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Aug
15
comment Adding gypsum after fermentation
This gave me the confidence to try it. I added 1/16 of a gram, dissolved in water to a half pint (would take the beer to 150ppm sulfate), and it was a noticeable improvement. I may try adding more sulfate to get the beer closer to 200-250ppm sulfate just to see, and do a blind triangle test with some other people. By and large though, I think this made a huge improvement, so thanks! Bounty well-deserved.
Jun
12
comment Amount of lactose (or milk?) to make a real 'Cream Ale',
Cream Ale is just a horrible name for the style. When I make these, I refer to them as "American Pub Ales" (I do tend to hop mine a little higher with Saaz or something similar), because the name is just ridiculous and misleading to most people that aren't judges.
May
15
comment O2-absorbing crowns - do they absorb other things?
it was a blind triangle test on both a biere de garde and an oaked braggot.
Apr
16
comment Sour beer, lambic, et cetera
Upvote on the answer, but good God, you have to add Lost Abbey to that list! :-)
Apr
15
comment Bottling Blended Sours
I think I would prefer to bottle-condition/naturally carb this beer, but if it turns out that force-carbing is the best way to produce a consistent carb level and beer that is still ages well, I will likely force carb it.
Apr
14
comment Bottling Blended Sours
@ tobias, yes. I am inferring from your question that if I do blend, I should not bottle immediately? Ie wait for the bugs in the older sour to attack the complex carbs in the younger beer? @ Graham, the reason is that there are likely still dissolved wild yeast/bugs in the older beer that would not only attack priming sugar but also the residual dextrins/complex carbs in the young beer and create bottle bombs.
Apr
10
comment Bottling Blended Sours
so you could theoretically just do this in a keg as well and fill with a beer gun/bottling wand and picnic hose?
Apr
29
comment What is the benefit of long fermentations/leaving beer on yeast for weeks?
I do have a temp controller (single stage, but I switch the jumper based on whether I need to go warmer or cooler than ambient). This also could be a separate question, but on most ales, I really don't worry about controlling the temp after the first 3-5 days. If I'm not in a rush, I will cap the temp on an APA at 66 for 5 days, then bring the fermenter upstairs where the ambient temp is 68-70 and let it ride for another week or so. Cold crash, gel, keg, serve. Other than proper yeast pitches, it has been the single biggest factor in me making better beer.
Apr
29
comment What is the benefit of long fermentations/leaving beer on yeast for weeks?
edited. I also hit it with gelatin once its cold-crashed it I have time.
Apr
29
comment What is the benefit of long fermentations/leaving beer on yeast for weeks?
Yeah, I have a copy and have read it twice...and probably not retained more than 10% of it! I will check it tonight, just thought I'd put the question out there.
Mar
4
comment Is it important to weigh down a hop bag for dry-hopping?
upvoted this one. I used a bunch of steel bolts and such one time, thinking they were 'stainless', but they were in fact CHROMED, which is poison. Pulled them out though and still drank the beer :-)
Jan
29
comment What is the purpose of lagering?
I feel like I have actually heard this before. Lagers that have darker malts have, by nature, much more tannic/astringent flavors that cold-conditioning helps precipitate out (my understanding is that tannins are a very molecularly large polyphenol). But that would be counterintuitive to your Okfest. Ah the mysteries of brewing!
Jan
16
comment How to make a beer which is quickly ready to drink
heres another homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/7630/…
Jan
11
comment How to affect the color of head
I ask the question for kind of a weird reason. I am brewing a Valentines Day sweet stout and am planning on doing a secondary with raspberries. I thought it would be really cool to have a black beer with a pink head. Was thinking if I kept the head neutral enough, there would be a tinge of pink/red fromt he raspberries. In any event, brewing this weekend, and using roasted barley instead of carafa/BP/choc, even though the latter are recommended for sweet stouts. Going to add the RB @ mashout so its not too acrid.
Jan
8
comment First Brew: Yellow Mold - Transfer to Carboy - Slowing of Fermentation
what makes you think the initial stuff was mold and not just a krausen (yeast) ring starting to form? Different yeasts behave differently, especially with different conditions (temp, wort composition, etc.). My guess is you will be fine, but the risks probably outweighed the benefits of siphoning out of the original ferm vessel.
Dec
14
comment Layering different varieties of hops at single intervals
upvote! will do. Read DGB awhile back but am definitely due for a refresher!
Dec
7
comment My beer is not carbonating in my Keg
interesting...I wonder if there is a certain amount of pressure in the headspace, it doesn't allow the liquid to absorb the CO2/gas?
Dec
7
comment New to Kegging - Help
I've been doing this since I started kegging with some pretty repeatable success. FWIW, it seems a bit easier to set the keg on its side and roll back and forth with your foot. I also turn the gas down to 15 psi after shaking and hit the release valve and let it sit for a few hours @ 15 psi.
Dec
5
comment When am I supposed to add my dark grains
Ok tried this again on the carb and it is pretty damn solid. It has a nice roast backbone, but is in no way acrid like some other stouts I have made. Might try the same 'add at sparge' method next time, and as Graham says below, dial in the recipe without the roasted grains, and powder them up in the mill prior to adding at sparge.
Dec
3
comment When am I supposed to add my dark grains
Maple syrup, coffee, chocolate, home-toasted oats. Founders does one that is delightful.