'Do you think this will work with most recipes?'
I think it will. The thing about intentionally stronger flavors is that they tend to mask other unwanted flavors that develop over time. Precisely why brewing a light beer (say, a Helles) can be so difficult; every little flaw will come through, having no strong flavor to hide it.
'...add more hops, more ...
I don't have a lot of experience with recipe design, but I can provide some links.
Check out this excellent 2010 article from Brew Your Own magazine on Black IPAs. It says that the Great American Beer Festival adopted that style as "American-Style India Black Ale", and the characteristics are:
Color = 25+ SRM
Original Gravity = 1.056–1.075
If the starter fully fermented, most of the 1.040 should be gone; normal yeast attenuation is around 75%, so you should have 1L of 1.010 beer in the starter vessel.
1L of 1.010 beer into 19L of 1.076 OG wort would reduce the OG down to about 1.073. (76 points * 19L + 10 points * 1L) / 20L = 72.7 points = 1.073.
Though if possible, you should try to cold-...
It's impossible to look at a beers ingredient list and derive an exact recipe from it. You have to go through a process of trial and error, using any information you can get from the manufacturer combined with experience or intuition.
However, the good news is that you probably won't have to do that yourself, because its highly likely someone else already ...
Dry yeast packets are generally enough for 3-6 gallons. So with 1 gallon, about 1/4 of one pack is plenty for a commercial dried yeast such as Danstar Lallemand Nottingham Ale yeast. And you most definitely would not need 2 packs! Even 1 whole pack is a major over-pitch.
Making wine is more about process than recipe. With the exception of quality ingredients. Standard table grapes don't really make decent wine. This becomes incredibly apparent when you actually taste the juice from a true wine grape. I've dabbled in some wine making all from kits of different grape musts. When you taste the ...
Adding to @FranklinPCombs's answer, if you have a CO2 canister, prefill your bottles with CO2 before filling them. That will guarantee that the head space contains no free oxygen and might buy you a little more shelf life.
Are you really looking for body when you say the flavor was empty?
You may need a little acid blend in the final product to brighten the flavors. Cider as a beverage is normally pretty low on body.
Next time I'd try an English Ale yeast which will attenuate slightly less, leaving you some natural apple sweetness. At packaging you can add in a little acid ...
I wouldn't advise. Idk if the husk has tannins but I assume it does, because "corn hair" does.
In any case boiling will extract tannins if the water isn't treated to be blow 6.0 pH.
I'm sure if you still wanted to try it, you could taste the water before hand to see if it has the astringent properties of tannins.
Best to just add some flaked maize to the ...
PB2 peanut powder is what a local brewery was using to make there peanut butter stout. It makes sense to use powdered VS regular, regular has a lot of fats and oils in it, that would be bad for carbonation and head retention.
The most important things for a beer to have a long shelf life is the quality of the beer to start with. Having a flawless beer will have nothing to hide and will age much better.
One of the most common problems with hoppy beers is they cover a lot if sins, but as the hops fade they reveal the off flavors that were there all a long. Diacetyl is at the top ...
You've covered most the bases so without going into too much "why" here are some suggestions.
The key to light body sweetness are simple sugars (monosaccharides) but these are the easiest for yeast to eat. Larger molecule, harder to ferment sugars impart a cloying body and a slick mouthfeel.
Stop fermentation early. ...
First off you are not crazy, adding fruit to alcoholic beverages is an age old process. You have a few options, you can add the peaches to the secondary, minus the syrup.
If the peaches are straight from a can they will have been pasteurized so you can add them straight in if you wish. You may want to freeze them first to break down cell walls and extract ...
I disagree it's perception. I have had similar issues with some beers that they are wonderful for a couple of weeks then go downhill.
I'm focusing on either contamination or oxidation. I find the issue is less apparent if I prime in the keg with sugar. And I have also had it happen with one keg of 2 of a 14% beer - one keg is still pristine while the other ...
In my opinion, metrics and analytics are always important, and useful. The problem is pitching your idea to a broad enough audience to get it off the ground. Without mass data to back everything up, you won't be able to justify the work. If you intend to do it for yourself only, well I honestly wouldn't bother, since I know what I like, and what I don't ...
As a Scotsman and a professional brewer the answer to how much peated malt to put in a Scotch Ale is zero.
The smoked malt beers I first came across were German never Scottish.
In Scottish breweries we used to pay special attention to testing for any peated malt contamination of our malt deliveries because so much peated malt could accidently come into ...
Ignore yeast in the recipe. If you can't get it, you can't get it. Look for dry yeast that meet what you need:
Most yeast have "good for" style list. Choose one that's good for your style.
Alcohol tolerance must be equal or higher than you expect in your beer.
Temperature range you can actually get.
With these three, you should get good enough results. For ...
I don't really view the C120 or the Special B as being roasted malts that would contribute significant bitterness issues. So one pound of Roasted Barley seems spot on and not an issue as far as bitterness is concerned. I have added more than 2lbs of RB, BP and chocolate in combination and not worried about bitterness.
I would be concerned about using the ...
Your recipe look completely fine to me.
Your malt bill looks OK. Your OG will be ever so slightly higher, and color may turn out very slightly darker but not enough to care about.
"Finishing hops" are not added for bitterness, they're there for flavour and aroma and don't actually add significant bittering, since it's the extended boiling of hops that ...
In general, when it comes to modifying extract kits, you have a few options to make it better:
1. Add less water to increase flavor and alcohol content (ex: 20L instead of 23L)
2. Steep some specialty grain to add flavor (depends on the type of beer)
3. Add some hops (dry hopping or boiled) to add more flavor/bitterness
4. Add Dextrose (sugar) to ...
Scaling back just the base malts (fermentables) will lean a style to have more mouth feel body and make residual unfermentable sugars more noticeable without the alcohol to "cut" them down. These changes can also be countered by water dilution.
If you had a 4% ABV recipe and scaled back the fermentables 25% it should still be pretty close to style and ...
I've made birch sap wine before now and there was no real discernable difference between that and sugar-water wine.
I have read that to make birch syrup you need to reduce 100:1. 1.005 in sugar solution equates to 13g sugar/L, so it seems plausible that the majority of the dissolved contents are sugars (and salts, minerals etc).
To be honest I think birch ...
I once made a clone recipe of Dogfish Head's Midas Touch that called for a small saffron addition with about 15 minutes left in the boil. In that recipe in particular, the saffron replaced the traditional aroma hop addition, so naturally aroma was impacted the most in this instance.
As far as taste, I would do a test with something else in the kitchen. ...
Current BJCP guidelines have Black IPA under Specialty IPA category. And it does have difference with American stout and porters defined:
Not as roasty burnt as American stouts and porters, and with less body and increased smoothness and drinkability.
That's official now. Basically this answer is still true, only more canonical source became available.
You'd want to do it as a late-addition fermentable. From the FAQ late addition entry:
"Use this to exclude the fermentable from the estimated boil gravity used in the calculator."
This means you'll have the right gravity for bittering calculations during the boil, and the right post-boil gravity (reflecting the addition of sugar).
This will give you the IBU and ABV you are looking for. To get the mouth feel you will have to play around with mash-in temps to try get the right proportions of un-fermentable sugars out.
4.5 kg 10lb Pale 2-Row (UK) Any Mash 38 2 °L
0.45 kg 1lb Chocolate (US) Any Mash 29 350 °L
0.45 kg 1lb Caramel/Crystal 60L (...
For BJCP Info, I use BJCP 2015
Beersmith (lite or full) is a good tool (but I tend to do everything on the PC, so I do not use the app that much). The app allows for recipe formulation, logs and timers.
Brew Timer is a life saver for letting you know when to do what. Easy to configure. The pre-warning function is one of the best features.
Lastly, CvPad, ...
First convert your values to Plato as SG isn’t linear for mass of sugar in a volume vs gravity points. This allows you to use simple algebra to average different beers. If the two gravities are very close then not converting will mean you will be off by only a few points, but if the gravities are vastly different your calculated value will be off ...
You can make graff, or malted cider, as was already answered.
Your other options are:
Steep light crystal malt in juice to get sugars from it. Many (most?) are non fermentable. Especially malts like Carapils® by Weyermann or Cara Clair by Castlemalting are developed to provide body, but not much else.
Experiment with different kinds of apples, they provide ...