1,317 reputation
29
bio website hopville.com/brewer/plaisier
location Seattle, WA
age 33
visits member for 1 year, 5 months
seen yesterday
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A human geneticist and biologist that has been brewing for nearly 10 years off and on. Lately moved over to all grain and have been getting more serious about brewing. Currently working out the bugs of brewing 2.5 gallon batches using the BIAB method.


May
15
comment Fitering BIAB wort
I always add whirlfloc. But based on the amount of material in my wort when I used a wider spaced mesh bag it probably is going to be overwhelmed by the particulate matter. On the other hand it couldn't hurt.
May
15
comment Fitering BIAB wort
Check out this article about wet or conditioned milling (beersmith.com/blog/2010/07/11/…). That would reduce the amount of husk particles in the boil. Otherwise I don't really know of a great way to reduce the amount of particulate matter added to the boil. You could pre-sift your crushed barley in a pine mesh screen or a collinder to get rid of the fine stuff before adding to the boil. But that might affect your efficiency a bit but probably wouldn't affect it too much. you could always add more grains to account for the loss.
May
14
answered Fitering BIAB wort
May
14
comment My bottles are Conditioning underwater. Why are there bubbles on the caps on day 2 but not day 0 through 1?
Just a question but if your capping was bad wouldn't the bottles fill up with water? I mean I understand that the yeast will put out CO2, but wouldn't water get in? I find using water as a test a bit silly. Seems like the best way is to just wait and see. If they aren't capped properly there won't be any carbonation. If they are then they will be carbonated. If they are bottle bombs then you didn't finish fermentation or added too much priming sugar.
May
14
comment What to brew in the summer?
Why not a steam beer (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steam_beer). They say ferment with lager yeast at ale temperatures but 30C would likely work too. Or you could do a hefewiezen with a nice estery yeast and the high temperature should increase those byproducts. But you are going to want to let whatever you do brew sit and let the fusel alcohols dissipate. A less alcoholic beer should have less of those so a hefe or even session beers of many styles would be prudent.
May
14
comment The “correct” step to add cinnamon and vanilla?
@Baard Kopperud: Yeah it is especially nice when you want to titrate how much you add. If you do bottle conditioning the beer will sit with active yeast and condition for while mixing all the flavors together. Whether you would get a different flavor by using a different method I can't say. But using extracts is pretty commonly done.
May
14
comment The “correct” step to add cinnamon and vanilla?
The main flavor compounds in vanilla and cinnamon are both phenolic compounds that will boil off if added to early in the boil. I have always seen them added either 10 minutes or later in the boil. Added to the fermenter in secondary. Or soak cinnamon sticks or vanilla beans in vodka and add that to the bottling bucket. If you take that latter approach you can titrate how much you add.
May
10
answered Dropped the temperature as it was getting out of control, did I shock my yeast?
May
8
comment Can you mash for too long?
When we did this we assumed 65% efficiency. So we had plenty of grain. It just took a lot of sparge water before the amount of sugar running off the massive amount of grains went below what we felt was a completed sparge.
May
8
comment Can you mash for too long?
I haven't ever mashed overnight because I have a hard time keeping temperature controlled enough for an hour or 90 minutes. So I shouldn't have said anything about that so took it out. But the comment about sparging still stands.
May
8
revised Can you mash for too long?
I don't usually mash this long so I shouldn't have put my neck out.
May
7
answered Can you mash for too long?
May
7
comment Using pine in beer
It would be smart to do a test batch with vodka flavored with the tender tis/needles/brown part first. That way if it does taste like turpentine, which I am guessing it would if you put in too much then you only have that issue with one beer. And can titrate the concentration till you get the flavor profile you want.
May
6
comment Why an erlynmeyer flask?
You are absolutely right. The bigger the better for surface area. We often use shakers instead of stir plates for cultures. The beauty of the erlynmeyer flask is that they don't spill easily when the liquid inside is vigorously mixed. Try the same thing with a beaker and you would have one major mess.
May
5
answered Why an erlynmeyer flask?
May
3
comment How to make more beer than I can boil?
A couple of alternatives to stay AG would be to use a no chill brewing cube and do two batches of mashing. Then combine the wort produced from the two batches. Another alternative would be to sparge with less liquid and add a bit more grain to hit a higher OG in a smaller volume and then dilute on the backend. I believe people do the latter often without any issues.
May
1
comment Can Infected beer cause death or major illness?
There might be an ascertainment bias. How are people supposed to report death by infected beer. I mean their dead right. ;-)
May
1
comment How to train my nose for hop aromas?
Another potential way is to go somewhere where they have a randalizer. A brewpub near me had a night where they offered the same beer sent through a bunch of different types of hops using their randalizers. I couldn't make it but a friend of mine said it was awesome. One day I hope they do it again.
Apr
30
comment How little light can spoil a beer?
Oh ok that would make sense. In that case the fan should be replaced with a non-light up fan. The effect may be negligible on the beer but it is definitely in the range of skunking light. For a beer in direct sunlight skunking takes a matter of minutes. But if the beer sits with very little light for a long time (days) this could have an effect on the beer.
Apr
29
answered How little light can spoil a beer?