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Jul
29
comment Homebrewing Soda, Safety Concerns
It's still not impossible for the plastic ones to explode if the pressure gets high enough. Store them somewhere safe.
Jul
28
comment Homebrewing Soda, Safety Concerns
Since they're PET bottles, that's a very minor concern. At least I hope that's what he means by 2L soda bottles. If he used glass, he should get rid of them as soon as possible.
Jul
28
comment Preparing yeast for secondary fermentation
Keep in mind that sweetness can be as much due to lack of hops as fermentation. Also, alcohol adds sweetness, so stronger beers will seem sweeter.
Jul
27
comment Preparing yeast for secondary fermentation
One thing you can do is try a fast ferment test (sometimes called a forced ferment test). That will tell you is it's the wort or the yeast. Take a sample and put it in a container like a jar. Add a LOT of yeast to it...it can even be bread yeast. All we want to do is find out how low that wort will ferment. Leave it in a warm place for a few days, then take a reading again. If it's dropped, you know there's still fermentation to be done. If it hasn't, the beer is finished.
Jul
27
comment Preparing yeast for secondary fermentation
OK, I don't see a lot of unfermentables there in terms of ingredients. The extract will be to some extent, but there's not a lot of that. Nottingham should have no trouble at all dealing with a 1.083 beer. However, since the gravity hasn't fallen further, I really suspect that fermentation is done. I also think that's a fine FG for a 1.083 beer. Is there some particular reason you want it lower or think it should be?
Jul
24
comment Minimal neccesary time in primary/seconday for a barleywine-braggot
This is good basic advice, but keep in mind that the beer dictates the schedule...the calendar doesn't. Take gravity readings and taste the sample afterwards. That's the only way to know for certain.
Jul
23
comment Dynamics temperature measurement
The most important part to me would be to do a blind triangle tasting of a tightly controlled process vs. the normal process. If you can't taste a difference, the temps don't matter.
Jul
23
comment Dynamics temperature measurement
That's very interesting and different from what I've seen. But I haven't tested it to the extent you have. I also wonder how much it really matters in terms of the beer quality.
Jul
23
comment Dynamics temperature measurement
"Varies a lot of degrees"? That certainly hasn't been my experience. When I ferment in my temp controlled chest freezer, the temp is amazingly homogenous throughout the wort
Jul
22
comment Best way to estimate remaining fermentable sugars?
"The important point is, how do you know whether that supposedly stuck beer has any fermentable sugar left? The yeast might have given up early, which is a common enough problem. Or maybe the mash temp was missed by a lot? Or maybe something toxic got into the beer, causing the yeast to die early."....yeast giving up early isn't all that common. You'd have to miss your mash temp by 20F for that to matter. And I don't know of anything toxic that could get in and kill yeast.
Jul
22
comment Yeast Problems!
It wouldn't be too high if you starter at 1.100. But it is too high from 1.056. The questions is "why?". I'd guess you have a highly unfermentable wort, but we'll need to see the recipe and your procedure to know for sure. But if it hasn't changed in 2 weeks, it's highly unlikely that it will change with more yeast.
Jul
21
comment When should I add campden tablets?
Add it to the water before you use it.
Jul
21
comment When should I add campden tablets?
Nope, I'm afraid you were incorrectly informed. Within minutes you'll be fine.
Jul
13
comment What do you call additions after fermentation?
You doubted me? :)
Jul
8
comment If oxygen is important mostly during the lag phase why not pre-oxygenate the yeast pitch prior to inoculation?
Ryan, you're overthinking this. It really doesn't matter what "phase" the yeast are in.
Jul
8
comment Where should I take the temperature while cooling wort?
Bogus. There's absolutely nothing wrong with opening the lid to stir occasionally. Just be sanitary about it.
Jul
6
comment If oxygen is important mostly during the lag phase why not pre-oxygenate the yeast pitch prior to inoculation?
There is some evidence that simply aerating the starter is all that is necessary and that if you do that you don't need to aerate the wort. However, as homebrewers our procedures aren't perfect so it's safer to aerate the wort also. Also, there isn't really a separate lag phase. According to the Crabtree Effect, fermentation begins immediately in the presence of a >.5% glucose solution, which wort certainly is. So fermentation and yeast growth happens simultaneously.
Jul
3
comment secondary or not?
Personally, I would rack to secondary before dry hopping becasue of the interaction between yeast and hops creating increased levels of geraniol. It's about the only time I use a secondary.
Jun
28
comment Weihenstephaner Vitus yeast
While it's possible that they use a different strain for bottling, more than likely it's the primary strain. Most breweries I'm familiar with have so much of their primary yeast around that they often have to dump the excess. It simply doesn't make sense for them to keep another yeast around.
Jun
25
comment missing blow off water
The yeast will not consume the StarSan. Maybe something will happen, bit that's not it.