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11

Speaking from experience as a molecular biologist. Erlynmeyer flasks are nice for a couple of reasons. The main alternative being a standard beaker which is essentially the same size at the top and the bottom. First off the neck size makes it easy to hold in the hand. Second a smaller opening reduces the chance of getting airborne material into the flask. ...


7

Danstar BRY-97 is a great option for American-style IPAs. It starts out kind of rough, but if you give it enough time to condition, it makes an amazing beer. Fermentis Safale US-05 and Danstar Nottingham also a popular choices for American-style IPAs. You should ferment them at the low end of their temperature ranges. For English-style IPAs, you can use ...


5

Mostly economical, yes. Another reason is potentially limited (or non-existent) commercial availability of specific strains. Either the yeast company's seasonal strain releases or something cultivated from yeast remaining in the bottle. Another reason is to develop a "house" strain, or to modify the behavior of an existing strain. For instance, the ...


5

I do this about once or twice a year. I'm an all grain brewer, so I typically just brew a batch of base malt. You can do the same with buying some DME/LME and adding that to the right amount of water to get the SG around 1.035-1.040. Your process sounds good, although I would probably blend all the DME and water at once so you can check the SG, and then ...


5

If the starter fully fermented, most of the 1.040 should be gone; normal yeast attenuation is around 75%, so you should have 1L of 1.010 beer in the starter vessel. 1L of 1.010 beer into 19L of 1.076 OG wort would reduce the OG down to about 1.073. (76 points * 19L + 10 points * 1L) / 20L = 72.7 points = 1.073. Though if possible, you should try to ...


5

If the starter was not hopped, you should be ok since the hops are needed to produce the skunky flavors. The UV radiation in sunlight can damage yeast cells, but they are capable of self-repair to a degree, so there should still be plenty of viable cells to continue fermentation. It's a good idea to not pitch the spent starter wort in general, here, I ...


4

You don't need a starter since you're pitching to 1/4 batch size that a whitelabs vial is good for. Normally you'd use 2-4 vials for a 20 liter batch, depending upon gravity, so that's equivalent to 1/2 to 1 a vial for a 5 liter batch. For the detailed figures, see Always making a starter vs. following package description. One way to know the OG prior to ...


4

First, unless the starter temp goes over maybe 90F, there is no damage to the yeast itself. second, for a starter of the size that you'll need for a tripel, the best course of action is to decant the spent wort before pitching so it won't have any flavor effect on your beer. remember, with a starter you're growing yeast, not making beer, and a starter ...


4

It does cold crash them, reducing activity to force them to flocculate and sediment out of solution. It does passivate them, generally shutting down their metabolism. It does not inactivate or destroy them, however; the yeast are still alive, just dormant. Bring them back up to pitching temperature and introduce them to fresh wort, and they will reproduce ...


3

It does not need to be 5.00000 gallons, don't worry about the small differences. You can aerate after pitching the yeast, so long as it's immediately after; the yeast need oxygen during the lag phase, but once alcohol starts being produced, you don't want to introduce oxygen at that point.


3

Ideally, you want the liquid portion of the starter to be crystal clear, meaning no yeast is left in suspension. In this scenario, you carefully pour the liquid off the sediment, leaving a enough to swirl around, bringing the sediment up into suspension, and then pitch. If the starter is small (1 or 2 quarts), and the yeast hasn't settled out completely, ...


3

Depending on the yeast type, and the OG of your starter wort (hopefully around the 1.040 range), it should complete fermentation within a very short time. I just did a starter using WLP090, and it completed fermentation within a day, so that can be used as a "shortest possible time", whereas others might take 48 - 72 hours at most. At that point, there ...


3

I have left starters sitting out for varying amounts of time with no problems. The longest I have left one was a 5L batch that I completely spaced out and it sat for five or six days. I removed the tin foil covering the top and gave it a sniff, smelled fine. I placed it in the fridge for a few days to settle, then decanted and added another 4L of 1.034 wort ...


2

While starters ideally don't make use of an airlock to promote maximum O2 exchange, some people prefer to use an airlock to counter wild yeasts and other contaminants. The narrow neck on the conical flask makes using a stopper and an airlock much more practical. Alternatives to rubber stoppers are foam stoppers which permit gas exchange. Again, these would ...


2

There are two key variables in a yeast starter - the volume of wort and the gravity of the wort. The volume principally determines how many cells you get out of the starter. The gravity also has some affect, but most texts recommend a gravity in the range 1.030-1.040. This is to avoid too high stresses on the yeast, and also because oxygen dissolves more ...


2

I would say that you have answered this yourself in your post. Since Wyeast liquid yeast is a 100% liquid yeast it does not contain any sugars that contribute to a higher OG. If it did contain any sugars it would start fermenting by itself in the tube... In your case you do not need to take this into account but if you are worried about your starting not ...


2

The "scientific" way would be to use a microscope and hemacytometer to count cells. The empirical method is what I use and has worked well for me for several hundred batches. You make a guess! I use between 1/3-1/2 of a previous slurry if I'm going to direct pitch the slurry. I use between 2 TBSP. -1/4 cup if I'm going to make a new starter from slurry.


2

Too much oxygen in a starter is almost impossible, so long as you decant the liquid and don't pitch it with the yeast. If you plan to pitch the liquid (e.g. to kraeusen a beer or restart a stuck ferment) then don't stir at all since you'll be pitching oxidized wort. A vortex isn't necessary for oxygen uptake - just having the surface in continual motion ...


2

Underpitching/stressing the yeast is not a way to get a controlled result. At 1/2 the recommended pitching rate wouldn't be a concern if you were fermenting warmer (66-68°F), but at 62°F I'd say you should at least start with the right amount of yeast, or you risk not least under-attenuation. If you want less clove then ferment warmer also, and ...


2

Adjusting pitching rate is a very iffy way to control a flavor profile. How much do you underpitch to get the effect you want? How do you know your underpitching enough, assuming it even works? Yeast selection and fermentation temp are much more controllable. Also, a number of yeast specialists, such as Dr. Clayton Cone of Lallemand ...


2

You can get esters from under-pitching as well as high temperature control, so skipping the yeast starter will be much worse than a starter without temp control, since you will be significantly underpitching. I'm guessing the Trippel was a fairly big beer, for which you need a proportionally larger yeast starter and then some. A 1.080 beer would need a 4 ...


2

OK, a couple things. One, don't make a starter for dry yeast. It has many more cells than liquid so a starter isn't needed. In addition, dry yeast is coated with a nutrient and if you make a starter that nutrient won't be available in your beer. Second, the OG isn't all that high. A single pack of rehydrated dry yeast will be plenty. Make it easy on ...


1

According to Mr Malty, you'd need about 1/3 of a pack for 1 gallon at 1.048 for direct pitching. The yeast will only remain highly viable for 2-4 weeks, though I've certainly pitched 6 month old washes that have functioned, though it was likely way under pitched. I would recommend using Mr Malty to determine how much to pitch in your 1 gallon batch (which ...


1

There is so little yeast in one of those packs that you'll have a really difficult time dividing it properly. You need to make a starter for any beer over 1.040 OG (despite what the yeast companies would have you believe). You ask if there's a practical solution and there really isn't a good way to do what you want to do. You could make a starter and save ...


1

Average it! Multiply your starter volume and wort volume by their original gravities respectively to produce numbers that can be combined to derive an average gravity reading from the blend. Do this by dividing the sum of the gravity-volume products by the sum of all wort: ( ( OG1 * V1 ) + ( OG2 * V2 ) ) / ( V1 + V2 ) = SG Where... OG1 is the ...


1

EDIT since I made my answer you changed from Cider to Ginger beer*** @brodul I have used bakers yeast with a cider in the past and I found the taste of the brew to be ...yeasty in flavor. It was my first cider that wasn't from a kit so it could have been my error, but since then I have used proper cider/Champaign yeast with much better results. If you want ...


1

It matters a little bit. The advice I've seen is that a wort of around 1.040 is best for a yeast starter, presumably because that's the optimal level of fermentables for yeast propagation. 1/2 cup of DME in 500ml of water yields a gravity around 1.040. So the wort from 1 cup in 800ml will have a higher gravity -- somewhere around 1.065. The yeast will not ...


1

Sure, dilute it, boil it to get about 1.040 SG and use it in the starter. All of the sugar content is still there. It may have staled and developed soapy compounds but the yeast don't care about those - they just want the sugar! After making the starter, put it in the fridge to flocculate the yeast and pour off the liquid so none of it makes it into the ...


1

Doing some searching around, LME can go bad, but I don't know how much it would effect your beer if it's just a yeast starter. You apparently get what people have dubbed "Extract Twang" if the LME is shelved for too long, as well as the color of the extract darkens, but I'd imagine a yeast starter is insignificant enough in quantity that you probably don't ...



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