7

Relax. It sounds like fermentation is proceeding normally. The 3-inch scum ring is the krausen and is a sign of a healthy fermentation - a foam head wouldn't last 3 days. Your airlock is probably not air-tight so you don't see any activity. It's quite common - I've had this on a couple of brews. Take a hydrometer reading in a couple of days, and you should ...


7

The problem is yeast, not unfermentables. Unless you made a starter, 1 pack for a 1.090 beer is way underpitching, assuming you made 5 gal. A single pack might work for 1 gal. at that gravity, but not 5. Also, a 1.010 FG for a 1.090 beer would make it very thin and bodiless. There is no accurate way to calculate FG.


7

At what temperature did you eventually mashed? Not sure how it works out with BIAB, but adding grains to a regular mash (even less volume compared to BIAB), the temperature only drops a few °C's. My guess is that if you added the grains at 80°C, you mashed at around 76/77°C. This is way too high, but 72°C is also too high. Mash temps range from 62-70C°, ...


6

Measure the gravities of the brews. Since you said you've got them in buckets, I'm going to assume you haven't looked inside them to see if you had krausen or anything like that on top. With the buckets, it's entirely possible you didn't have a perfect seal on one of the buckets, so the CO2 escaped out somewhere besides the airlock. I know my first batch ...


6

Mistake 1, really doesn't matter all will be fine. You may end up with a little more bitterness extraction, but is has been reported that FWH can lead to a more mellow bitterness. I really would not worry at all. Mistake 2, not really all should be fine You would get a cleaner flavour profile if you had used 2 packets of yeast,but your yeast should be ...


5

Well 1010 is likely not attainable as that would be around 80% attenuation. You are currently at ~66% attenuation. If you've roused the yeast I'd give it until at least 14 days, but a 1070 OG to me would warrant 21 days. I am a patient brewer however. The bucket is full of CO2 so gently swirl away until you think the yeast is sufficiently roused. Give ...


5

Pitching yeast directly into wort is not a good idea - it reduces the viability by at least half for normal strength wort, and presumably even more for higher gravity or higher alcohol worts. You have a lot of yeast in this brew, presumably dead or dying, so I would consider racking soon to avoid picking up a yeast bite in the beer. A schedule like this ...


5

Firstly, stop opening it, you looking at it isn't going to make anything good happen and could potentially lead to an infection. Try to get it somewhere warmer, assuming it's an ale yeast (you didn't say what type of yeast you were using) try to get it to 65-70F. Swirl it very gently a few times when it's in the warmer area to try to get the yeast active ...


5

Yes yeast will get damaged and mostly die at 110°F+ anything over 120°F will kill in minutes, at 140°F it instantly kills the yeast. Just repitch some more yeast. You'll be fine.


4

It's hard to know when the yeast has hit high krausen, since the constant stirring prevents a krausen from forming, but with a starter, in many ways, you don't really need to know.... The idea behind pitching at high krausen is to pitch actively fermenting yeast. With good yeast stock, after about 18-24h your starter will be actively fermenting, and will ...


4

Yes, it certainly can finish that high depending on your recipe and technique. I have a bourbon vanilla imperial porter recipe that finishes in the 1.026-28 range. But it certainly won't hurt your beer to let it sit another week or so and see what happens.


4

This is quite normal. At the end of fermentation, there isn't much CO2 production - the yeast are conditioning the beer. Also, as the temperature falls, the pressure of the gas in the carboy decreases, which causes more air to enter from outside to equalize the pressure. Regarding the increase in gravity, 1 point is well within the error tolerance, and ...


4

The cake is referring the yeast the was produced from a previous batch of beer. Yeast reproduces as it ferments the beer. The layer on the bottom of the fermenter is the yeast that grew during fermentation. Some people will brew a batch of beer and pitch it directly onto the cake created from a previous brew. The preferred method would be to wash the yeast ...


4

Airlocks aren't really a great indicator as far as determining when fermentation is finished, so don't rely entirely on that. Also, Sometimes you may not see much krausen during fermentation, other times it will explode! Your delicious beverage could still be fermenting at a slow rate -- so slow that you might not notice it. This is where a hydrometer ...


4

I'd leave it overnight and give it more chance to work. Just because there is no activity in the airlock does not mean it's not fermenting


4

So, first things first, 1.130 is a pretty high starting gravity for some yeasts, and can cause some additional yeast stress, unless you are diligent with nutrients and your yeast is hearty enough to handle it. I'm not saying that this is necessarily a problem for D47, but its something to consider. The more work you expect the yeast to do, the more help you ...


4

You need to determine if you have a wort problem or a yeast problem. The way to do that is with a fast ferment test (sometimes called forced ferment test). Put some of the wort in a small sanitized container. You need enough to be able to take a gravity reading. Add a LOT of yeast to the sample...even bread yeast is fine for this since we want to know if ...


4

It's rather high for a Dunkelweizen. I'd try gently swirling the fermentation vessel to get the yeast off of the bottom. Maybe up the fermentation temp a few degrees too. Do that and try taking some SG readings a couple of weeks later and see if you have got things moving along again. I'd worry that if fermentation is just stuck (and not finished) that ...


4

1.028 is ok, but generally only if you started A LOT higher. First; try moving the fermenter to a warmer area and give it a bit of a swirl/shake to rouse the yeast. See if that helps. Second: make a new yeast starter and pitch that. leave it for a while and see if it solves your problem. Three: Taste the beer. If it tastes good, bottle and enjoy, else, ...


4

Logically, fermentation stops if either/both: a) nothing for yeast to eat, b) no yeast to eat the sugars. A. Review your recipe. If there is much crystal/cara-whatever grain, which provides non-fermentables, then FG of 1.03 may be it. Lactose is not fermentable, too, by the way, but I don't think 100g of lactose contributes to what it seems as 0.020 ...


4

Seeing that: US-05 has an apparent attenuation between 73% and 77% (Fermentis data sheet) You start from an OG of 1.120 And it is an extract beer (always more difficult to attenuate) I would conclude that your fermentation is finished. The calculated attenuation is now 75% which is nice in the middle of the expected attenuation of the yeast. You could ...


3

If by twin, you mean the same wort batch so it has the same fermentability, I'd let it sit a while longer. I'd also consider bumping the temperature up a few degrees and give the carboy a swirl to try to rouse the yeast to get them to finish the job. I just had the same thing happen to me on a cider I'm trying and that got them going again.


3

It sounds like you severely under-pitched. That OG sounds a little low too--it's about what I would expect from 10-12 lbs of honey in 5 gallons, but maybe that brand of honey is a little more watery than most. I've never used that strain of yeast (I'm a Lalvin guy) but if it is a wine yeast (as is likely) you are probably stuck with it. I would order ...


3

The gravity reading pretty much indicates fermentation was done. Shaking the bucket just knocked the CO2 out of solution, like shaking up a can of soda. The crud you were trying to get back into the "beverage" is called krausen. Its mostly yeast and other proteins from the malt. Not knowing your recipe I don't know if you used hops or not as part of the "...


3

Yes, this is perfectly normal. Given your gravity is 1.003, I'm not sure if fermentation actually started, or you just caused some of the CO2 to come out of solution - in both cases you'll get bubbles in the airlock. Ah, 4 days you say, that's quite a long time. It could be that you got "stratification" - bands of higher concentrated sugars at the bottom. ...


3

Lots of people cool their wort overnight, so that should be ok as long as it was in a sanitized container and was covered. Did you take a gravity reading of the cooled wort? If so, you should check the gravity now to confirm that it's not fermenting. Pitching more yeast sounds like a good plan if there really is no fermentation. But I'd use a dry yeast at ...


3

The picture shows that your beer is actively fermenting. The brown foam is called "Krausen" and is composed of yeast and other solids that have been pushed to the top of the fermenter by the force of escaping CO2 The most likely explanation for the lack of airlock activity is that either the bucket's lid was not properly sealed, or the airlock was not ...


3

You need to know what the gravity is to know if it has stalled. Airlock activity will not tell you this. This is documented in several other questions. For example: No bubbles in the airlock - should I still bottle the brew? First Time Airlock Won't Start Also for future reference, one standard 11.5g packet of S-04 easily has enough cells to ferment 5 ...


3

You moved the cider to secondary too soon. Normally you want at least 65% attenuation to have been reached. Since apple juice ferments to nearly 1.000, that would be 1.030. Apple juice is low in nutrients, which the yeast require to metabolize sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide. I would suggest you move the cider back into the fermentor and add fresh ...


3

To fix this beer, I would raise the temperature to 55F and leave it for another couple of weeks. Assuming sanitation is good the beer will be ok. 1.7l is on the small side even for a stirred starter for a 1.060 lager, and airation doesn't provide the dissolved oxygen levels needed. (ca. 15ppm.) In future, aim for a 4-5l starter and yeast nutrient. If you ...


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