7

They are slightly differently sized. In particular, the grey gas fitting will fit over the "out" post, but the black liquid fitting will not fit over the "in" post without significant pain. But, yes you should treat them as the separate things they are.


7

No, it will not. A concern you might have if the keg was full would be the sudden foaming as you depressurize, which might overflow the keg. But at 1/4 full, no problem. If you're concerned about O₂, don't be. You'll have a keg full of heavy CO₂, and will only open the lid for a few moments, not enough time for any substantial O₂ to mix in. If you're ...


5

Don't pin it. This is a cask practice, but not necessary in your corny keg and will reduce the carbonation. In fact, you can prime it (fully sealed), wait 14 days, put it in the fridge and tap it in a few hours; the pressure built up during priming will let it flow, at least for a gallon or two. After which, if you can't put CO2 on it, prime it again and ...


5

I've done just this for my last 30 batches or so. It's lovely, and I see no reason to go back. I fill the corny to the weld line, bubble some oxygen up through the liquid diptube, and then connect my spunding valve to the gas connect. The spunding valve is just a pressure gauge and an adjustable pressure relief valve attached to a 1/4" stainless tee. To ...


5

Look into "spunding valves", either to buy or DIY. Often used for natural carbonation, but it could be used to control primary fermentation pressure, as you suggest.


5

Keep an eye on Craigslist for a used refrigerator. You can often get them free or nearly free if you pick it up. That's all you need: take the shelves out, and you can keep your keg in there with a picnic tap. I did this for about 15 years in my basement. If you want to get fancy, you could get a kit to put a faucet through the side so you don't have to open ...


5

Yes. The relation between temperature, pressure and volumes of CO₂ are true at higher-than-fridge temperatures, as well. The biggest difference is that with the higher pressure required for the carbonation at the higher temperature, you'll need longer beer serving lines to resist the extra pressure to get a reasonable pour without foaming. Let's say ...


5

If you completely purge the keg of CO2 and let it sit for 10minutes and the beer pushes itself out with the regulator shut off then the beer is potentially over carbonated. If the beer was overcarbed a simple burp of the keg and setting to 10PSI doesn't fix it. There is still CO2 that has to come out. Multiple burps and rests are required. A spunding ...


4

You should be OK. The connectors are not identical inside the keg. The beer out connector has a long tube to take it to the bottom of the keg. The gas in connector is open near the top of the keg. This is so the gas pushes the beer up the tube from the bottom. By reversing the posts you are effectively pushing the beer out the top of the keg by bubbling CO2 ...


4

Option 1: Kegerator. Can be bought or built (google for DIY Kegerators and you will see many more options). Building gives you the option to find a fridge that fits into a random corner and holds the amount of kegs you require. Chest freezers (keezer) make great kegerators and they can still be a table. Option 2: Store the kegs in the attic, run pipes to ...


4

I'm from Brasil, and the kegs found here always came from coca-cola, and have the pin-lock as standard. Here you can't find the ball lock ones. All the kegs I've ever seen here has this kind of lid, or something a little different: This ones uses the kind of pressure relief valve you cited in brewchez' answer, and is always screwed from the bottom of the ...


4

Are you sure they're not there? I ask because I have six pin lock kegs, and two of them have tiny gas dip tubes that are maybe a quarter of an inch long. (Just long enough to hold the O-ring.) They usually stick inside the gas post when I remove it. I can attest that these short dip tubes work just fine. To answer your question, though, you will need dip ...


4

You can use the pressure from fermentation to transfer from the fermenter to a serving keg. First, you'll want a spunding valve on the fermenter to control the pressure by releasing gas after the target pressure has been reached. When fermentation is complete, pressurize the serving keg with CO2 to slightly less pressure than what's showing on the ...


4

I think what will end up happening is something like… After lag and reproduction, the yeast will start to ferment, and pressure will build up on the fermenting corny. This will slowly push still-fermenting wort into the second carboy, though perhaps following some of the trub that will have settled out first. At some point, the two cornys will reach an ...


4

You MUST have the poppet in place. And it must be working properly. There are two poppets that work together. One in the post on the keg as pictured AND there is also one inside the beverage line disconnect. It is usually a clear like plastic nub. Both poppets are spring loaded, and need to push on each other to create an open path for liquid to flow. ...


4

Vaseline is petroleum based and will degrade black orings. Use food grade silicone spray to keep your keg seals fresh and lubricated.


3

I see a potential problem in that as the first waves of beer flow out into the secondary keg, they aren't yet done fermenting. So its like you're racking some of the beer to secondary on the very first day of fermenation. I would worry that this would shock the yeast somehow in the secondary keg and you'd get a stalled out fermentation there. Furthermore, ...


3

I contacted CornyKeg.com, the people who created the video. They said that the video they created was erroneous and that static relief valves do not need to be replaced if they have been used. Here's a quote: I am not sure why that video is even on the internet anymore. Those static relief valves will reset and usable again. As long as they do not leak ...


3

The current going prices for reconditioned kegs are closer to $60-70/ea on other sites, a bit less if you're willing to put up with cut handles or other minor deficiencies. $40/keg is a good deal. $12/keg is too good to be true. :)


3

I think it should be fairly simple to adapt to corny kegs (in fact there is a picture of the fridge filled with corny kegs.) You have QDs for the kegs, so you have the connectors needed on the keg side. You also need hoses and connectors to connect the keg to the tower and to CO2: to beer in on the tower: push 6-10' of 3/16" beer line over the barbed beer ...


3

You're right that dead yeast is a good nutrient for live yeast. The growth medium used for yeast in the lab is YE (yeast extract) plus some sugar. This plan will probably provide some nutrition to the yeast, and work out OK for a few batches, but I think that problems will crop up. You won't actually make yeast extract. Yeast extract is made inducing '...


3

It depends on how your system is configured, mainly on the length, inner diameter, and material of the liquid lines. This article explains it better than I could. Most home draft systems seem to settle in somewhere between 8 and 12 PSI. You don't need to turn off the gas. There is only so much CO2 that will dissolve into the beer at a given temperature and ...


3

It's too much of a shopping list, and especially to start off. For kegging, you need: a keg ;) a way to introduce CO₂ a way to dispense beer From what you've listed, you will need either: the regulator, and also: a CO₂ tank to go along with it (not listed) gas-line tubing from the regulator to the gas quick disconnect (QD) you listed the gas QD you ...


3

You have a leak. As long as your connections and lines and kegs are sealed up tight, you don't have to turn off the main valve because there's nowhere for the gas to go. You can spray Star San (or other bubbly liquid) on the various seals to check for leaks. Having lost a 10 lb. tank of CO2 to a leak myself, I always turn off my main valve when I'm not ...


3

Yes. There's little difference in time if any when you're talking about 5-15 gallons. Basically CO2 absorption would need to be greater than the volume your regulator to serve for there to be issue. Tank depth also plays a roll, but has very little effect at homebrew volumes.


2

Original Source: BYO.com Balancing your Draft System: Advanced Brewing With: 3/16" beer lines Serving tap 2ft above the keg 5 PSI CO2 serving/dispensing pressure (high for some Homebrewers) A 2ft beer line would be a good starting place (but start longer you can always cut some off but you can't put back on). A matter of balance Calculating the ...


2

Unfortunately, none if this is ideal, but I guess you knew that! Leaving on the yeast cake for 2 months is clearly not an option, so really the only other option is to rack, and your keg is probably the best alternative you have. Over-priming (say with 300-400g of sugar) will mean you can try to expel some of the air and renewed activity of the yeast will ...


2

Could be any number of things. Style of beer, some styles require more/less carbonation and pressure. Could be a kink or something in the line that causes the beer to bubble/foam in the line on the way out. Maybe try hooking the keg up to one of your other faucets?


2

I would use a single 50ft stainless coil and then purchase the smallest cooler I could find that would house the coil and still have room for ice. I don't know anyone that has used a coil smaller than 50ft a 25ft coil may be sufficient but I can't say for sure. Good luck.


2

The regulator will give you a reading of the pressure inside the keg, but will not release the pressure the way a spunding valve would -- you'll have to do that manually.


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible