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A fermented beverage where the majority of the fermentable sugars are derived from malted grains via mashing.

3
votes
I like brewing lawnmower ales, with recycled yeast (sometimes more than one strain) and leftover hops. Just because it's always a cheap brew day that gives me beer everybody (including the AB drinkers) likes. And it always has a different off-flavor, mint, citrus, etc. …
answered Nov 12 '10 by PMV
3
votes
I've had some damn good partial boiled homebrews, and some nasty full boils, so I don't think you're going to see a huge quality difference either way, just as long as you're not scorching or anything …
answered Nov 11 '10 by PMV
0
votes
If you want to go a step even easier than ale, you can make cider. They just take a little longer to properly condition.
answered Nov 12 '10 by PMV
8
votes
Brown bottles are you best bet, they block the most amount of skunkyness causing UV. There is no benefit to using a clear or green bottle other than you might already have them hanging around, and people might feel like they're drinking a certain style beer if you serve it in the bottle. …
answered Nov 10 '10 by PMV
0
votes
The advantage you get from the propane burner is a harder boil. You brew on any stove that can boil water (my wort usually starts boiling at about 215F, almost water's boiling temp). However, if you …
answered Nov 16 '10 by PMV
2
votes
If you're looking for a big aroma rather than hop notes, I'd add more like 2-4 ozs depending on what you're looking for. IMO Cascades are great for dry hopping though.
answered Nov 11 '10 by PMV
9
votes
In general, your beer will be pretty forgiving. I once dropped a strainer into my fermenter when it was late and I was tired. So I rolled up my sleeve and grabbed it bare handed. My hands were …
answered Nov 24 '10 by PMV
2
votes
all of the living yeast before bottling, or somehow killed them with big temperature fluctuations. The first time I had this issue was the first time I force carbonated a beer and kegged it. But you … could also pour all of your beer back into your bottling bucket, repitch new yeast then rebottle. I'd caution against adding more sugar though, you don't want to over carbonate or have explosions. …
answered Nov 10 '10 by PMV
2
votes
I can't get a pumpkin ale clean with only a secondary for the life of me. Next batch I plan on using a tertiary. Just be careful with splashing, I've been careless and oxidized the hell out of an otherwise good beer before. …
answered Nov 16 '10 by PMV
5
votes
/oxyclean solution. Put it somewhere out of the way. When you're done with a beer, put the bottle in the bucket. Within a couple of days the labels should just float to the top. …
answered Nov 11 '10 by PMV
32
votes
All grain is cheaper (in the not-so-long run), you get way more flexibility on your grain bill and mash, I'd argue it's more fun, and it's really easy to do.
answered Nov 9 '10 by PMV
2
votes
A wort chiller is something you use to cool your hot wort to pitching temperature. A copper coil submersion chiller is a pretty common type of wort chiller for home brewers. In addition to what jsle …
answered Jan 10 '11 by PMV
4
votes
I always thought this was a helpful chart for hops, don't know the original source though. http://i.imgur.com/UG3MRAT.jpg
answered Nov 10 '10 by PMV
0
votes
Make a low gravity lawnmower larger and add some tart fruit flavoring (pear maybe?) If she hates it, rdwhahb, lawnmowers are incredibly cheap to make.
answered Nov 16 '10 by PMV
0
votes
I'm thinking you must have some sort of leak or crack in your cooler. I use one of those orange home depot coolers and it maintains a very consistent temp while mashing. Maybe try filling it up with …
answered Nov 14 '10 by PMV

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