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18

The recommended cell count for ales is 0.75 to 1 million cells per milliliter per degree plato (ca. 4 gravity points.) For 5 gallons (~18.9L) of typical strength beer of 1.048, that's about 12 plato, so you'll need 1 million x 18900 x 12 = 226.8 billion cells. According to wyeast, the smackpack contains at least 100 billion cells, which is half of what ...


13

It should be fine if you store it in the fridge for up to 1-2 weeks. I have heard you could let it go longer but to be on the safe side I would use it sooner rather than later. If you do let it sit longer you could always decant the liquid and add more wort to get it going again.


11

Speaking from experience as a molecular biologist. Erlynmeyer flasks are nice for a couple of reasons. The main alternative being a standard beaker which is essentially the same size at the top and the bottom. First off the neck size makes it easy to hold in the hand. Second a smaller opening reduces the chance of getting airborne material into the flask. ...


8

No, there's no need to hop a starter. You aren't trying to make a beer, you're trying to replicate yeast. Hop oils do actually inhibit the growth of yeast a little, so adding them to your starter would defeat the purpose.


8

Danstar BRY-97 is a great option for American-style IPAs. It starts out kind of rough, but if you give it enough time to condition, it makes an amazing beer. Fermentis Safale US-05 and Danstar Nottingham also a popular choices for American-style IPAs. You should ferment them at the low end of their temperature ranges. For English-style IPAs, you can use ...


7

The point of a stirplate is to help the yeast propagate by aerating the wort. Yeast Propagation and Maintainance claim stirring can increase yeast cell count by 10-15 times, compared to simply using an airlock (non-aerated) or 2.5 times the cell count of the traditionally aerated starter (aquarium pump). It's important not to use an airlock, since the ...


7

The starter is still good in that time. Very roughly, a 2L starter, presumably from a vial or smack pack, probably netted you between 200bn and 400bn cells. If you used 3/4 of it, you probably have 50-100bn cells left … about the amount in a smack pack/vial. As such, you should probably make a new starter from the remains of the previous one.


6

Start early- take the yeast of out the refrigerator ~3 days before brewday, and let it warm up to room temperature. Boil a pint (2 cups) of water and mix in 1/2 a cup of dry malt extract (DME). Boil that for 10 minutes. Optionally add yeast nutrients at this point. Cool the water to 80 degrees or less (set the pan in a sink with an inch or two of water, ...


6

Pitching the slurry is key to your process here. The higher temp will put some less desirable flavors into the starter wort. So crash chilling and pitching the slurry is the best bet. I think I remember hearing a podcast with Chris White from White Labs say they propagate most yeast (even lager yeasts) at 80F. Most yeast grows best at temps above normal ...


6

The nutrient in a Wyeast pouch is around 1.020. There's not enough of it there to have an appreciable effect on your starter gravity. You can pretty much discount it entirely.


5

Those using airlocks are missing the point of the starter, as you mention: you need O₂ to be introduced to promote healthy yeast reproduction. (You also want to get CO₂ degassed out, as well, which is another benefit to a stirplate, as it will help achieve both goals.) I wouldn't even worry about sanitizing the aluminum foil coming just off a roll, but if ...


5

The yeast will grow and multiply in dextrose. Supposedly, though, while they grow up in the dextrose they begin to down-regulate the genes required for fermentation of maltose. So when you pitch them into the maltose rich wort, they struggle a bit before fermentation really takes off. How big of an impact it has on the final beer is hard to say. ...


5

I recommend making a yeast starter for every beer you use liquid yeast for (I have little experience with dry yeast because I stopped using it after my first few batches). You don't need a starter all the time, but it's on my list of best practices. You will almost always see better fermentation if you use a starter. It will start faster (which helps a ton ...


5

There are three main reasons for stepping up: having too much medium and too little yeast increases the risk of contamination considerably. a large quantity of medium causes the first few generations of yeast to bud rapidly, resulting in lots of scar tissue which functions poorly as a membrane. It allows the strength of the wort to start out low and ...


5

No, a mash and short boil will be fine. I sometimes add enough grain to account for an extra gallon or so on a regular-sized all-grain batch, then pressure-can or freeze the resulting wort for starters in the future.


5

If the starter was not hopped, you should be ok since the hops are needed to produce the skunky flavors. The UV radiation in sunlight can damage yeast cells, but they are capable of self-repair to a degree, so there should still be plenty of viable cells to continue fermentation. It's a good idea to not pitch the spent starter wort in general, here, I ...


5

If the starter fully fermented, most of the 1.040 should be gone; normal yeast attenuation is around 75%, so you should have 1L of 1.010 beer in the starter vessel. 1L of 1.010 beer into 19L of 1.076 OG wort would reduce the OG down to about 1.073. (76 points * 19L + 10 points * 1L) / 20L = 72.7 points = 1.073. Though if possible, you should try to ...


5

I do this about once or twice a year. I'm an all grain brewer, so I typically just brew a batch of base malt. You can do the same with buying some DME/LME and adding that to the right amount of water to get the SG around 1.035-1.040. Your process sounds good, although I would probably blend all the DME and water at once so you can check the SG, and then ...


5

Mostly economical, yes. Another reason is potentially limited (or non-existent) commercial availability of specific strains. Either the yeast company's seasonal strain releases or something cultivated from yeast remaining in the bottle. Another reason is to develop a "house" strain, or to modify the behavior of an existing strain. For instance, the ...


5

US-05 (= Wyeast1056, = WLP001) is a pretty good option for IPAs. Dry yeast should be rehydrated, but the higher cell count generally means you don't need a starter.


4

Here is a link to a NB document that outlines how to use one and two stage yeast starter. There are some lengthy equations that can easily be entered into a spreadsheet for easy calculation. It will also give you the different rates when using a stir plate.


4

Assuming you boiled the DME with water, and chilled, then there's no problem. Old DME may not taste especially great, but it still has all the sugars and free amino nitrogen that the yeast need, and is still fit to function as wort for a starter. Before pitching, decant a little and have a taste of the starter. Not only will this let you sample some of the ...


4

Your brew will definite taste salty with that quantity of minerals added. I would use a third of that amount. 150ppm calcium and 250ppm sulphates is really the upper limit of what you can comfortably use in the beer, and you will still taste a little salt up front, but often it goes with the style. Here are some guidelines from the HBT wiki, ...


4

A krausen is created mostly from coagulating proteins and high yeast activity. You may still get a krausen at ale temps with the lager yeast due to the level of activity, but in general it's hit and miss how much yeast you get from top cropping, even more so with a bottom fermenting strain. In your shoes, I would divide the smack pack yeast between two ...


4

You don't necessarily need to make a starter if you are re-pitching within a few weeks because the viability of the yeast will still be pretty high. But, if you store the yeast for much time you should always make a starter. This ensures that the yeast is still viable and it will help ensure the yeast are active so you don't have a long lag time during ...


4

A dry sachet contains about 200 billion cells when new, with a decrease of around 4% per month thereafer. For a beer in the 1.070 range, recommended pitching rates are 1-1.5 million cells / ml / 4 SG or about 330-450 billion cells in 5 gallons. So pitching a single pack of 200 billion cells is going to be underpitching, and one pack split is very much ...


4

A short starter is fine. I often have starters that begin stirring when I start the brewday, so they're only going for 8-10 hours max. With appropriate handling, the risk of contamination can be mitigated and reduced to be negligible. Due to the small amount of wort, lag time with a vial of yeast is at most a couple of hours (assuming a fresh vial.) Yeast ...


4

The cake is referring the yeast the was produced from a previous batch of beer. Yeast reproduces as it ferments the beer. The layer on the bottom of the fermenter is the yeast that grew during fermentation. Some people will brew a batch of beer and pitch it directly onto the cake created from a previous brew. The preferred method would be to wash the yeast ...


4

It does cold crash them, reducing activity to force them to flocculate and sediment out of solution. It does passivate them, generally shutting down their metabolism. It does not inactivate or destroy them, however; the yeast are still alive, just dormant. Bring them back up to pitching temperature and introduce them to fresh wort, and they will reproduce ...


4

First, unless the starter temp goes over maybe 90F, there is no damage to the yeast itself. second, for a starter of the size that you'll need for a tripel, the best course of action is to decant the spent wort before pitching so it won't have any flavor effect on your beer. remember, with a starter you're growing yeast, not making beer, and a starter ...



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