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I brewed a DDH NEIPA recently and it was a great learning experience.

I got the aromatics I was looking for but the flavor was bitter. The batch was bound to be wonky because of size limitations because I could only brew a 3-gallon batch on a stovetop. The final beer was SUPER cloudy and had some sediment in it and when bottling a lot ended up settling out of the beer.

Primary fermentation was at 72°F then down to 68-66°F then sat at 64-62°F during dry hopping. This was all done in a cool midwest basement with low humidity.

Overall the beer wasn't quite a NEIPA, not really juicy and had sediment.

My question is what variables should I tweak to produce a better result, with less bitterness and smoother body, on my second attempt?


Recipe Details:

BREW INFO:

Brew Method: BIAB

Batch Size: 3 gallons (ending kettle volume)

Boil Size: 3 gallons

Boil Gravity: 1.060

Efficiency: 65% (ending kettle)

YEAST:

Wyeast - London Ale III 1318

Starter: No

Form: Liquid

FERMENTABLES:

6 lb - American - Pale Ale

0.6 lb - Flaked Wheat

0.6 lb - Flaked Oats

0.4375 lb - American Carapils

HOPS:

El Dorado [15.7% AA]

Citra [11% AA]

Galaxy [14.25% AA]

BOIL:

Mashed at 149°F for 60 minutes

HOPS SCHEDULE:

FWH 0.15 oz El Dorado, Citra, Galaxy

40 minutes whirlpool 0.2 oz El Dorado, Citra, Galaxy

20 minutes whirlpool 0.45 oz El Dorado, Citra, Galaxy

20 minutes whirlpool is shut off 0.6 oz El Dorado, Citra, Galaxy

DH for 8 days with 0.65 oz El Dorado, Citra, Galaxy

DH for 4 days with 1 oz El Dorado, Citra, Galaxy


List of Possible Pain Points

  • Efficiency miscalculated
  • The total amount of hops was too high
  • Dry hopped for too long
  • Too much yeast for the batch size
  • Hops scaled incorrectly (should I have used the total AA% to scale?)
  • Lack of a cold crash
  • Grain bill was miscalculated
  • FWH could have been too low/high
  • Get a finer mesh hop bag (I had the white one from Northern Brewer)
  • Split hops into smaller bags per variety

These are just the issues I've drawn up/done some research on but I'm not too sure what the main culprit could be.

  • Do you have the alpha acid contents of the hops too? Without that it is difficult to assess what the final bitterness is. – chthon Jul 9 '18 at 17:49
  • @chthon Updated the post with the AA information. – Ovaryraptor Jul 9 '18 at 19:44
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    Please define better, what parameters do you wish to alter? Is it just bitterness and sedimentation both of which you wish to reduce? – Mr_road Jul 10 '18 at 8:54
  • Also, boil and mash is defined in the same step. They are normally defined separately. Usually this means first, mash 60-90 min, then optionally lauter and then boil 60-90 mins. – Martin Jul 10 '18 at 12:50
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Less bitterness - I would drop some of the interim hop additions, I would stick with the FWH just to reduce foaming, and I would eliminate the 40min 0.2oz and 20 min 0.45 oz additions. If you want more flavour just up your dry hopping to get the flavours and aromas from the oils without the bitterness from the isomerised alpha acids.

And to further reduce bitterness if this is not enough then switch the FWH from 11-14%AA hops to a lower 3-5% hop variety.

Also, did you do an iodine test on your mash at 60min to ensure full conversion of starch? Can affect the body a bit.

Do you use any kettle finings such as Protofloc? This can help reduce sedimentation in FV and subsequent bottling.

  • I didn't do an iodine test and I haven't heard of kettle finings before. – Ovaryraptor Jul 10 '18 at 21:06
  • Iodine test is easy, I take a white plate, pipette a little wort on to the plate, then add a little iodine, if it turns black/blue you still have unconverted starches and if it all remains brown-ish you have full conversion. Kettle finings and protofloc in particular to my mind are pure magic and well worth investing in. – Mr_road Jul 11 '18 at 8:32
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I didn't plug it into any hop utilization software, but those hop quantities don't look very aggressive for a 3 gallon batch. Any chance that you have some hop material getting into the final beer? If any of that "sediment" in your brew was hop material, then you will get a harsh bitterness even in a very low IBU recipe. Not sure how you dry hop, but using paint strainer bags can help quite a bit.

  • I am using brewer's friend to build my recipe and it said that my IBUs were 265 after I fixed a bug in how it was displaying things – Ovaryraptor Jul 13 '18 at 17:12
  • I use Brewsmith and I am not familiar with Brewer’s Friend, but those IBU’s are too high for that hop schedule. Steeping / Whirlpool hops and dry hops have a much lower utilization than full boil. Make sure that the hops are being calculated based off the lower temperatures and reduced utilization. – GrainOfTruth Jul 14 '18 at 10:55
  • Are you listing whirlpool additions as the total weight of those blended hop varieties (my assumption), or are you adding that weight of each? – GrainOfTruth Jul 14 '18 at 11:03

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