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7

Your general understanding is pretty much spot-on. I think the thing to consider here is that your reasoning assumes that half or a third of the priming sugar is meant to yield the same amount of carbonation as it would in the bottle. I'd argue this isn't the case. Notice how recommendations like this keg-underpriming 'common wisdom' usually don't go so far ...


6

You only need multiple line regulators if you want different beers at different pressures. I think 90+% of people just dispense their beers at the same pressure. Hence, they only use one regulator. If having a very bubbly Belgian Tripel and a softly carbonated English Mild on draft side is something you MUST have then two different line regulators becomes ...


6

I don't have all the math in front of me but a typical beer freezes in the mid 20's Fahrenheit. Lower alcohol might be 27F and higher might be 24F. There are a lot of different factors like the volume of liquid and wind and the alcohol. I would think that if you left a full keg out overnight and the temperatures dipped into the upper teens, you'd probably be ...


5

Keep an eye on Craigslist for a used refrigerator. You can often get them free or nearly free if you pick it up. That's all you need: take the shelves out, and you can keep your keg in there with a picnic tap. I did this for about 15 years in my basement. If you want to get fancy, you could get a kit to put a faucet through the side so you don't have to open ...


5

By poppet do you mean the little springy thing inside of the keg post or do you mean the outer keg post itself? I'll try to answer both. I have ruined a few poppets by forcing them out with a screw driver and had to replace. The replacement poppets do not stick in as hard and normally fall right out. For cleaning I go with a long soak in PBW then StarSan ...


5

Yes. The relation between temperature, pressure and volumes of CO₂ are true at higher-than-fridge temperatures, as well. The biggest difference is that with the higher pressure required for the carbonation at the higher temperature, you'll need longer beer serving lines to resist the extra pressure to get a reasonable pour without foaming. Let's say ...


5

If you completely purge the keg of CO2 and let it sit for 10minutes and the beer pushes itself out with the regulator shut off then the beer is potentially over carbonated. If the beer was overcarbed a simple burp of the keg and setting to 10PSI doesn't fix it. There is still CO2 that has to come out. Multiple burps and rests are required. A spunding ...


4

If primary fermentation is complete, adding priming sugar only allows the wort to consume the newly added sugar; it doesn't continue to ferment afterward. In a 5gal corny keg, 4 oz of corn sugar will be sufficient. You must leave it at room temp (just like a bottle) for a couple of weeks. It should carbonate just fine. (Akin to cask conditioning). You can ...


4

I've successfully made wine in corny kegs and had the wine keep for many years. I use Nitrogen to pressurize the keg, which doesn't dissolve into the beer and provides an inert atmosphere.


4

You MUST have the poppet in place. And it must be working properly. There are two poppets that work together. One in the post on the keg as pictured AND there is also one inside the beverage line disconnect. It is usually a clear like plastic nub. Both poppets are spring loaded, and need to push on each other to create an open path for liquid to flow. ...


4

Shandies (and Radlers for that matter) are beer cocktails from their respective home countries. A true shandy is a mix of light wheat or lager beer with lemonade and done in the glass. Companies like Miller are capitalizing by putting it in a bottle. The strip the yeast out of finished beer, blend with lemonade and then carbonate it on the way to the ...


4

Vaseline is petroleum based and will degrade black orings. Use food grade silicone spray to keep your keg seals fresh and lubricated.


3

Commercial kegs in distribution, either in transit or in waiting to be put on tap in bar are … exactly the situation you describe. It will be just fine. You don't really need to add any additional headspace pressure over the pressure to reach you intended carbonation level. Hop flavors fade over time, of course, but that's unrelated to your question.


3

I just worked on several kegs over the weekend. I normally only tighten them with a mild amount of strength. Wish I had a torque wrench to tell you exactly. I tighten by hand then maybe another 1/8 to 1/4 turn with the wrench. I am certainly not putting any of my weight on it. (As an aside tip, when I get one that's really tight, I'll lay the keg on its ...


3

It's too much of a shopping list, and especially to start off. For kegging, you need: a keg ;) a way to introduce CO₂ a way to dispense beer From what you've listed, you will need either: the regulator, and also: a CO₂ tank to go along with it (not listed) gas-line tubing from the regulator to the gas quick disconnect (QD) you listed the gas QD you ...


3

It depends on how your system is configured, mainly on the length, inner diameter, and material of the liquid lines. This article explains it better than I could. Most home draft systems seem to settle in somewhere between 8 and 12 PSI. You don't need to turn off the gas. There is only so much CO2 that will dissolve into the beer at a given temperature and ...


3

It's absolutely possible to do so. The main thing you have to watch out for is oxidation. A bottle of wine, once opened, is going to be consumed fast enough for oxidation to not be a problem. A cask/barrel will not (unless you're a true champ at drinking wine). The trick is to introduce an inert atmosphere above the wine as it's dispensed at low enough ...


3

There's certainly nothing that's going to stop you, and everything will probably turn out fine if you make no changes to your recipe and just throw in an extra 1/4 gallon at the end. But you are diluting your wort a bit, so you're decreasing your OG. You could attempt to increase your OG by a minor amount, but that will be a little more difficult since you'...


3

The current going prices for reconditioned kegs are closer to $60-70/ea on other sites, a bit less if you're willing to put up with cut handles or other minor deficiencies. $40/keg is a good deal. $12/keg is too good to be true. :)


3

You have a leak. As long as your connections and lines and kegs are sealed up tight, you don't have to turn off the main valve because there's nowhere for the gas to go. You can spray Star San (or other bubbly liquid) on the various seals to check for leaks. Having lost a 10 lb. tank of CO2 to a leak myself, I always turn off my main valve when I'm not ...


3

Its not impossible to know how much CO2 is dissolved in the beer. There are tools for measuring it. Many professional breweries use these tools because have an exact carbonation level is important to them. As homebrewers we don't normally buy these tools so we can make random measurements. That said. It is well known how many volumes of CO2 are dissolved ...


3

There are a few issues with storing beer in any half full container. All of these issues are manageable. The first issue is oxygenation, but if you flush the keg with CO2 it will be fine while it is in the keg. Storing the keg at room temperature will allow a little bit of additional fermentation and you will wind up with a thicker layer of dead yeast on ...


3

As farmersteve said, yes you can. But in my experience you can get less than desirarable results if done wrong. Problem happens when force carbonation method or timing messes with the clarification process. Best way is to add gelatin to the keg, swirl the keg slightly don't shake. Then use the top down plug and forget method to force carbonate. Top down ...


3

my best guess is no leak, but as you pour, if you dont continue to keep the pressure constant, the carbonation will come out of solution, and you will continually get flatter and flatter beer as you pour more. example would be drink half of a 2L of soda, then let it sit with a cap on. in a day or 2 you'll notice the pressure will go up, and the soda will ...


3

There's a formula used for determining the freezing point of a given beer in the brewing industry, taken from this book: Freezing point(°C) = -(0.42 * ABW% + 0.04 * OG[°P] + 0.2) You can easily convert ABV to ABW by: ABW% = ABV% * 0.82 Or you can get a formula for which you only need OG and FG, by: ABW% = ~ 0.42 * (OG - FG[°P])


2

Just to be clear this is regarding steel or aluminium kegs... in the end they'll all fail at a high enough pressure but will they explode or will they leak first (not everything explodes)? In mechanics terms are they a thin walled or thick walled vessel. The thicker the wall is the stronger it could be but also longer the cracks are that can grow in it as ...


2

Assuming everything is stored properly cool, it isn't necessary to worry about cleaning the tap line in between pours, even if it takes you several months to finish the keg. If beer has sat unmoving in the beverage tubing for an extended period (a couple weeks), that small portion of beer may be stale; in this case I'd just run off the first bit into a ...


2

Generally speaking, as long as you still have beer in the keg and you're pushing it out with CO2, you should be fine. This assumes that you're keeping your keg cool (beer is a food product as should be treated as one). Here's how I clean mind and I've never had an issue: When the keg is empty, first I cry a little for my lost friend. First, I rinse the keg ...


2

In addition to BBS's answer (this will lower your OG), filling past the 5 gallon mark will further reduce the amount of headspace in your carboy/bucket. Some yeast require more room than others, and you could end up clogging up your airlock or losing more beer out a blowoff tube. My advice would be to target a specific gravity rather than a specific volume. ...


2

Move to a cold country and leave the kegs outside. :p I have a chillplate that I put into my fridge. I store the keg and CO2 on the one side of the fridge, beerline goed into the fridge, through the chill plate and out the other side to a mounted tap. Works like a dream. * I have NOT tested the system in the heat of summer (35C), but so far it is working ...


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