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4

Strictly speaking, as long as you can ensure adequate and even oxygen contact with all of the yeast cells (a hard task, given the viscosity of yeast slurry), and provided the oxygenation comes directly before pitching, oxygenating the yeast/slurry itself is completely sufficient to provide for adequate growth in the following phase. Even more strictly ...


3

Increasing the innoculation rate alone will not necessarily result in a linear increase in cells. You'll have twice as many cells now competing for the same amount of sugars and nutrients, they may not be able to do as well. White and Zainasheff's Yeast has some empirical data about changing the innoculation rate by changing the volume of a starter, with a ...


3

There's only so much oxygen that the N-hundred billion cells that you pitch can "hold". As well, there's only so much oxygen that can be diffused into the liquid containing those cells. And not only will those pitched cells need more oxygen, but their offspring cells will need oxygen, as well. As such, we oxygenate the wort, not just the pitch.


2

With StarSan (really, with any no-rinse sanitizer), as long as you're using it at the prescribed dosage and draining your vessel well, there's absolutely no danger to your yeast. There would need to be a lot of sanitizer (like dumping your yeast straight into the sanitizing solution) to have an effect on it. Even that probably wouldn't kill it, though it ...


2

Monoammonium phosphate and diammonium phosphate contain all the same chemical compounds (phosphate ions, ammonium ions, and hydrogen ions), the major difference is that MAP has a second hydrogen in place of the ammonium. So, if you buy food grade stuff, it should be totally safe to consume, however, pH is determined by those hydrogen ions, so your wine may ...


1

First off, it sounds like you're talking about step-propagation, not kräusening (which is adding actively-fermenting beer to end-fermented beer to induce a true secondary fermentation). I find the issue here a bit vague, because you don't mention whether you're comparing pitching the same number of cells in both cases (one actively fermenting, and the other ...


1

This is a very broad question but here's some direction: ...and the usefulness of this answer depends on whether you are planning on starting a long term barrel project or a medium term sour beer or a very quick sour batch... Something is growing, but it is certainly changing the ratios of different critters. My thinking would be to split the starter up ...


1

No worries...05 will perform fine without anything special. Rehydrate it for best performance and then just toss it in. I've gone to 12% ABV with it with no issues. But my question is, how do you know it's the yeast? Why isn't it a fermentability of wort issues? Tell us more about your recipe and procedure in order to help figure out what's going on.


1

I used to add baking yeast into the starter boil as a nutrient to my beer yeast, all good. I believe you're safe with what you want to do. One last Q, how did you determine that the yeast is not viable? I fridge store my yeast samples for a year and get a visibly healthy starter after 2 days of inoculation. "Visibly" as in "it bubbles a lot".


1

I don't think that's unusual. I've had a similar experience where the starter overflowed massively and constantly, creating a huge mess. It didn't happen every time I made a starter, but twice was too much. I don't actually use my Erlenmeyer flask anymore because of this. I may someday buy another 3 liter flask, but in the meantime I've reserved a growler ...


1

It is not unusual. I'd easily believe that a 1.5L starter would overfill a 2L erlenmeyer at full krausen. I would suggest using an anti-foam agent in the future. I regularly do 1.6L starters in a 2L erlenmeyer w/o any hesitation or foam-over, due to the introductions of 1-2 drops of liquid simethicone (baby anti-gas drops), available in your local ...


1

If you pitch before the yeast had a chance to finish fermenting, you're pitching a less than optimal amount of yeast. Also, depending on the OG of the wort you grew your starter in, you may have suboptimal cell count and health. These also look like pretty small starters for lager.


1

If possible, you should always crash and decant the bland, unhopped starter beer. But especially for lagers, where the starter volume is usually larger to get a larger cell count. At the same time, ~1.7L into ~19L is only ~10%, it won't affect the batch too much. Also, lager yeasts do have a full range of flocculation characteristics, they're not ...


1

Take a gravity reading. Visual inspection doesn't tell you much about whether fermentation is happening or not.


1

Yes. Pitching a portion of the yeast into a new starter would certainly produce a revitalized pitch of yeast. Whether or not that makes sense probably depends on how long it's going to be before you plan to actually use the yeast. The yeast will be most healthy toward the end of the starter's fermentation, so I've known homebrewers who keep stored yeast in ...


1

It's too late for this beer in my opinion. Adding DME+water could work at a really high concentration. I have never done this, but there's no reason why that wouldn't work. But that seems more trouble than its worth to me. A new starter should not be necessary. To be honest, you should have left the extra sugar out. That's just going to thin it out and ...



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