The main difference is the yeast, Ale is brewed with a top fermenting yeast s.cerevisiae whereas Lager is brewed with a bottom fermenting yeast s.pastorianus. From this comes the fermentation temperature, ales are fermented at higher temperatures(14-20 C) than lager(10-12 C).
A lager you would also allow to warm towards the end of the primary ...
As I understand it, this term comes from the wine world, where it refers to the patterns the glycerine makes on the inside of the glass. Glycerine (glyceryl alcohol or glycerol) is decidedly thicker than ethanol or water, so it forms a clear syrupy ring from which droplets or streamers trail down toward the surface of the beverage.
Here's an image of leggy ...
Like fire.eagle said, I think the BJCP style guideline is what you are looking for. This is what nearly all home brew competitions use when judging beer.
You can also look at the Great American Beer Festival's style guidelines. They break beers out into more categories than the BJCP.
Yes you can. In fact I did it a few times myself, blending too dark beers for my taste with some lighter beers to create the perfect depth.
But, if the mixed beers use different yeast strains, it is possible they both have different attenuation levels. The yeast from one beer can continue to ferment the sugars of the other beer. Fermentation starts again ...
I'm not sure you're going to find anything besides recipes that are especially prescriptive about what goes in to the beer. Check out BeerSmith, BrewToad, and other sites to find some recipes. They will give you some concrete examples of grain bills for a style.
If you're looking for something more broad, check out the BJCP style guidelines, especially the ...
The only consideration that comes into bottle choice really is serving size and glass strength due to carbonation levels. (Some highly carbonated styles see thicker glass for safety reasons.)
Then there is bottles that will accept corks. Across all the different styles I've encountered in corked bottles I can't say its specific to any style. Again you see ...
In addition to Mr_Roads answer.
Lager yeast is unique from ale yeast in that it can breakdown and use melibiose, which is a sugar not fermentable by ale yeasts. This is one reason lagers are generally "cleaner" in mouth feel and residual sweetness over ales with the same recipe.
Congratulations on your first brew!
I would suggest putting the ingedient details into some brew software many are free in the form of phone apps or web based. Give it a Google.
The limited information you have given isn't enough to go on. We need malt type and amount, batch volume, hop weight, age and boil duration of hops to even guess a style based on ...
For starters they are different styles of beers.
Light lagers have a much lighter mouthfeel almost watery. Cheap commercial versions supplement the mash with corn or rice to keep the ABV high but calories down resulting in Light malt profile.
A Regular Lager like Old English or Budweiser have less adjuncts like corn or rice and more true malted grains ...
Simply put, there are two overarching umbrellas in beer... ales and lagers. An IPA is an ale. GENERALLY speaking all beers fit under one of these two umbrellas. Once under one of these umbrellas the main difference is brewing technique. Even if you use the exact same ingredients and technique between a beer with ale yeast and the other with lager yeast, one ...
I would use a Cream Ale yeast, it's actually a blend of lager and ale yeast but ferments well at 65°-70°.
Historically cream ales were made to compete with crisp American lagers.
Many use California yeast (White Labs WL001) or similar for October style beers as it's about the cleanest of ale yeasts and has minimal esters when you use a larger than normal ...
Here is the 2015 BJCP description which a dunkleweisse is judged against.
A moderately dark German wheat beer with a distinctive banana-and-clove yeast character, supported by a toasted bread or caramel malt flavor. Highly carbonated and refreshing, with a creamy, fluffy texture and light finish that encourages drinking.
Moderate phenols (...
Anything "Noble" that's not a typical American hop like Cascade/Centenial/Chinook/Columbus etc. I'd use Hallertaur, Spalt, Tett, Vanguard, Perle, etc. Basically any of the classic German hops, or their modern equivalent.
Honestly in those styles, you just want a touch of hop bitterness to cut the sweetness of the malt. Not many of those beers present much ...
As a home brewer, I consider the style an IPA but it is characterized by the following:
Little or no early additions of hops to the boil, 60/30 minutes. (Mash hopping is okay).
A heavy late addition of hops to the boil kettle, 15 minutes and below. This can also include hop stands while the wort is cooling, like adding hops when the wort temperature gets ...
According to an article on vinepair:
"New England IPAs are beers that are purposely hazy or cloudy, which can give these brews a smooth, creamy mouthfeel – a departure from the light/dry mouthfeel you often get with West Coast IPAs – with little to no hop bitterness at the end utilizing hops that impart a tropical, juicy sweetness rather than the classic ...
I'm with everyone else. 5-7 days.
To get that super hoppy aroma though, I've only been able to get that by using a hop back with first-wort and dry-hopping (clone W. Coast ipa, greenflash). For less than $30 I built a hop back and filtered the wort through loose leaf hops of the same or similar variety I was already pellet-hopping, just prior to chilling, ...
Trial and error.
There is no definite answer. I haven't achieved yet great aroma, so far dry hopped in primary in last couple days. I would add 5 oz per 10gl.
Read an article saying its better to dry hop it in keg or closed vessel. Aromas can escape with CO2.
Most all lagers if you can lager for months you can have some great beer.
Fruit Cream Ales are nice for summer, can be done as ales or lagers, often mixed fermentation with both ale and Lager yeasts.
Steer away from hoppy beers as this flavor and aroma is first to fade with age. Brew these in the final weeks of your events.
Malty beers meld great with ...
These yeast started out with a similar roots s.cerevisiae and diverged some time around the 15th Century, when it is thought to have hybridized with a new world yeast(Saccharomyces eubayanus). It is then likely that the yeast harvesting methods of different brewing techniques progressively selected for more specific varieties.
In British and similar ...
They are two different species: Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Saccharomyces pastorianus. They both do the same thing--convert sugar into alcohol--but they thrive in different conditions.
The main difference is that lager yeasts continue to function at almost-freezing temperatures, while ale yeasts go dormant.
The terms 'top-fermenting' and 'bottom-...
If you can lay your hands on a Kveik strain, you can make a Norwegian farmhouse ale. Kveik yeast ferments in temperatures up to even 40°C with comparatively little off aromas.
A Saison strain will feel alright in a slightly lower temperature spectrum, up to 30°C, maybe slightly over.
As farmersteve said that bottle isn't going to work for carbonating. You need a bottle that will be air tight, and to add a priming sugar.
Cloudy is to be expected from 100% wheat.
About the citrus balance, I think the 1.24oz / 36gm of peel was fine. And the amount of grain was good. You just had poor effenciency.
Your OG is about half what it should have ...
You can brew a saission as suggested by other users, but with HotHead from Omega labs you can brew clean flavoured sytles up to far higher temps:
I advise looking at HotHead from Omega Labs: http://www.omegayeast.com/portfolio/14158-2/
Temperature Range: 62-98° F (16-37° C)
Alcohol Tolerance: 11% ABV
It is ...
Wheat beers (hefeweizen/wit) are considered to be particularly good for beginners for the following reasons:
They're expected to have fairly high ester and phenol profiles, which can
mask other undesirable flavours.
They can tolerate a fairly wide range of fermentation temperatures,
and the higher end of the range gives more of the banana/bubble gum
Graham's answer is good. I'd add Saaz to the list. I just won a gold medal for a Belgian Blonde with Hallertau and Saaz.
23 liter batch. (25 IBUs - Tinseth)
.5 oz Magnum for bittering.
.5 oz of Hallertau at :10.
.5 oz of Saaz at :05.
You probably want to get "Brew Like a Monk" by Stan Hieronymus.
an american milk stout
maybe a sour beer.
Brett beers, but brett, may eat some of the sweetner or convert them into unknowns....with weird flavors....(recently i found out brett ferments lactose and some hop compounds.)
Im sure there are others, but those are the ones that came to mind.
Simply put you have a perfect situation for lager brewing and lager yeast strains.
Its easy to warm up a fermentor to reduce sulfur or diacetyl should the ferment not get strong enough to either off gas or clean up those compounds during the ferment.
I'd suggest staying away from some of the more characterful ale strains (Saison, Hefe, Wit, English and ...
Most beers/yeasts will ferment at 13C - it is just that they will do it much more slowly and the more aromatic compounds like "fruity esters" may not be produced in such concentrations at lower temps. However 13 is not a very low temperature. Lager yeast can ferment at temperature as low a 5C. But it tends to take a few months at that temperature to make a ...
The most effective way to experiment with various ingredients is to make up a larger amount of base wort, split it into sufficient parts to use with various ingredients and ferment. When all is completed it is then possible to directly compare the effect of any addition or ingredient by tasting one sample against another. I have found there is a reduced ...
I'd suggest reading "Experimental Homebrew" by Denny Conn and Drew Beechum. It's all there. Another good source might be Brulosophy blog.
There's nothing bad/boring at trying to create a "clone" btw. See "Can You Brew It" podcast. Creating a perfect clone of a famous beer is actually difficult and requires a lot of research and experiments, i.e. it's not ...