Hot answers tagged

13

Not at all. Technically, you may be losing an absolutely, immeasurably tiny amount of alcohol, but it would have to vaporize from the beer, absorb or condense into whatever liquid is in your airlock and then vaporize out the other side. But practically speaking (which is what's really important) you'll never have to worry about this in an air-locked vessel....


10

Just clean it up and replace the airlock sanitizer fluid. If you have a second airlock just prep it and swap. If not just cover with sanitized foil while cleaning.


8

Seconds are nothing. I remember a long time ago coming home to a carboy that blew it's bung one evening, must have been exposed for hours. It never got infected. As an example, think of how long your beer is exposed from the time it goes from your bucket/carboy to the bottling bucket, and into bottles, hopefully without infection (at that point though, it'...


8

Looks just like yeast to me. If foam rushed into your airlock, this is really probable. Sugars are dissolved and you won't see them as a layer. I would replace the airlock with clean one - that way, you wouldn't have to worry what it actually is.


8

At what temperature did you eventually mashed? Not sure how it works out with BIAB, but adding grains to a regular mash (even less volume compared to BIAB), the temperature only drops a few °C's. My guess is that if you added the grains at 80°C, you mashed at around 76/77°C. This is way too high, but 72°C is also too high. Mash temps range from 62-70C°, ...


7

Seal the beer off from oxygen as soon as possible. If you decide to use the airlock, use sanitized water only. If you have access to CO2, put a layer of the gas over your beer as soon as possible (then close it off). If you've achieved your desired final gravity and you don't need to let it sit in the fermenter any longer, you could also bottle it or keg it ...


7

Question 1 is hard to answer because its so dependent on the relative humidity and air flow of the room in question. I wouldn't assume an airlock with water would be safe for more than 4 weeks without checking on it or topping it off. Vodka is sometimes recommended as an airlock liquid, but I think its is a bad idea for long-term storage. Being roughly a 50/...


7

It's fine. I assume the beer is still actively fermenting, in which case not only will freshly-produced CO₂ (somewhat) displace the O₂ in the headspace, but the yeast can still clean up any O₂ that does dissolve into the young beer. Many high-gravity beers actually forcibly inject O₂ during the early stages of fermentation to get a solid ferment. RDWHAHB.


7

If fermenting in a corney keg you will never yield 5 gallons of finished beer. If 5 gallons finished beer is the goal use 6-6.5 carboys and brew 5.5-6 gallons of beer. Primary yeast cake easily takes 1/3 gallon, secondary can be a little less. Allow a good 1/2 gallon loss of dry hopping. Headspace is how you will limit blow off loss. If filling a corney ...


7

Generally speaking it is safer to remove, clean/sterilise and replace the airlock. It should only take 30 seconds and the vent hole can be covered with an inverted glass to prevent any accidental ingress. If you have a spare airlock (they are cheap enough) then you can prepare and replace the offending item almost instantly. One could possibly leave the bug ...


7

This is caused by a drop in temp before co2 is being produced. Just cap the fermenter in sanitized foil until you're past the lag phase, or cooled to fermentaion temp. Though a little bit of starsan won't hurt much, foil is better than an open airlock IMO. I don't put air locks on until the wort is at fermentaion temp. I also remove the airlock then foil ...


5

If you didn't pitch yeast from an actively fermenting starter, 24 hours is a perfectly reasonable lag time. But if you really are seeing a thick kräusen atop your beer, it sounds like there's just a leak around the airlock. What are you fermenting in? A bucket with a lid gives plenty of opportunity for leaks around the edges. I'd be more concerned if it were ...


5

The only issue with the grommet falling in is possible contamination depending on if there were any organisms on it (probably) and how strong your ferment is - sounds like you're at low or high krausen so you should be ok. The larger your yeast population and stronger it is, the greater chance they'll outcompete anything that gets in there at this stage. You ...


5

Alcohol Losses from Entrainment in Carbon Dioxide Evolved during Fermentation H. W. Zimmermann, E. A. Rossi Jr. and E. Wick + Author Affiliations Research and Development, United Vintners, Asti, California Abstract Total losses of alcohol entrained in CO2 in laboratory experiments were shown to increase with: temperature of fermentation, alcohol level of ...


5

Totally normal. C02 is SLOWLY pushing the water to the opposite side of the lock. As fermentation starts to really kick in, you'll see much more movement and "bubbling" in the airlock.


5

It will probably be OK. The smaller the bore of the tube, the greater the tendency will be for any bubbles to push the liquid right out. You could just make a blow-off instead by submerging the venting end of the tube in a vessel full of water.


5

If you were getting beer/yeast coming out of your airlock, it seems safe to say your beer was fermenting, perhaps quite vigorously. It's not uncommon for a beer to ferment completely within a few days, so that signs of active fermentation will almost completely disappear. This may be what has happened. Or it could be that in replacing the airlock, you maybe ...


5

It usually happens with strong fermentation when the krausen clogs the airlock, it is then ejected with the pressure. If the fermentation was still active when you returned, the beer might not be contaminated due to gas escaping the container. What makes you think it is contaminated? Is there anything unusual floating on the surface? You can always add ...


4

The other compounding factors are temperature changes and atmospheric pressure changes: as temperature changes the pressure inside the headspace will change, causing fewer if the temperature is lower or more bubbles if the temperature is higher to be released atmospheric pressure: changes in atmospheric pressure will cause more or less bubbles to be ...


4

No, I don't think the fill level on an airlock is going to prevent bubbling. Short answer, but I don't think there is more to it. Edit: I found time to respond in more detail. I experienced the same thing (no bubbling, but pressing on lid squeezes out bubbles) in two-gallon bucket fermenters, so I looked carefully at the airlocks to see if over- or under-...


4

The inward pressure is caused by the temperature of the air in the carboy being colder than the air outside and/or increases in atmospheric pressure - both will cause the pressure inside the carboy to be less than the pressure outside. This doesn't indicate that there is anything wrong with your brew.


4

Short answer: sure, that is fine and jsled is absolutely right. Long answer: the other thing to consider is just don't bother with blowoff, which I assume is the reason for the bleach water setup, and just use an airlock. I think being really concerned with blowoff is probably a side-effect of following old Charlie Papazian instructions or people who ...


4

Removing your airlock will most likely not ruin your beer, at least not right away. I remove the lid of my fermentor to take a specific gravity reading from time to time, and I never ruined a batch doing so. If I drop anything in my fermenting bucket, specialy at an early stage, I would use a sanitized spoon to take it out. Sanitize anything that will ...


4

No way to really know. For sure it will be more oxidized. It will be a flaw in taste, but no one can know how big one. Real danger is with flood. Flood promotes mold, and other bad microorganisms. We can't know if some is in your wine, and how much alcohol was there when it got contaminated, if it was. Worst case? Little alcohol, sourness, "toilet" taste, ...


4

I think the likelihood of a batch getting contaminated this way is pretty low. Certainly be careful with cleaning and replacing the airlock. But generally speaking the airlock serves as a blocker for air exchange. If the airlock did become contaminated, the contaminants would still need to work their through the airlock and into the fermenter, which isn't ...


4

I use this style. I press them all the way down to the lip. Wet or dry they stay put. Take a little work and patience to get out though.


3

Your beer is almost certainly fine, and you don't need to do anything except fill the airlock with water, and attach it to the fermenter. The release of CO2 in the fermenting beer creates positive pressure within the fermenter, which will help keep out oxygen and spoilage organisms. After fermentation is complete, it's possible for gas and bugs to enter ...


3

RDWHAHB. Your beer is probably fine. Gases generally flow out during primary fermentation, not draw in. If you want to leave the beer in primary for a while, put some water in the airlock. If you want to rack to secondary, rack. Now actually might be a good time to take a hydrometer sample. Taste the sample to convince yourself that your beer is OK.


3

The beer should be fine. With the yeast active like it is, bacteria and wild yeast would have a very hard time establishing a foothold. Brief exposure to the atmosphere should not affect your beer.


3

Fermented beer contains somewhere around 0.8 volumes of CO₂. When you rack to secondary, you're certainly causing some (however minimal) agitation of the beer, which will cause some CO₂ to be released. You may also be changing temperature, which might cause some CO₂ to be released. And dry-hopping is going to give tons of nucleation sites for CO₂, which will ...


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