network profile
| bio | website | |
|---|---|---|
| location | ||
| age | 51 | |
| visits | member for | 11 months |
| seen | Jun 12 at 19:38 | |
| stats | profile views | 0 |
Hacking Java for money, Erlang for knowledge
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Jun 12 |
answered | How big of a Noob am I? Or, What to Do when You spill a stir-bar in your 5-gallon bucket |
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Jun 5 |
comment |
Oxidization during transfer On my second batch I transferred to secondary and left the end of the siphon hose dangling a good 6-8" above the bottom of the carboy, and didn't realize it until I'd transferred about a gallon. I got a fair amount of bubbles, but the brew turned out just fine. So there's hope! |
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Jun 3 |
comment |
Why an erlynmeyer flask? @DougEdey: I'll bet you have -- Pyrex measuring cups. They may not be laboratory-grade, but they're certainly thermal-shock resistant. |
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Jun 3 |
comment |
How long to dry hop, then when to bottle and taste? You don't have to wait that long before tasting, I typically crack open one of my brews after only a week. They're carbed enough to enjoy, and it's fun to taste the way they change as they age. |
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Apr 10 |
answered | Is the Blichmann burner worth the money? |
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Jan 28 |
answered | What are the practical differences between leaf hops and hop pellets? |
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Dec 17 |
comment |
How do you prevent boil-overs? +1 for blowing on it. I did this in a panic once and was amazed that it worked. Don't know if it's a function of my pot shape (it's wider than it is tall) but all it takes is blowing on it for 2-3 seconds and it's under control. When I had a smaller pot I could snatch it off the heat fairly easily, but now I'm doing full-volume boils in a 10G pot so it'd be a bit more challenging. |
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Dec 17 |
comment |
What are the easiest and hardest commercial beer bottles to re-use for homebrew? The bulk of my bottles originally came with either Steam or Porter in them, and they're the only ones I have trouble with. I usually wind up snapping the neck on one of them every batch I bottle. |
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Oct 24 |
answered | When is fermentation done |
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Oct 24 |
awarded | Commentator |
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Oct 24 |
comment |
Make a kit brew better? If you're going to add DME, then you'll need to add hops to maintain the balance, and those hops should be added at the beginning of the boil. For a pound of DME I'd suggest half an ounce of EKG, with another ounce at five minutes. If you're doing a full-volume boil, add the DME at the beginning. If you're just doing a 2-3 gallon boil, you can add it at flameout. |
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Oct 24 |
answered | Experimenting, Priming Sugars |
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Oct 16 |
comment |
A way get scum out when making mead without boiling? I've used a paint strainer for BIAB brewing and they're much more porous than a dishtowel. If you use a "flour sack"-type towel, they're practically lint-free. I'm guessing a paint strainer would trap 90% of the scum, but not all. |
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Oct 15 |
comment |
Cleaning Fermenter I find that sticking a shop rag or other smallish bit of cloth in the carboy with some PBW or OxyClean and some warm water does wonders for getting the gunk out. |
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Oct 15 |
awarded | Supporter |
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Oct 12 |
answered | Can I use liquid nitrogen to cool my wort? |
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Oct 8 |
comment |
Do I need to rack to a new vessel for a secondary (fruit) fermentation @alsothings: Note that John Palmer has reversed his earlier view on secondaries; pick up the current (third) edition of How To Brew for his current recommendation. |
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Oct 4 |
comment |
Stuck Mash — New LHBS I have heard that it makes conversion go faster, but I don't really know. Maybe they're catering to the BIAB crowd? |
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Oct 3 |
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Is hop harvesting before first frost necessary? Really? I thought people stored their hops in the freezer. Or is it a repeated freeze/thaw cycle that does it? |
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Oct 3 |
answered | Stuck Mash — New LHBS |
