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Here is a link to a document written by Steve Piatz who was the AHA mead maker of the year a few years ago. The method is often referred to as the staggered nutrient addition method. The types of nutrients typically used are Yeast Energizer which contains diammonium phosphate(DAP) and fermaid K or Nutriferm Advance which are similar nutrient blends. The ...


3

For starter wort you can use the 1/2 tsp and a sachet of yeast hulls, although I usually double this, just to make sure the yeast have all they need. I've even used 1/2 tsp in a single 1 quart starter with no ill effects. The yeast hulls are necessary since they contain trace elements that are essential for the yeast. The diammonium phosphate is only ...


3

you can boil half a sachet of yeast and add that to the must. It provides many of the trace elements needed by the yeast, but I'm not sure how much nitrogen it provides, which is the key nutrient required in mead. If the mead is not very strong, you can in fact successfully ferment without nutrient, just pitch 50% extra yeast.


2

I first saw this method in The Compleat MeadMaker by Ken Schramm. It seems northern-brewer-chris also uses a method that's similar. Ever since I read this, I've been practicing it and I've never looked back. I can finish a clean (not hot) mead fermentation in 6-8 weeks now instead of the accepted, ambiguous "months". I still spend a good bit of time aging ...


2

Also keep in mind that mead long predates yeast nutrients. The old Greek formula went something like: Put three parts water and one part honey in an amphora in the sun for a few days. Enjoy. That must have been some sweet, syrupy mead. However, the point is that if you can't get the yeast nutrients, you can always try brewing mead without them. FWIW I ...


1

It's said that lemon juice and raisins can provide nutrients to the yeast. Despite the fact that "yeast nutrient" is an ingredient in the dandelion wine recipe I'm using, so are lemon pulp and raisins, so maybe it will be okay in the end. My official answer is 2 Tbsp of brewer's yeast. Time will tell...


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Servomyces is simply dead yeast. Prior to being killed, it was fed micronutrients which have been stored in the yeast. There's no harm pitching more into your starter, assuming you then later pitch to 5 gallons or more. If your starter yeast don't use all the nutrients, your main brew certainly will, so there's no harm pitching the entire capsule. The White ...


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I agree with the "leave it alone" advice. Between the extract and the dark grains, you had a fair amount of unfermentables in there which is likely what's responsible. BTW, I see you pitched at 75F. Your beer will probably turn out much better of you'd get the temp down another 10F before pitching.


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I would not mess around with it. Looking at the recipe I don't think you would expect to much more of a gravity change. Normally I advocate leaving any beer in primary for 14 days. And then a beer with this starting gravity would defenitaly be fine for 14 days. Your recipe has a fair amount of darker specialty grains in it and that will contribute to the ...



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