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visits member for 2 years, 11 months
seen Oct 29 '12 at 21:56

Jul
15
answered Hop variety resources
May
22
answered Getting custom beer crates in the US?
May
22
answered Stainless Steel Scrubber in Boil Screen to strain hops?
May
22
answered Do yeast die after bottling?
May
22
comment Do yeast die after bottling?
Olsenius, this is precisely why using a bottling bucket is popular; you make your syrup (boil and cool to a yeast-safe temp), pour it into your sterilized bottling bucket, then transfer the beer from fermenter to bottling bucket. I also like to sterilize a large all-metal spoon and give it a healthy stir after transfer. (Remember to keep splashing/aeration to a minimum.) At that point, rack the beer to bottles, cap, and you're done.
May
22
comment Why isn't my gravity increasing? Has fermentation stopped?
Homebrewing without a hydrometer is like driving a car without a speedometer: you can probably get by without one, until you run into one of those unfortunate situations where you wish you had one. ;-) (It's the difference between the gut feel "I think this is so" vs the more scientific "I know this is so".)
May
22
comment Why isn't my gravity increasing? Has fermentation stopped?
Upvoted. I would add that a) if the gravity reading is unchanging over a period of time (eg, 7 days) that fermentation has essentially stopped, and b) common sense suggests that unfermented wort will be denser / thicker / have a higher gravity than plain tap water, ergo the hydrometer should bob high the day the yeast is pitched, and sink low when fermentation is done. If the gravity is genuinely increasing over time, then something else is going on (eg, evaporation, which shouldn't happen unless you're doing open fermentation).
Mar
6
answered Should dry hopping be done in secondary, when to transfer, and for how long?
Mar
6
answered Is beer bad for dogs?
Feb
17
awarded  Tag Editor
Feb
16
comment The cheapest way to start brewing
I seem to recall my starter kit (including a kit of Cooper's PA (which included a yeast packet) and another 2 lbs of pale LME) was had for under $80, including capper. The Cooper's was my choice; my LHBS gave me the choice from among various they had on the shelves. Other than that, the starter kit included: fermentation bucket, vapor lock, tubing, stopcock (can save some aggro when racking), ... I don't recall what else, I think that might have been it.
Feb
16
comment Is an immersion chiller really necessary?
I recently bought a sump pump to connect to my plate chiller. I submerge the sump pump in a bin (one of those plastic moving bins) of ice water (4 bags of ice + just enough water to moisten the top layer of ice). Given that my previous attempt with the chiller alone was disappointing (struggled to get it below 80ºF - blame the warm Texas winter), I can honestly say that this effort knocked it out of the park: the post-transfer wort ended up at 55ºF. That was for an extract (+ specialty grains) recipe, where I was 'only' chilling 3.5 gallons (topped up with cold water).
Jan
27
awarded  Supporter
Jan
27
answered Breaking bottles when capping them
Jan
22
comment Why do all my beers taste better after having aged for a couple months?
Doh. And here I've been calling my boiling vessel a kettle. I presume that the correct word should have been simply 'kegging'?
Jan
18
answered Two part question on my first brew batch
Jan
12
revised keg wiki excerpt
added 59 characters in body
Jan
12
awarded  Teacher
Jan
12
answered How to strain wort before primary fermentation
Jan
12
suggested approved edit on keg tag wiki excerpt