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8

At beer pressures, a keg cannot explode. It's designed to take much more pressure - rated to around 120-130 psi. Even at failure, the seals will fail rather than the chamber itself. Failing at standard beer pressures will be as a leak (pinhole or crack). Which isn't to say they can't explode. It's a sealed pressurized vessel - so it could explode or implode....


7

I can think of a couple reasons. One is that the beer is over carbonated...maybe not literally, but it indicates your system may be out of balance. The other reason would be if you had a long line from the keg to the tap. The line is warmer and the CO2 comes out of solution in the line.


7

Your general understanding is pretty much spot-on. I think the thing to consider here is that your reasoning assumes that half or a third of the priming sugar is meant to yield the same amount of carbonation as it would in the bottle. I'd argue this isn't the case. Notice how recommendations like this keg-underpriming 'common wisdom' usually don't go so far ...


6

You only need multiple line regulators if you want different beers at different pressures. I think 90+% of people just dispense their beers at the same pressure. Hence, they only use one regulator. If having a very bubbly Belgian Tripel and a softly carbonated English Mild on draft side is something you MUST have then two different line regulators becomes ...


6

I don't have all the math in front of me but a typical beer freezes in the mid 20's Fahrenheit. Lower alcohol might be 27F and higher might be 24F. There are a lot of different factors like the volume of liquid and wind and the alcohol. I would think that if you left a full keg out overnight and the temperatures dipped into the upper teens, you'd probably be ...


5

By poppet do you mean the little springy thing inside of the keg post or do you mean the outer keg post itself? I'll try to answer both. I have ruined a few poppets by forcing them out with a screw driver and had to replace. The replacement poppets do not stick in as hard and normally fall right out. For cleaning I go with a long soak in PBW then StarSan ...


5

I've done just this for my last 30 batches or so. It's lovely, and I see no reason to go back. I fill the corny to the weld line, bubble some oxygen up through the liquid diptube, and then connect my spunding valve to the gas connect. The spunding valve is just a pressure gauge and an adjustable pressure relief valve attached to a 1/4" stainless tee. To ...


5

Look into "spunding valves", either to buy or DIY. Often used for natural carbonation, but it could be used to control primary fermentation pressure, as you suggest.


5

Keep an eye on Craigslist for a used refrigerator. You can often get them free or nearly free if you pick it up. That's all you need: take the shelves out, and you can keep your keg in there with a picnic tap. I did this for about 15 years in my basement. If you want to get fancy, you could get a kit to put a faucet through the side so you don't have to open ...


5

Yes. The relation between temperature, pressure and volumes of CO₂ are true at higher-than-fridge temperatures, as well. The biggest difference is that with the higher pressure required for the carbonation at the higher temperature, you'll need longer beer serving lines to resist the extra pressure to get a reasonable pour without foaming. Let's say ...


5

If you completely purge the keg of CO2 and let it sit for 10minutes and the beer pushes itself out with the regulator shut off then the beer is potentially over carbonated. If the beer was overcarbed a simple burp of the keg and setting to 10PSI doesn't fix it. There is still CO2 that has to come out. Multiple burps and rests are required. A spunding ...


4

No, it makes no difference - the CO2 is already liquid, and the difference between fridge and room temperature doesn't make any significant difference. When the CO2 comes out of the tank and converts to gas, it becomes much colder - again, significantly more colder than the difference between fridge and room temp. So again, no real difference. Where is ...


4

I have a buddy who did this for several years before investing in a beer fridge. Its not ideal, but it works. The main difference to remember is that C02 becomes more soluble in liquid as the liquid drops in temperature, and less as it rises. So this means you'll need to push more C02 in to carbonate room temp kegs than cold ones.


4

If primary fermentation is complete, adding priming sugar only allows the wort to consume the newly added sugar; it doesn't continue to ferment afterward. In a 5gal corny keg, 4 oz of corn sugar will be sufficient. You must leave it at room temp (just like a bottle) for a couple of weeks. It should carbonate just fine. (Akin to cask conditioning). You can ...


4

I've successfully made wine in corny kegs and had the wine keep for many years. I use Nitrogen to pressurize the keg, which doesn't dissolve into the beer and provides an inert atmosphere.


4

You MUST have the poppet in place. And it must be working properly. There are two poppets that work together. One in the post on the keg as pictured AND there is also one inside the beverage line disconnect. It is usually a clear like plastic nub. Both poppets are spring loaded, and need to push on each other to create an open path for liquid to flow. ...


4

Shandies (and Radlers for that matter) are beer cocktails from their respective home countries. A true shandy is a mix of light wheat or lager beer with lemonade and done in the glass. Companies like Miller are capitalizing by putting it in a bottle. The strip the yeast out of finished beer, blend with lemonade and then carbonate it on the way to the ...


4

Vaseline is petroleum based and will degrade black orings. Use food grade silicone spray to keep your keg seals fresh and lubricated.


3

I just worked on several kegs over the weekend. I normally only tighten them with a mild amount of strength. Wish I had a torque wrench to tell you exactly. I tighten by hand then maybe another 1/8 to 1/4 turn with the wrench. I am certainly not putting any of my weight on it. (As an aside tip, when I get one that's really tight, I'll lay the keg on its ...


3

The current going prices for reconditioned kegs are closer to $60-70/ea on other sites, a bit less if you're willing to put up with cut handles or other minor deficiencies. $40/keg is a good deal. $12/keg is too good to be true. :)


3

Those are ball lock kegs. You can use PBW (or Oxiclean) to clean them and StarSan to sanitize. Common CO2 tank sizes are 5 gal. and 20 gal. 5 gal. are more portable if that matters to you. I use a 20 gal. and only need to get it filled once a year. Here is some excellent info on cleaning, maintaining, and using kegs.... http://web.archive.org/web/...


3

It's absolutely possible to do so. The main thing you have to watch out for is oxidation. A bottle of wine, once opened, is going to be consumed fast enough for oxidation to not be a problem. A cask/barrel will not (unless you're a true champ at drinking wine). The trick is to introduce an inert atmosphere above the wine as it's dispensed at low enough ...


3

There's certainly nothing that's going to stop you, and everything will probably turn out fine if you make no changes to your recipe and just throw in an extra 1/4 gallon at the end. But you are diluting your wort a bit, so you're decreasing your OG. You could attempt to increase your OG by a minor amount, but that will be a little more difficult since you'...


3

Commercial kegs in distribution, either in transit or in waiting to be put on tap in bar are … exactly the situation you describe. It will be just fine. You don't really need to add any additional headspace pressure over the pressure to reach you intended carbonation level. Hop flavors fade over time, of course, but that's unrelated to your question.


3

It depends on how your system is configured, mainly on the length, inner diameter, and material of the liquid lines. This article explains it better than I could. Most home draft systems seem to settle in somewhere between 8 and 12 PSI. You don't need to turn off the gas. There is only so much CO2 that will dissolve into the beer at a given temperature and ...


3

It's too much of a shopping list, and especially to start off. For kegging, you need: a keg ;) a way to introduce CO₂ a way to dispense beer From what you've listed, you will need either: the regulator, and also: a CO₂ tank to go along with it (not listed) gas-line tubing from the regulator to the gas quick disconnect (QD) you listed the gas QD you ...


3

You have a leak. As long as your connections and lines and kegs are sealed up tight, you don't have to turn off the main valve because there's nowhere for the gas to go. You can spray Star San (or other bubbly liquid) on the various seals to check for leaks. Having lost a 10 lb. tank of CO2 to a leak myself, I always turn off my main valve when I'm not ...


3

Its not impossible to know how much CO2 is dissolved in the beer. There are tools for measuring it. Many professional breweries use these tools because have an exact carbonation level is important to them. As homebrewers we don't normally buy these tools so we can make random measurements. That said. It is well known how many volumes of CO2 are dissolved ...


3

There are a few issues with storing beer in any half full container. All of these issues are manageable. The first issue is oxygenation, but if you flush the keg with CO2 it will be fine while it is in the keg. Storing the keg at room temperature will allow a little bit of additional fermentation and you will wind up with a thicker layer of dead yeast on ...


3

As farmersteve said, yes you can. But in my experience you can get less than desirarable results if done wrong. Problem happens when force carbonation method or timing messes with the clarification process. Best way is to add gelatin to the keg, swirl the keg slightly don't shake. Then use the top down plug and forget method to force carbonate. Top down ...


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