I just topped ...


2

I've seen pros store sanitizer in the plate chiller, just pump it in and cap it. Then when you push wort through, you simply wait for it to push the sanitizer out, as far as gross debris, PBW and some Really hot water does the trick for everything else.


2

It's a fine idea. The nice thing about the "traditional" approach is that the surfaces that touch the wort are exposed, easily cleaned, and can be inspected for cleanliness. Plus, as someone commented, you'll need a pump to move the wort through the IC, which is another complication and something else to clean. For a long time, I did something similar (and ...


2

The easiest and cheapest solution is to either use hop bags/socks or build a hop bag hanger which is also known as a hop spider and other names. Google for those and you'll find some simple, easy designs you can build with a quick trip to the hardware store. If you have a Blichman kettle, you can try the Hop Blocker. Keep in mind that this is only designed ...


2

It's fine to boil the chiller for a few minutes to sanitize it. Just make sure you give the chiller a good cleaning in acetic acid prior to its first use, as per Palmer's advice.


2

Unless you have sewer problems now, I don't see how you would run in to trouble. It's pretty much like running your kitchen sink for 45 minutes. Your water supply should be pressurized by your service provider.


2

How are you assembling it? If you're just dropping the coil into hot water for its HERMS function, then there's no reason you couldn't dump it into hot wort with cold water running through it to chill. If, on the other hand, you're mounting the coil permanently into the hot water bath for the HERMS, then you're going to have a hard time chilling with it. ...


2

If you're concerned with the oxidation effecting the wort. Simply give it a 5 minute starsan soak before using, it will be bright and shinny. Yeast actually use a little copper as nutrients.


2

I think that the acidity does not have an influence on copper, but it does on copper oxidation, which you do not want in your beer. Always clean and dry your chiller very well, and store it dry so that it does not oxidise (turns green).


2

No. The comparatively low pH will not leach the copper in any appreciable way into a wort solution.


2

Summary: Immersion chillers have diminishing returns on length. The first foot of tube does more work than any other foot of tube. The last foot does the least. An immersion chiller is a specific example of a device called a heat exchanger. As an engineer I took classes in heat transfer and heat exchanger design. Although I can explain exactly why ...


2

First this: How to Brew: Brewing Metallurgy Apparently, there should be no problem in using a copper chiller in your fermenting beer. Make sure there is no oxidation before you use your cooler.


1

In theory yes, but for most if not all homebrewers it's technically not feasible. Why? The total heat exchange, in this case, is a sum of heat exchanged by conduction and convection. The conduction part, roughly saying, is only a function of coil material , temperature difference between the surface and the bulk fluid (dT), surface area and specific heat ...


1

Shouldn't be a problem but I'd prepare in advance how I'd empty that hose once I am done. Don't want to be dealing with that disaster as I am trying to deal with the wort at the same time. If possible why not just bring the kettle down to the utility sink and hooking the chiller up down there may be a better option.


1

There are more advantages to a fast chill than just to stop DMS production. Cold break for chill haze reduction, immediate pitching, lower risk of infection to name a couple. As far as your times. Faster is always better. Best I've done is about 30 minutes to 20°c/68°f pitching temp. But that's using whirlpool and iced water. Boil to 100°F happens in the ...


1

While the principal is sound, it has major flaws for wort chilling. Major difference is volume and temp differences. 12oz / 5gal, 75°-38° / 212°-70° Convection works on the principal that heat transfer is at a finite rate. So give the small area cooling source more exposure by moving away what has been cooled. All brew chillers do this in different ways. ...


1

I think using it as-is would probably be a waste of time, as already mentioned. One big question that comes to mind is how you'd get it in the water cooler without lots of splashing (and therefore oxidation). If you were willing to modify it to recirculate the wort into the top of the water cooler you might be able to get something usable but without some ...


1

I'm pretty sure most water coolers only chill a few servings of water at a time. And they are only dropping about 30° below ambient temp. Sanitation aside I think the chilling abilities of a water cooler would quickly be defeated by hot wort. I don't think it's worth an experiment.


1

25 min is not too bad, you can reduce flow rate, to increase transfer time but this adds time to your brew day. Or you can use colder water if you get your counter-flow water down to 40F then you will either be able to increase the flow rate or reduce the temperature of your wort. You don't want to pump the wort for 2 reasons: 1. will likely increase flow ...


1

The first pump you tried is probably just underpowered. The first one I tried was just a little more powerful than that one, and it barely gets the job done on my 20-foot, 3/8-inch copper wort chiller. The one you linked to looks much more capable, but I'd be concerned about the operating temperature range. It lists a minimum operating temperature of 40F. ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible