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7

The starter is still good in that time. Very roughly, a 2L starter, presumably from a vial or smack pack, probably netted you between 200bn and 400bn cells. If you used 3/4 of it, you probably have 50-100bn cells left … about the amount in a smack pack/vial. As such, you should probably make a new starter from the remains of the previous one.


4

That sounds like a plan. When the starter is cool the yeast will sediment quicker so you can pour off the spent wort easier. Definitely take yeast out of the fridge on brewday, let it warm. If you have some additional sterile wort, then you can decant the spent wort and pitch the fresh wort as soon as the yeast has come up to room temp. Otherwise, if you ...


4

I get the same kraeusen when using liquid yeast - it's not from hydration shock. In fact, the dead yeast that don't survive hydration simply fall to the bottom of the fermentor. The reason for the kraeusen is the constant churning of the wort during active fermentation, which mixes proteins, tannins and hop-alpha acids to create the structure for the ...


4

It is recommended to decant and dispose of the starter beer because the starter beer is nasty and oxidized, nasty and devoid of fermentable sugar by the time the yeast have reproduced to pitching levels. "You would not brew a beer with this level of oxidation, so why would blend it into your beer?", goes the thinking.


3

Increasing the innoculation rate alone will not necessarily result in a linear increase in cells. You'll have twice as many cells now competing for the same amount of sugars and nutrients, they may not be able to do as well. White and Zainasheff's Yeast has some empirical data about changing the innoculation rate by changing the volume of a starter, with a ...


2

1/2 gallon (~1900mL) will probably net you about 350bn cells (if you have a stir plate, yeast isn't too old, &c.). For 100L of ~1.040 wort, you want closer to 750bn cells (depending on gravity, assuming an ale). Use a pitch rate and starter calculator to get a better sense of your requirements for yeast and the the sizes/steps of starter needed to get ...


2

Monoammonium phosphate and diammonium phosphate contain all the same chemical compounds (phosphate ions, ammonium ions, and hydrogen ions), the major difference is that MAP has a second hydrogen in place of the ammonium. So, if you buy food grade stuff, it should be totally safe to consume, however, pH is determined by those hydrogen ions, so your wine may ...


2

With StarSan (really, with any no-rinse sanitizer), as long as you're using it at the prescribed dosage and draining your vessel well, there's absolutely no danger to your yeast. There would need to be a lot of sanitizer (like dumping your yeast straight into the sanitizing solution) to have an effect on it. Even that probably wouldn't kill it, though it ...


1

I don't think that's unusual. I've had a similar experience where the starter overflowed massively and constantly, creating a huge mess. It didn't happen every time I made a starter, but twice was too much. I don't actually use my Erlenmeyer flask anymore because of this. I may someday buy another 3 liter flask, but in the meantime I've reserved a growler ...


1

It is not unusual. I'd easily believe that a 1.5L starter would overfill a 2L erlenmeyer at full krausen. I would suggest using an anti-foam agent in the future. I regularly do 1.6L starters in a 2L erlenmeyer w/o any hesitation or foam-over, due to the introductions of 1-2 drops of liquid simethicone (baby anti-gas drops), available in your local ...


1

If you pitch before the yeast had a chance to finish fermenting, you're pitching a less than optimal amount of yeast. Also, depending on the OG of the wort you grew your starter in, you may have suboptimal cell count and health. These also look like pretty small starters for lager.


1

If possible, you should always crash and decant the bland, unhopped starter beer. But especially for lagers, where the starter volume is usually larger to get a larger cell count. At the same time, ~1.7L into ~19L is only ~10%, it won't affect the batch too much. Also, lager yeasts do have a full range of flocculation characteristics, they're not ...


1

Take a gravity reading. Visual inspection doesn't tell you much about whether fermentation is happening or not.


1

Yes. Pitching a portion of the yeast into a new starter would certainly produce a revitalized pitch of yeast. Whether or not that makes sense probably depends on how long it's going to be before you plan to actually use the yeast. The yeast will be most healthy toward the end of the starter's fermentation, so I've known homebrewers who keep stored yeast in ...


1

It's too late for this beer in my opinion. Adding DME+water could work at a really high concentration. I have never done this, but there's no reason why that wouldn't work. But that seems more trouble than its worth to me. A new starter should not be necessary. To be honest, you should have left the extra sugar out. That's just going to thin it out and ...


1

I used to add baking yeast into the starter boil as a nutrient to my beer yeast, all good. I believe you're safe with what you want to do. One last Q, how did you determine that the yeast is not viable? I fridge store my yeast samples for a year and get a visibly healthy starter after 2 days of inoculation. "Visibly" as in "it bubbles a lot".


1

In many cases, the starter beer is simply going to be diluting the wort, and not necessarily in a compatible way. The starter beer is probably not the same color, malt make up, hop profile, &c. as related to the beer. Plus, as ChinoBrews mentions, if properly aerated, the starter beer is likely to be oxidized. For the requisite starter volume for most ...


1

Obviously you know now that you are under-pitching with the 1/2 gallon starter idea. For 100L you'd need several stir plates going really. IMO, the best bet would be to brew a standard 20L batch, then use that entire cake as the pitch for the 100L batch.



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