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I've add some mishaps with my standard Coleman-based mash tun, and I'm now left with a hole where the faucet was (some wort went inside the insulation, but I'd like to believe it won't impact temperature conservation). I'm using a braid as filter. I'm not a very bright handyman, hence:

Question: How can I put a faucet back in such a way that there is no chance wort can leak into the insulation? How can I ensure that even when the braid is moved a bit when stirring the mash, no space will be created allowing wort to leak? I don't have the original plastic piece that fitted the hole.

My previous solution included some O-rings that got smashed by being on parts that were screwed too tight.

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You can use my method. Take a look at www.dennybrew.com. I've used it for 17 years and 475 batches and it works perfectly. You use a minikeg bung and a nylon valve. I've found it much easier to build and more effective to use than a bulkhead.

interior

exterior

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    In the spirit of SE, would you mind including a little bit more information in your answer, pertaining to my specific problem? Thanks!
    – Michaël
    Mar 30, 2015 at 15:34
  • I have to agree with @Michaël, isn't the whole point of the SE model to gather the best answers and information here, rather than simply referring people to your website?
    – Franklin P Combs
    Mar 30, 2015 at 16:05
  • Thanks. Just trying to be succinct, since all the info is there.
    – Denny Conn
    Mar 30, 2015 at 17:35
  • I went with this option, with foodgrade silicone everywhere. It works like a charm, and I did not even have to put a spigot (the tubing pressed in half blocks the liquid). Not caring for hot side aeration, this gives a very minimalistic and super efficient system. If I had to do it again, I'd do that and use one of those very large mesh bags for filtering.
    – Michaël
    Jun 18, 2015 at 13:21
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You want too look into the design of of a "weldless bulkhead". The instruction/installation guide (PDF) has a great breakaway view of the approach: using nipples, couplers, washers, orings and a locknut to compress the orings against the cooler walls to create a watertight seal. The trick is to get all the pieces appropriately sized, and to use a locknut that has a groove for the outer oring, such that it's evenly compressed rather than being squished. From outside to inside:

[locknut] [oring] [cooler wall/threaded nipple] [oring] [washer] [threaded coupler]

It sounds like you do have an oring involved, so perhaps the nut was over-tightened, pinching or squishing the oring, rather than compressing it? Hard to say.

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