10

Easily put, chill haze is the result of haze-producing proteins that reside in the beer. They do not react unless chilled, at which point they clump together. At that point, they become visible enough to reflect light. Since the particulates are white in color, they give the appearance of haze. These proteins are slightly heavier than the beer, so given ...


6

Usually the biggest concerns of a slow chill are.... DMS (cooked corn flavor) is created from SMM when wort is hot. DMS will form until below 140°F (60°C). SMM is boiled off during boil, it's why we do an open lid boil. SMM has a half life of 37 minutes. 90minute boils usually reduce SMM levels below the perception threshold. Unwanted bittering late ...


5

I start by saving the hottest water in my sink, to be used for cleaning the immersion chiller and other items post-brew. Once I have enough there, I save the water in buckets to be used for watering plants inside and out. Once the wort temperature drops to 120-130 F I switch over to a closed system. I have a small picnic cooler with a submersible pump in it, ...


5

If you are going to use a cube for No Chilling, I just don't see any reason not to follow the vetted No Chill doctrine of the Aussies, which says, very clearly "Do not be tempted to cool the cube prematurely". Hundreds of Aussie brewers pioneered this technique, and its "common knowledge" in that group that you can mess up and catch an infection in the cube ...


5

It would help in a couple ways if you gently stirred the wort with a sanitized spoon as it cools. First, it will make it cool faster. Second, you'll get homogenous wort so you'll get an accurate temp reading no matter where you check it.


5

It will always work, the difference is how much time we save or not. My 25' 1/4" wort chiller works better than I expected, 15 minutes to cool 5 gallons. Your 30' 3/8" should work very well, 15 to 20 minutes maximum I would guess.


4

The simple, easy way to get rid of chill haze is to cold condition the beer for a couple months.


4

Plastics are a very controversial issue, and it is unlikely that we'll have a clear consensus on longterm safety anytime soon. Some plastics are unambiguously unfit for food use (especially at high temperatures), while others are likely fine. Generally speaking, the safest plastic container for no chill brewing would be a HDPE without plasticizers. If you ...


4

I stop chilling my ales when the surface temp/outlet pipe is about 21 degrees C. It takes me about 40 minutes to chill 50 litres from boiling 100C down to 21C, so I guess in total I give the beer about an hour to settle after the boil is finished before draining into the ferm bins. Cheers!


4

Ya know what? In reality, it just doesn't matter. I drop the same old funky immersion chiller I've been using for years into the wort. Then I take the output hose from my pump and clamp it to the side of the kettle, pointing kinda sideways below wort level. It's equally as effective as a friend's setup that's similar to a couple of your designs. Don't ...


4

Dissolving CO2 takes time. Area of contact between gas and liquid in bottle is really small. Thus, I doubt that few minutes would really help carbonate much. Of course, this is not totally pointless. By chilling fast, you can maximize time at optimal temperature. But use this as a step before putting bottle to fridge for a night, not instead. Last but not ...


4

I would oxygenate (pure O2) right before or after the pitch. Just because the process has the chance to introduce bacteria or wild yeast and it's best if the yeast is there to become dominate before anything else. Aeration has much less risk, if just splashing or shaking the wort. I don't think this would matter much when it's done.


3

No unless the 25' is the maximum submerged surface area possible. Even then a 50' half submerged would only function as 25' anyways. Half the length of tubing would never be twice as effecient of a tubing with same diameter and liner surface area. Ideally you will have as much submerged surface area as possible. That being said. If the temperature of the ...


3

In my experience, I never get a trub cone with the chiller in place. And I don't think you will. Too much turbulence as the wort whirlpools for a nice clean pot centered cone of trub. Of course the turbulence leads to great chilling via a great turnover of wort volume and surface area contact with the chiller. I only get a nice cone in a standard pot ...


3

The downsides as far as I can see are (in descending order of severity) 1) Possible toxicity of the plastic. 2) Recipe alterations due to the continued elevated temps after the boil is over. 3) Risk for contamination. Right now, the current thinking is that "food safe", "heat resistant" HDPE plastics are OK for No Chilling. I am personally content enough ...


3

Regular Polypropylene will release mild to moderate toxins at high temperatures. While Polypropylene (PP) is food-grade safe at room temperatures, and commonly used for containers (arguably safe for chilled wort according to comments in the previous link), the Energy Working Group gives it a "low" rating for overall hazard. My recommendation, don't use it ...


3

I can't comment on the safety of the material, but I can say that No Chilling does not really work if you try to drop the wort temps down before adding the liquid. When the wort goes into the tank, it is the fact that the wort is very close to 100C/212F that guarantees against infection while its sealed. The super-hot wort does a wet pasteurization of all ...


2

I liked the simple answer, it was very informative. The most fun way to get rid of chill haze is to pour the home brew into an opaque container, and drink it.


2

I have a copper wort-chiller as well, but before I had it, I used ice to cool my beer. I would sterilize Pyrex glass containers, and put boiled-and-cooled water in them, and into the freezer a few days before brewing. I would put the pot in a sink full of cold water, and put the ice from the container into the pot (not the whole container). I just topped ...


2

It comes down to your sanitation and process. You want to be filling those cubes hot. This means above 190ºF. This will, to a significant degree, sanitize the inside of the container and ensure that you'll be able to store it for a reasonable period of time. Many no chill brewers go for weeks or even months before pitching yeast.


2

It's a fine idea. The nice thing about the "traditional" approach is that the surfaces that touch the wort are exposed, easily cleaned, and can be inspected for cleanliness. Plus, as someone commented, you'll need a pump to move the wort through the IC, which is another complication and something else to clean. For a long time, I did something similar (and ...


2

Slowing down the stream might help conserve some (the water stays in the pipe longer and heats up more); but often people find a use for the water instead. One suggestion is to send your hose into a washing machine to pre-fill it. I use it to top up the garden pond. Yes it is very warm at the beginning but dilutes easily (no boiled fish!) as the pond is ...


2

It's related to both....given cold and warm temps and the same amount of time, the cold liquid will absorb more. Same temp, more time for CO2 to dissolve into solution, the one with more time will have better carbonation.


2

No that is not chill haze. It is a mixture of yeast, hops, and proteins that form from the hot and cold break. I agree it looks like you have some Starsan in your batch. I learned early swap the blow off tube for a airlock before you cold crash. Once active fermentation starts you will see all kinds of floating yeast and stiring going on. It's really my ...


2

Some brewers chill their wort overnight, using the No Chill Method, so in principle you could do variation of that, but use your fridge to get the wort chilled quicker. For this to work you need to ensure 2 things: The wort is above 180F so that it sanitizes the container. The container can be voided of air. The usual way is to use a squeezable cube and ...


2

Summary: Immersion chillers have diminishing returns on length. The first foot of tube does more work than any other foot of tube. The last foot does the least. An immersion chiller is a specific example of a device called a heat exchanger. As an engineer I took classes in heat transfer and heat exchanger design. Although I can explain exactly why ...


2

How are you assembling it? If you're just dropping the coil into hot water for its HERMS function, then there's no reason you couldn't dump it into hot wort with cold water running through it to chill. If, on the other hand, you're mounting the coil permanently into the hot water bath for the HERMS, then you're going to have a hard time chilling with it. ...


2

It is totally up to you. Whirlpool isn't even necessary. I've only done it once I think out of 150 batches. If done hot, you'll get more IBUs, equivalent to as though you had boiled all the hops for about an extra 5-10 minutes. If done cold, no risk of that. So, it depends on what you want, and maybe on what recipe you're brewing. In an IPA, maybe you ...


1

In theory yes, but for most if not all homebrewers it's technically not feasible. Why? The total heat exchange, in this case, is a sum of heat exchanged by conduction and convection. The conduction part, roughly saying, is only a function of coil material , temperature difference between the surface and the bulk fluid (dT), surface area and specific heat ...


1

To go along with winwaeds answer flow is usually really over done by most. I made my own immersion chiller, when I did I built in two temp probes. What I found is that I could reduce the flow to a trickle about 0.5 gallons per minute was optimal for my chiller, more flow didn't pull any more heat off. So basically very little water really needs to be used. ...


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