Hot answers tagged

9

Just use water. The evaporating liquid does not need to be a sanitizer, per se.


7

Yes. Starsan is a single-component sanitiser and the small chamber is intended for measuring the liquid. You can't see it on your photo, but the chamber is marked with graduations in fluid ounces showing the quantity of liquid. To use it, you remove the cap on the chamber then squeeze the bottle until the chamber fills to the desired level, then stop ...


7

No rinse needed, if you follow the description on the bottle for the proper mix. If I remember correctly, the sanitization compound gets deactivated at a pH that's normal for brewing. There is a nice podcast with the inventor of starsan, where he explains that even the 30 secs are not needed. I'll post a link for you.


7

Water - it's cheap, it's always available, and does the job adequately. No need for anything else when something so simple works so well.


6

Don't worry about the foam, as far as I remember Charlie Tally, Head Chemist at 5 Star, has said that the starsan is broken down by the yeast. Also, when you fill the bottle most of the foam comes out as a "StarSan Worm", so there's relatively little left in the bottle. If you've not had any problems with head in your beer then your existing methods are ...


6

No. Use soap and water. Wash your hands for 20-30 seconds and make sure you wash your whole hand. I have no idea what dilution you would have to use to maintain efficacy or what dilution you would have to be below to not give yourself chemical burns.


5

Smell: Smells like beer. Look: Looks like beer. Taste: Tastes like beer. Verdict: It's beer! I think the issue here was paranoia of using a new sanitiser and tech. The Krausen looked to me like colony of 'something' floating on clear head, instead of all the foam looking brown and Krausen like.


4

You can probably achieve adequate sanitation with some very thorough spraying, but the spray from a bottle is not exactly uniform. And I'm not sure how you'd get the inside of tubing effectively besides filling it and sloshing it around, which is certainly an option. You don't need to dispose of Star-San after using it. You can keep it around for a while, ...


4

The difference between "drinking" tap water and "rinsing" with it is that our body can handle whatever small amount of bacteria may be in the water, but the conditions for fermenting beer are also ideal for bacteria to grow and multiply so that insignificant amount of bacteria we normally drink can grow under the right conditions (in the fermenter or bottle) ...


4

No. Not because they might not be effective, but because they are not made with your skin in mind. Their pH values, either acid or alkaline, are not compatible with your skin, and products for personal hygiene will also contain product to care for your skin, even alcoholic hand sanitiser. Use a real soap and scrub well.


3

Keep in mind that you don't actually have to submerge things in StarSan for it to be effective. You can mix it in a spray bottle with distilled water. It will stay good for months at least...a year isn't out if the question. Then you can spray things rather than submersing them in a bucketful. A 30 second contact time is 99.5% effective according to ...


3

Star San is not a cleaner, only a sanitizer. But boy is it a great sanitizer; well worth the price. 30 second contact time, foams readily, no-rinse, breaks down to yeast nutrient. Only thing I'll use or recommend. (Hint: mix it with distilled water, and it'll last "indefinitely"; that sure helps the cost go down. :)


3

Foil. :) Either vodka or star-san are perfectly fine. Water will work just as well. The liquid in an airlock does not strictly need to be sanitary, it just needs to provide a barrier for insects, primarily.


3

I've not used it myself, but found that some high ranking members over at www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk use it. They say they got it at the Pharmacist at ASDA for about £4.50 for a 500ml bottle. This is then diluted to 2.5ml in 2000ml water, so it's going to last a while! 1.25ml/l is the usual concentration. 2.5ml/l is the maximum no-rinse concentration. ...


3

I would suggest the iodine-based sanitizer knows as "Iodophor" if you really feel the need to sanitize the water: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iodophor This stuff is an iodine-based sanitizer, fairly common in homebrewing (but probably not as common as Star San). I started out my homebrewing career with it, and still have some left. A big bottle goes a ...


3

It's prolly normal and I doupt this foam comes from starsan. I get bigger reaction when my fermentation temperature is high and/or OG is high and/or yeast produce big krausen


2

I use gin as it is fine to drink if you accidentally suck it back through the airlock.


2

Well the active ingredient in PBW is 30% Sodium Metasilicate and the rest composed primarily of percarbonate (Oxyclean) and sodium bicarbonate. So the recipe you link to directly is not the same (which isn't to say it isn't a good cleaner). No access to iodophor? As to sanitizer. My suggestion and goto when I don't have starsan is to use a 2 tbsp Bleach, ...


2

I always have a spray bottle of Star San made up. It's definitely adequate for small items and touch-ups, but I slosh around a gallon of Star San in my carboys since it's easier. The other thing I do to sanitize some things is to wet a paper towel and then wipe the surface. The only thing that matters is that you wet all the surfaces and then give it a ...


2

Depending on what kind of sanatiser it is, many will keep thier sanitising properties indefinitely and through many uses. Acid based sanitisers like StarSan are effective as long as thier pH is below 3.0. A simple pH test is used to check it. Other sanitisers like iodine based sanitisers are intended as a single use and disposed of after 24 hours.


2

pH below 3.0 is a recognized threshold condition needed to rupture cell walls of most bacteria. Regardless of the product brand 3.0 pH would be the number to keep it below.


2

According to data submitted with the patent, PBW corrodes brass at a rate of 11 ppm over a 20 minute cycle (see example four, towards the bottom). I'm not exactly sure how this is measured, but let's say that, hypothetically, you lose about 1 ppm of your brass every two minutes of contact time. Assuming this, to fully corrode your brass fitting to oblivion ...


2

With StarSan (really, with any no-rinse sanitizer), as long as you're using it at the prescribed dosage and draining your vessel well, there's absolutely no danger to your yeast. There would need to be a lot of sanitizer (like dumping your yeast straight into the sanitizing solution) to have an effect on it. Even that probably wouldn't kill it, though it ...


2

When I was in college and could not afford anything other than bleach for sanitizing, but 1/2 of my beers had some sort of problem with them. The problem with bleach or anything you have to rinse off, is that you have to rinse, and rinse, and rinse, and then rinse again. Definitely think StarSan is worth it.


1

This question has been answered already, but I wanted to add to the testimonials! It's definitely worth the cost and lasts for months (I've never gone a year but I wouldn't be afraid to). Having a spray bottle is very handy for the fact that it works quick and is reliable. It may be small, but no one has touched on this yet: the customer service is ...


1

You have to find out what material the chiller is made of and then you can find the proper cleaner to use. If it is stainless almost anything that isn't chlorine based would be fine to use. Aluminum on the other hand doesn't fare well with oxygen based cleaners. If it is copper oxalic acid would be best such as the product bar keepers friend.


1

Like the other answers, don't worry too much. You don't want it in your beer though, it will add a sour hint of acid. It would seem you could siphon off the top but you cant, it mixes too easily. Trick is to rack the beer "out" of the trub on the bottom and the starsan on top. Next time do slow temp drops 1° an hour. Idea is to allow co2 production to ...


1

No worries, BUT: take your beer out of cold conditioning and let it warm up to diecetyl rest temperature. You will see some action in your airlock as the yeast consume the chemicals that are in star san. Wait until activity has finished and then cold crash again with out adding more star san! :P I recommend using a bubbler when cold crashing as the liquid ...


1

Don't worry too much about it. As @valverij said, StarSan is safe to drink at this concentration. I would try to siphon most of it off, especially if you need to move the beer before kegging. Moving it will likely mix the beer with the sanitizer. StarSan in water is almost without any smell or taste, so I don't think it will affect your beer much even if ...


1

For any beer you suspect to be infected, the bottom line is that if it tastes good and smells good, it is good. Also, the brown gunk in your fermenter looks like protein that would have clumped together during the boil. It's common to see it floating around on the krausen (yeast foam) during fermentation. Hope the beer turns out well!


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