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7

My experience has shown that going through the beer out line doesn't change the rate the beer carbs up. Whether using the 'set and forget' process, or the high PSI and shake method. The bubbles coming out the bottom really aren't increasing the surface ratio enough for it to be significant. The bubbles just rush up to the surface. The downside to the ...


6

If you have added approximately the right amount of priming sugar and your beer is not carbonated at all, your problem probably is not the amount of sugar added. A common problem is inadequate mixing of the priming sugar in the batch, but this doesn't apply here because you indicate that you added sugar to each bottle individually. Other potential problems ...


5

You've made sugar wine, called kilju in Finland. It's also the precursor to rum, which is distilled from a wine made from sugar cane juice or molasses. It's safe to drink, but to everyone's taste.


5

Don't pin it. This is a cask practice, but not necessary in your corny keg and will reduce the carbonation. In fact, you can prime it (fully sealed), wait 14 days, put it in the fridge and tap it in a few hours; the pressure built up during priming will let it flow, at least for a gallon or two. After which, if you can't put CO2 on it, prime it again and ...


4

The other compounding factors are temperature changes and atmospheric pressure changes: as temperature changes the pressure inside the headspace will change, causing fewer if the temperature is lower or more bubbles if the temperature is higher to be released atmospheric pressure: changes in atmospheric pressure will cause more or less bubbles to be ...


4

Glass carboys are not rated for pressure, I would definitely not recommend trying it there. If fermenting or finishing in a metal vessel (like a corny keg), you can use a spunding valve to control the amount of pressure in the keg to force carbonation, similar to actively adding CO₂ to the keg to force carbonate after fermentation. It's a practice born out ...


4

Any way you take a sample (unless it's from a pressurized vessel with an outlet) will draw air in. As you suspect, it should be a small amount, and given that your beer A) may still be fermenting (which CO2 will help strip any introduced oxygen out of the beer) and B) definitely still has yeast in it (which will scavenge oxygen, as long as it's still alive), ...


4

In my experience, quick-disconnects such as this are entirely reliable for what you propose. In fact, it's more often than not that the hose barbs the QD's are connected to are what fails, rather than the QD's themselves. Safety-wise, it's no different than having anything else attached to the low-pressure side of your regulator. Anything beyond the on-off ...


3

You used the term "lagering", so if you are truly lagering, the answer is 'it depends'. If your beer is indeed a lager, then your yeast WILL be active....potentially down to freezing temperatures (if your yeast was treated kindly and your temperature lowering regimen was patient). I only make this point since things are moving very slowly at this stage and ...


3

'because I'm still getting extremely foamy pours two and three pours from the first, I don't think heat is the major cause of these problems.' I think you're right. If your fridge really is 32 deg. the foaming might be an issue of over-carbonation. Fully saturated, beer at 32 deg/12 PSI will be carbonated to 2.9 volumes (if you're dispensing with pure CO2, ...


3

It's not possible for CO2 to escape from the tap without pushing beer out as well. If there's a leak, it probably in the regulator, manifold, quick disconnects, or one of the kegs. Tighten all the clamps and connectors, and check your seals.


3

No, it's quite alright. CO₂ is heavier than O₂, and it's a very constrained pathway for O₂ diffusion. For just one day, it's totally fine. Heck, it'd probably be fine for weeks, honestly; even just a couple of PSI is nothing to sneeze at.


3

Generally: no; most homebrewer-scale fermentation and bright tanks are not rated for pressure, though it really depends on what sort of vessel you're using. Some people do ferment directly in a keg, and use a spunding valve to naturally retain CO₂ directly from the fermentation process, such that the beer can directly be served or bottled.


3

"At 10 °C and 5.6 atm, a cooled champagne bottle (V = 0.75 L) would contain ca. 9.5 g of dissolved carbon dioxide (Table 2) [3]. Once the bottle is opened the CO2 pressure falls to at most 1 atm. Solubility considerations dictate that at 10 °C no more than 1.7 g will remain dissolved, so roughly 8 g of CO2 must suddenly be set free. This quantity of CO2 ...


3

Most draft systems for homebrewers use just normal CO2. The beer gas of N2 and CO2 is used for 'nitro' dispense depending on the N2/CO2 ratio.


3

As brewchez stated it mostly for stouts with a nitro faucet in the homebrew world. But Beergas is preferred commercially if a tap run is really long. The Beergas allows them to push at much higher psi without overcarbonating beer along the way, for all styles of beer.


3

I have tested this personally and have not been able to record any perceivable differences in SG readings. Sometimes degassing will invigorate a slow ferment but nothing more than a good stir would. I do see your math behind the ABV increase and I still believe that to be true as well. Degassing is something you should be doing throughout primary and into ...


3

Its not impossible to know how much CO2 is dissolved in the beer. There are tools for measuring it. Many professional breweries use these tools because have an exact carbonation level is important to them. As homebrewers we don't normally buy these tools so we can make random measurements. That said. It is well known how many volumes of CO2 are dissolved ...


3

looks good, nothing to worry about On the sides, that's just the yeast and other particles falling back in and getting hung up. I've noticed it on that style of carboy more than smooth wall styles. Also if using starsan with water with high minerals and it air drys leaving a surface that things can cling to.


3

It's only been one week? Wait another week before trying another bottle. It often takes 2 weeks to carbonate in my experience. If that doesn't work, maybe you didn't use enough priming sugar. You need about 2 tablespoons priming sugar per gallon for good carbonation.


2

Getting metric to imperial is hard to find at the best of times. Finding one for a CO2 connector is going to be very unlikely. As gas connections are normally a speciality thread (often the opposite direction thread, turn clockwise to undo. This is so idiots don't try to screw a bolt in or something) Do a quick google to find the thread specs, and then ...


2

It's common to use 1/4" quick disconnect barbs and flange connectors (as shown in your photo) with a 5/8" gas hose. Just be sure to use either a worm clamp or oeteker clamp on the hose to keep it in place on the barb. Alternatively, you can get 5/8" barbs for the flange connector, but I'm not sure it's necessary.


2

Without knowing 100% what is available near you (saw that you are from the states which seems like a place where you can get almost anything from your local shop) there are hose-adapaters that you can buy, these are how they look in Sweden; Slangadapter. EDIT: After doing a bit of digging I found that they are typcally called 'Union Reducers' and can be ...


2

Original Source: BYO.com Balancing your Draft System: Advanced Brewing With: 3/16" beer lines Serving tap 2ft above the keg 5 PSI CO2 serving/dispensing pressure (high for some Homebrewers) A 2ft beer line would be a good starting place (but start longer you can always cut some off but you can't put back on). A matter of balance Calculating the ...


2

Unfortunately, none if this is ideal, but I guess you knew that! Leaving on the yeast cake for 2 months is clearly not an option, so really the only other option is to rack, and your keg is probably the best alternative you have. Over-priming (say with 300-400g of sugar) will mean you can try to expel some of the air and renewed activity of the yeast will ...


2

I had mine set up for 15 years and I haven't done anything more than use the clamps. Judging from that, that's enough.


2

That's a rather simplified set of guidelines for carbonation levels. Different styles have different historical ranges of volumes of CO₂. I'd start there (or from a similar source), and then use the PSI/temp/volumes table to find the right values.


2

The system sounds to be unbalanced. If the inner diameter of the chilling coil in the jockey box is different than the one you've used before then the resistance is certainly off creating the unbalanced performance. A lot of foam and sputtering output at the faucet is normally caused by too low a serving pressure. I'd say up the pressure and see what you ...


2

It's not necessarily fermentation causing the bubbles. Temp changes or other things can cause dissolved CO2 to come out if solution. That's almost certainly what you're seeing.


2

There's no need for an airlock. By the time you get to cold crashing, fermentation is done so the need for an airlock is gone. I seal the fermenter using a solid stopper before cold crashing.


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