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Autolysis in homebrew is largely a myth. The reason being that a five gallon batch in a carboy or bucket doesn't have the weight or geometry to compress the the yeast the way a 100 gallon or more conical can. On the other hand, you can still get off or wrong flavors from pitching too much yeast. When harvesting yeast, it typically takes time and several ...


2

I would actually encourage you to HOLD UP on changing the yeast. First of all, you didn't indicate what yeast you actually used. I'm assuming its a neutral ale yeast (US-05, Nottingham, Muntons, etc) because you really don't want a ton of yeast flavor in a Rye Pale Ale. That style highlights the weird spicy flavor of the rye along with a nice hop wallop, and ...


1

At least here in the US, the dominant yeast suppliers are Wyeast and White Labs. Since you're talking about the differences of switching between strains of yeast I'd say it'll be most beneficial to consult the lab whose yeast you're getting. They'll give you tons of strain-specific info about flavor production, optimum temperatures, pitch rates, all that ...


1

Try the tab that says "repitching from slurry" and it will show the volume of (packed) yeast that calculated. It will be much less than the volume shown on the first tab, which seems to be the 2.75L you referred to above.


1

It's common for 'big' beer recipes to call for 2 bottle of white labs yeast (in a starter), so depending on how big your starter is you might be fine. I find that about 100-150ml of an active (foams when shaken) starter will work great for 20L batch in the 1.050-1.060 range. Also I don't think that over pitching isn't such a bad thing. People sometimes ...



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