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There are several issues with a large propane burner used indoors (or natural gas/methane for that matter - propane is derived from NG, in fact). The issues with a large open flame on a mobile base inside your house are obvious. The burner would have to be situated at a distance from any combustibles, similar to safely installing a wood stove. Then there'...


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do not burn propane indoors without ventilation, it produces carbon dioxide when burned, this could potentially fill up your basement and suffocate you. Also incomplete combustion of propane will produce carbon monoxide which is toxic.


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If your additional 1.12 gallons of 70F water can be considered free of heating time and cost, then we just need to compare the different quantities of water being heated and the temperature they are raised through: 2.82 gallons from 70F to 212F = 2.82 * (212-70) = 400.44 galF 4 gallons from 70F to 170F = 4 * (170-100) = 400 galF (I'm using non-standard ...


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The original Brutus build is not electric, but natural gas, so that may in fact be a good place to start, especially for seeing how the flame control works (temp controller + pilot and valve.) The write-ups are very good and many have successfully built clones. A new spring is needed on the honeywell valves to convert from natural gas to propane - this blog ...


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Propane indoors would indeed be a bad idea. What about switching to an electric based method like a heatstick? The heatsticks are a great option if you have GFI outlets, or can install them. With two of them (plugged into different circuits) you should be able to boil quite quickly.


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I am a single burner all grain brewer so I figured I would share my process. Right now I have a 8.5g polarware kettle w/ thermometer and ball valve, a 4g pot for an HLT and a 10g igloo mash tun. My typical setup is heat the mash water in my polarware kettle, and then mash in to the cooler. Then, depending on how much sparge water (I batch sparge) I either ...


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I would replace the regulator. A high pressure regulator should resolve your problems. I have one of these and I can run three big burners even when the gas is low. I was told this is called a Red Devil Regulator.


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I have a Blichmann burner with the leg extensions, and to that point, you may need a platform to set it on to do all of your gravity feeding. I gravity feed from the kettle on the burner to the mash tun (48qt cooler sitting on top of a 5 gallon bucket), and usually have to lift the kettle and pour out the last gallon or so when the mash tun is full, ...


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If you want to brew 10 gallons, I recommend the Blichmann pot, although I would go with the 20 gallon size - 15 gallons is on the small side for a boil kettle for 10 gallon batches. Here's why. For a 10 gallon batch, you'll typically want about 11.5-12 gallons at the end of boiling, to account for trub, losses to chiller, losses in the fermentor, hydrometer ...


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I can't speak to any of the Blichmann equipment, as I have none. With that said, I also run a single burner set up, and I would highly recommend you change the title of your 5 gallon cooler from 'mash tun' to 'hot liquor tank'. That is what I use and it works quite well...plus you have this already. So you heat your mash water on the burner and mash in with ...


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It's entirely subjective. When I upgraded from my 5G pot to a 10G and started doing full-volume boils, I replaced my turkey fryer with an "outdoor cooker" burner. I can get 6.5G of water to a boil about as fast as I could 3.5G with my old pot/burner, and my new burner has a wind screen so I don't have to relight if the wind kicks up. I'm sure my new ...


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