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6

Specifically, mashing is the process of extracting soluble materials from the grains with water and enzymatically converting them into a form the yeast can use, while lautering refers to the separation of the liquid and solid portions of the finished mash. So mashing is an enzymatic/chemical process, and lautering is basically physical. In big operations, a ...


5

Make a hole. There is no need for the mash tun to be air tight.


4

200L? Wow. You might consider using a length of copper tubing with slits cut in it, instead of a false bottom. My mash tun came with a false bottom which was always a bit of a pain to get nicely into place. One day I replaced it with the copper tube thing and I love it! I have since replaced my mash tun with a larger one, but I'm still using the same ...


4

I think you have the right idea about sealing the rim of your false bottom. The common method is to use a length of vinyl tubing slit lengthwise. The false bottom fits into the slit as you wrap the tubing around it.


3

They could be the same container, it seems that most people do it that way. If you mashed in one container, and then transferred to another to separate the grains & wort, then you would have a mash tun and a lauter tun. I've used a small 2 vessel pro system set up this way, where the mash was done in the boil kettle and then pumped over to the lauter ...


3

Sure, it would change the color, but isn't the color already altered due to the increased density of the wort? By adding water, you'd be diluting the SRM back to what you originally expected. By having a higher extraction yield, you will suffer a slight loss in alpha acid isomerization (likely not all that noticeable with an 8%+/- efficiency difference). ...


2

First, John's recommendation to stop sparging at 1.008-12 is based on fly sparging. If you batch sparge it doesn't apply to you. The reason he recommends that gravity to stop sparging is that it's an indicator of rising pH, which could pull tannins from the grain. It sounds like maybe you were measuring your wort gravity, rather than the gravity of your ...


1

Even with RIMS you should do the vorlauf step.... Set the grain bed manually before you start RIMS circulation. This will prevent the initial chunks from getting stuck in the RIMS plumbing. I prefer stainless braided ring as false bottoms.


1

You usually should not need to use rice hulls. If you are keep torrified wheat or oats below 5% you'll be fine. When you go beyond 5% of the malt bill especially with oats I would advise adding some rice hulls, about 1/10 the amount of oats you are using eg for a pound (454g) of oats about 1.5-2oz (50g) of hulls. This has always worked well for me. If you ...


1

Lautering is the separation or wort from grains, sparging is the rinsing of water through the grains to get more wort. Most recipes call for a sparge to get a good effeciency, and if you fly sparge then you would be doing your lauter and sparge at the same time. (Some people ladle water onto the grain bed and call it batch sparging... but I think it works ...


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