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bio website developer.personal.com
location Washington, DC
age 30
visits member for 4 years, 1 month
seen Jan 17 at 1:56

Jan
17
comment If/When to move to secondary fermentation
Marked as answer. This is still more of an "appeal to authority" than a biochemical explanation. Does Palmer offer any published research or statements from other experts that corroborates this? In particular, "Racking to prevent autolysis is not necessary" requires some kind of substantiation.
Feb
24
comment Hop Utilization Resource
I bought BeerSmith, it is definitely a very nice program!
Dec
7
comment Can I sell my Homebrew in the UK
This is similar to the "collectors" brews you see sold on Ebay (Dark Lord in the US comes to mind.) A disclaimer says that you are buying the unopened bottle for collection purposes, but it's still not exactly legal. Admittedly it could be the case that all those sellers are licensed, but I am skeptical. It still implies to me that you should be safe doing a bottle deposit system among friends.
Dec
7
comment Can I sell my Homebrew in the UK
-1 For complete conjecture.
Dec
6
comment If/When to move to secondary fermentation
I sanitize the tube for my CO2, stick it in the secondary vessel, and shoot enough CO2 into the container to make this a non-issue. Obviously this isn't an option without keg equipment...
Nov
24
comment Shaking vs not shaking
For clarification (limited sized comments), "Yeast" (White/Zainasheff) recommends shaking the secondary vessel 2 weeks after the start of fermentation (or something similar)? Does it mention the effects (ABV, flavor)?
Nov
23
comment Shaking vs not shaking
"that's because you're knocking a significant volume of CO2 out of solution" - No. It is because CO2 is always a byproduct of yeast metabolism, whether aerobic or anaerobic, and the nutrient pack is catalyzing their metabolism - wyeastlab.com/hb_productdetail.cfm?ProductID=16.
Nov
23
comment Shaking vs not shaking
I disagree. howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-2.html Explains why you shake at the beginning. howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-3.html Explains why you do not shake after primary. I would consider Palmer's "How To Brew" as a good best practices source. If you have a credible source with contradictory information, please reference it.
Nov
23
comment Is there anything I need to keep in mind if I double a recipe?
Yup, IBU = (Weight * Utilization * AA * 7489)/(Final Volume * Gravity Correction) Since the only two things here that change are the Final Volume in the denominator, which doubles, and the weight, you must double the weight to produce the same IBU. For aroma/flavor there aren't really qualitative methods without chromatography, so you may as well just also double all hops, then iterate a given recipe to taste. EDIT: the constant of 7489 is for English units.
Nov
23
comment Sanitation & Dry Hopping
@Dean, Alpha acids (humulone, cohumulone, and adhumulone) are responsible for the bitterness hops impart to beer in a process called isomerization that occurs when you boil them. The the oils that impart aroma and flavor (which are indeed either evaporated or degraded when boiled) are composed of compounds to include Myrcene, Humulene, Caryophyllene, farnesene, and other hydrocarbons. So essentially, when you boil hops you create the bittering compounds, but lose the flavor/aroma compounds. (Source: Daniels, Ray, "Designing Great Beers," 1996, 2000)
Nov
22
comment Alternatives to a hydrometer?
-1: A good rule of thumb - if you are starting your post with "this doesn't answer your question", then it is not a candidate answer and you should not post it.
Nov
10
comment Optimal counterflow wort chiller
Good call on the poly tube and barb fitting.
Nov
9
comment What is the difference between Clean, Sanitized and Sterilized?
Hah, +1 nice. Although ironically, a. urine is sterile and b. ammonia in urine + chlorine in bleach -> mustard gas :-D
Nov
9
comment Book for beginners
@Joe I completely agree that there is no problem with an answer that only lists one book. However, I am unsure whether it is appropriate as a requirement. I would think that a great answer would aggregate the rationale from multiple one book answers to guide the reader to the book that is best for them. We should probably move this discourse to meta.homebrew.stackexchange.com, but I don't quite know how to ask it as a question :-)
Nov
9
comment Optimal counterflow wort chiller
I suppose I was worried about the copper coming into contact with the hose, as far as the hose heat rating. It sounds like this is not an issue. Thanks!
Nov
9
comment Book for beginners
@Joe Please see my comment on the question. I was attempting to answer a subjective question as objectively as possible. I was trying to stay in line with the first guideline of subjective questions - "Great subjective questions inspire answers that explain “why” and “how”." by providing rationale for /why/ each text would be good for a beginner. Thank you for the up-vote.
Nov
9
comment Book for beginners
From FAQ: "Avoid asking subjective or argumentative questions." One book per answer means you are voting on /books/ not /answers/, which makes this question inherently subjective. Please review the six guidelines for great subjective questions - blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/09/good-subjective-bad-subjective
Nov
9
comment Book for beginners
You may want to condense your answer posts into one if you wish to be up-voted.
Nov
9
comment What's the point of secondary fermentation?
@Jeff Interesting. So is the importance of that CO2 overblown, or are the beers you're talking about still producing CO2 at the 1-2 month mark? This may need to be its own question, but is there a good heuristic for determining when it is appropriate to move to secondary (or if for that matter)?
Nov
9
comment Good holiday beer recipes?
Voted to close (subjective)