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seen Jan 28 at 11:54

Oct
18
comment Is rapid wort chilling always needed?
To be fair, if @C4H5As immediately after boil pours his partial boiled wort into chilled water it won't affect the flavor/aroma/bittering ratio, since it won't be near boiling temperature longer anyway...
Oct
16
comment What's a good first equipment buy after a basic starter kit?
@Jarett Remember that any betterment depends on your current storage conditions. I happen to have a cellar that is always at the same temp - a temp which is suitable for a large number of ales. I'm only considering buying an extra fridge because I want to do lagers.
Oct
11
comment What's a good first equipment buy after a basic starter kit?
@Graham I've got some experience with electronics. Right now I'm assembling a temp controller for my mash heater, accurate to within 1 degree and all for about 10-15 bucks. And that is alot more advanced than a simple on-off type regulator. I'd write an DIY tutorial if anyone was interested.
Oct
11
comment Is a late addition of sugar into wine a month after primary ended detrimental?
Wholeheartedly agree about letting it sit for a long time! Probably taste like vodka + cider right now.
Oct
11
comment Is a late addition of sugar into wine a month after primary ended detrimental?
What is your rationale for siphoning it off instead of just leaving it? I'm fermenting about 16 l in a 25 l glass carboy, so there's alot of headspace. I'm fairly paranoid about oxidizing at this point :p. If you would return it to the yeast cake, why not just pour/siphon the sugar solution into the carboy (boiled in a small amount of water, so it's more of a syrup)?
Oct
10
comment What's a good first equipment buy after a basic starter kit?
@Graham What kind of temp controller is that to warrant such a price? Can't be a simple on/off thermostat?
Oct
9
comment Day 2 of Primary Fermentation of beer
+1 for pic! :) much easier for others to pick up any advice that way,
Oct
9
comment Lots of trub affecting specific gravity readings?
I think I will experiment a bit with this when my next beer is finished. Take a sample without trub, measure SG, add some trub from the bottom and measure again. Might even try different levels of trub. :)
Sep
22
comment After how long of a boil will LPT1 and other head retention proteins denature?
I think you are right, my particular bad results is probably because I used soap (which I realize is a big no-no). I was just wondering if I could do something to make it even better next time. Guess I'll just go all-grain + full boil soon enough anyway!
Sep
22
comment After how long of a boil will LPT1 and other head retention proteins denature?
@NorthernBrewerChris It was actually not a specific style, just a darker ale with ~30 IBU. At this point I'm guessing my particular problem is due to using soap while bottling and for my glasses. In general I was wondering if I should boil all malt or not, with emphasis on head retention.
Sep
21
comment After how long of a boil will LPT1 and other head retention proteins denature?
@Graham Yes indeed. :)
Sep
21
comment After how long of a boil will LPT1 and other head retention proteins denature?
@DennyConn Well, it actually does talk about denatured LPT1.. I think thats where I originally read it. (quote from site) In boiling wort, LTP1 unravels (denatures, in the lingo) and changes shape. So, boiling wort converts LTP1 from a mostly inactive form to a form capable of forming good beer foam.
Sep
19
comment What number of IBU is standard for some commercial IPAs?
@denny When you say BU:GU, you mean GU from malt, right? Since for example corn sugar wouldn't leave any residue sweetness? Also: Damn, this is one of those times I wish I could accept multiple answers...
Sep
15
comment What are the effects of storing hops in the freezer?
@brew Two months of storage. Maybe 30% is alot, I'm just looking for general best practices. I mean, most if not all brewers must surely face this problem sometime... It standard practice to simply use them as ordinary?
Sep
15
comment How to clean yeast
@PMV It would probably work fine if you made a small starter every two months or so, with oxygen-rich water and some yeast nutrient. This will produce fresh cells. You then repeat the above process.
Sep
7
comment What does high attentuation actually mean in terms of types of sugar fermented?
@brewchez Agreed. I'm mainly just trying to understand the chemistry behind the fermentation process, not particularly what the label says - question should probably been stated as Does different yeast strains ferment different types of sugar?
Sep
7
comment Non fermenting cider
@Jug read this: homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/4673/beer-not-carbonating. Might give you some more tips.
Sep
6
comment Non fermenting cider
@Jug Just sanity checking.. You did prime it right? :D Must be extremely frustrating. I've never added yeast to bottles before, but I believe it would be much the same thing as pitching as usual. Probably easier with dry yeast, pop a few granulates into each bottle. If you use liquid yeast, make a small starter to invigorate it then add a bit to each bottle. It might also be worth it's own question on this site! Only found this: homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/1540/…
Sep
2
comment Non fermenting cider
@Jug It's hard to say.. What temperature is it in your basement? Higher temperature might induce activity, but it won't help if the yeast is dead. Try rousing the yeast by putting the bottles upside down (so any settled yeast is brought into suspension) and put it a little warmer. It's a pain if you need to open all bottles and add more yeast!
Aug
29
comment What does high attentuation actually mean in terms of types of sugar fermented?
So it is a rough estimate of how many of the different sugars that can be fermented by a specific yeast as well as the make-up in a standard wort between those sugars? Am I right in thinking that if a yeast can ferment a specific sugar, it will ferment it completely?