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I'm about to brew a 5lb batch, I don't really know exactly the step when should we add corn sugar though. Also, I'm wondering that once I'm done boiling and adding DME, yeast, hop, etc.. then shall I cover my bottle with the lid and an airlock as well as taking a sample to pour into the test-jar? I don't think the beer in bottle and jar have the same condition to be the same. That's all I need to know for my very first time and holidays coming, so, please help me as soon as possible, I really appreciate you all. Have a good one.

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  • Is this an all-grain or only DME? Please post the complete recipe.
    – Philippe
    Oct 23 '18 at 18:13
  • You should take a look at www.howtobrew.com
    – Philippe
    Oct 23 '18 at 18:13
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I think you mean a 5 gallon batch (19 L)? I don't know your specific recipe, but the corn sugar is usually for priming the bottles for carbonation after the beer is done. So you would boil your extract and hops, cool it down and put it in your jar or bucket for fermentation, add the yeast, and wait a week or two for it to be done. After all that, when the yeast is done fermenting, you would add the corn sugar to the beer and then bottle and cap it. The extra bit of sugar you're adding is for the yeast to wake up and eat and turn into CO2 in the bottle.

If your test jar is to take a sample to make a gravity measurement, you'd take that before you add the yeast. It is very informative and recommended to take a gravity sample, but not required.

Happy home brewing. Reply back with any questions you have.

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  • Sometimes corn sugar is also added at the same time as DME...
    – Philippe
    Oct 23 '18 at 18:15
  • @Philippe, I agree, but unfortunately his question did not provide enough detail to figure that out. I made the assumption that since he said it was his first batch, and that it sounded to me like he was working from a kit, that the corn sugar would be the supplied priming sugar.
    – Dave
    Oct 23 '18 at 18:41
  • Thank you for your helping. I really appreciate it, this exactly what I'm finding.
    – Cristian
    Oct 29 '18 at 3:31
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I'm relatively new to the homebrew game. I have a few batches under my belt. The following is some advice I can give on Extract brewing

Before you even get started, make sure that you have your hops measured out and set aside. this way when its time to add them to the boil, you will be all set and wont have to worry about spending time getting them ready and risk missing the time mark to add them.

What you want to do is get your water heated up to about 155 degrees F. and slowly add your dry extract (DME) into the water. As you doing this make sure that you mix the DME in with a spoon or a whisk. I prefer a whisk as it mixes in the DME much better than a spoon (you may want to have a helper here to pour the DME in while you stir or vice-versa). As you are adding the DME you may get some clumpy chunks. If this happens stop pouring the DME and continue stiring until all the clumps are gone. Once they are gone continue pouring the extract. If your using Liquid Extract then the clumps should not be a problem but you still want to stir in the contents to avoid scorching.

Once all the extract is in, bring your water up to a boil and add the hops at the times indicated by the recipe. I'm not sure exactly what recipe your using but a lot of brews have a 60 minute boil. with hop additions at the beginning, 15,30, and 45 minutes in. But that could be different for your recipe.

Once your boil is complete, have an Ice bath ready (sink filled with ice and water) and place the boil pot in the ice bath. If you plan on doing home-brewing more regularly, I would suggests investing in Wort Chiller. but for now the Ice bath will do. It will just take longer to get your wort down to a safe temperature to pitch the yeast.

At this point it is very important that anything that the wort touches needs to be sanitized. This includes any spoons, siphons, airlocks, siphon hose and fermentors or carboys.

Once the wort is cooled down to 65-70 degrees F siphon the wort from the boil pot into a carboy or fermentation jug

If you have a Hydrometer, you can take a hydrometer reading before adding the wort to the fermentor. This reading will be your original gravity. It should read something like 1.045 but again this totally depends on the type of beer your doing.

Once the wort is in the fermentor or carboy insert the siphon hose in the airlock hole about 1-2 inches above the wort. insert the other end of the hose into a bucket of sanitizer. This is called a blow-off tube. It will allow you to monitor the first stages of fermentation. Bubbles will rapidly appear in the bucket of sanitizer over a 24-48 hour period. after about 24-48 hours the bubbles will start to subside. Once they subside to about 2-3 per minute, remove the siphon hose from the airlock hole and insert the airlock in. be sure to fill the airlock with a bit of sanitizer.

Now your fermentor is ready to sit for about 2 weeks.

After 2 weeks, its time to bottle. At this point you can take another hydrometer reading if you have a hydrometer. This reading will be your final gravity. If you have the original gravity and final gravity number, you will be able to determine the ABV of your beer. Search the web for ABV calculators.

Now that your ready to bottle, this is where the sugar comes into play. before you do anything take the sugar and dissolve it in some boiling water. generally I use about 3/4 cup of water and 4-5 oz of sugar. This can be different for the style of beer and the type of sugar your using. Click Here for a good calculator to determine how much sugar to dissolve

Once the sugar is dissolved, cool it down and pour it into a separate pot or bucket that is large enough to hold your wort. Siphon the wort into this pot or bucket. Remember make sure that all these things that touch the wort are properly sanitized.

Some people stir the sugar around. I advise against this as you risk adding unnecessary oxygen to the beer. as long as you siphon the wort into this jug the wort will mix into the sugar just fine.

Once all the wort is in the pot or bucket, get your bottles and caps ready by sanitizing them. Now its time to start racking the beer in the bottle.

Using the siphon and a racking cane (that should be provided with your kit), insert the cane into the bottle until it touches the bottom. Release the pinch clip and let the bottle fill up until it reaches the top of the bottle. Once it reaches the top, press the pinch clip to stop the beer flow and remove the racking cane from the bottle. The removal of the cane should give you just enough headroom in the bottle to provide optimum space for the carbination that will be made from the priming sugar.

Repeat this process until all your bottles are filled or the beer runs out (hopfully it will be the latter).

Cap the bottles and place them in a cool (65-70 degree F) place. Try to avoid storing them in direct sunlight. I usually keep mine downstairs in my basement closet.

After about 1-2 weeks the beer should be ready to drink. place a few (or all) in a fridge and enjoy.

I hope that this will help you.

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  • thank you so much, it helps me a lot. Cheers
    – Cristian
    Oct 29 '18 at 3:30

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