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12

In the January/February 2012 issue of Zymurgy there was an article on this very subject. The author gets into the detailed math of of heat transfer and then tries 6 approaches to using an immersion chiller to see which works best. His result was that the chiller worked best with the highest water pressure, and that swirling the chiller in the wort chilled ...


7

Wort chillers operate by transferring heat across a surface - the hot wort and the cold water set up a temperature gradient, so heat flows between them across the material of the chiller. Copper has a thermal conductivity of around 380, while stainless steel has a conductivity of around 20. If you built two chillers that were identical apart from the ...


5

I always thought of this as being a HUGE no no. But I guess not...below is from John Palmer. People often wonder about adding ice directly to the cooling wort. This idea works well if you remember a couple key points. Never use commercial ice. It can harbor dormant bacteria that could spoil your beer. Always boil the water before freezing it in ...


5

If you're chiller has garden hose adaptors on it you will simply want one of these: Faucet Adaptor I haven't seen too many of these at the hardware store, but they are a common item at most LHBSs.


4

Assuming that you have cleaned and sanitized the ice packs, this should work. Are you stirring the wort while it cools? I find this helps a lot, especially as the temperature cools. Without stirring the cooled wort will sit over the chiller and the center of the pot isn't as effectively cooled. Sticking your kettle in an ice bath once you get to the lower ...


4

Do you really need to dry it out? I just hook my "exhaust" hose up and let it do whatever it does when that water comes out. When I brewed in the kitchen, I used a piece of garden hose for exhaust (If I were doing this again, I'd cut a piece long enough to reach the sink) and captured the hot water that you're speaking of in a half-gallon container. ...


3

Some people say that it's better to include the IC in your boil (if it's copper) as the copper gives off micronutrients (namely zinc) as well as providing a nucleation point which reduces the chance of boilovers. See Pennies in the Boil


3

You don't want to clean a copper chiller so it is shiny - if you remove the dull color (stable oxide), the metal is more likely to react and form the toxic blue-green oxide (verdigris). http://byo.com/stories/projects-and-equipment/item/1144-metallurgy-for-homebrewers Copper is relatively inert to both wort and beer. With regular use, it will build up ...


3

Seems like a good idea, especially if you tested it with boiling water it and it worked, and you sanitize it well. You would also want to make sure your siphon and tubing are all good for hot liquids. The only potential problem I can think of is that borosilicate glass (which I'm assuming is what your condenser is made out of) is very resistant to ...


3

the short answer is: no, you do not need one, particularly if you are going to keep brewing 2.5gal batches. For most doing partial-volume boils with immersion chillers/plate chillers, I don't know that the cooling time is THAT much shorter than your method. See Palmer and others for the benefits of cooling quickly (facilitates cold break, etc.) However, ...


3

With an immersion chiller, you'll get the best efficiency, and use the least amount water if you run the water at a speed so that it comes out fairly warm, while also stirring the wort at the same time. This ensures that the cooler wort in contact with the chiller is continually replaced with hotter wort, maximizing efficiency. Increasing the speed may ...


2

If you run the chill water full bore you get the largest potential difference between the wort temp and the water temp. It would seem like this is the ideal potential, but I my experience it is not. I always found that the fastest chill rate was when the water was coming out hot to warm and not coming out cold. When you run the water full bore, despite the ...


2

The best thing to do with a counter flow chiller is to make sure it is clean and drained completely before storage. I will usually run boiling water through the chiller to clean but you can also use PBW as long as you rinse it with warm water. Blowing it out with an air compressor will help drain the rest of the water. You don't want to store it with ...


2

This is how I do all of my brews. I usually boil about 11/12L for a 20/21L batch, put a filter over the primary bucket, pour the wort in from a bit of a height to help aerate, add ice until I get the right temperature then top up with water. The "right temperature" might be a couple of degrees above / below target, depending on whether the top up water is ...


2

Turn the coil on its side, so that the coil is now horizontal rather than vertical, and then rotate in the direction of the coil, the water will eventually come out at the top. The water wants to fall to the lowest point, and so follows the path of the coil as you rotate it, eventually coming out the exit.


2

I would pass on that technique. Most ice packs I have seen have weird textured surfaces. There is also embossed lettering on them too. The likelyhood of actually sanitizing all though nooks and crannies is low. Unless you are talking about sourcing some uber smooth surfaced bottles and freezing them it might be worth a try on a few brews. I suggest you ...


2

It's a fine idea. The nice thing about the "traditional" approach is that the surfaces that touch the wort are exposed, easily cleaned, and can be inspected for cleanliness. Plus, as someone commented, you'll need a pump to move the wort through the IC, which is another complication and something else to clean. For a long time, I did something similar (and ...


1

The easiest and cheapest solution is to either use hop bags/socks or build a hop bag hanger which is also known as a hop spider and other names. Google for those and you'll find some simple, easy designs you can build with a quick trip to the hardware store. If you have a Blichman kettle, you can try the Hop Blocker. Keep in mind that this is only designed ...


1

As long as it isn't rusted and/or leaking, you're probably fine. If it were me, I'd take some polish to it and make sure to rinse it thoroughly afterwards just to be certain. You may not have to, but my perfectionism would scream at me for any mistakes in the flavor of the beer, even if it had nothing to do with the chiller. I vividly remember having to ...


1

I hold it upside down for a few seconds and roll it around (the direction the water would flow naturally) which sounds just like what you do! But when I add the wort chiller to the boil kettle the hose is hooked up and the out-flow is pointed in the direction I want the water to go (sink, bucket, ext (i brew outside so the lawn) this could eliminate your ...


1

The only problem I can think of might be contamination or (depending on the age of your ice...) picking up off flavors from the ice. Remember that it will also dilute your wort by some (probably calculable) amount. If you're doing a concentrated boil anyway, then it would be easy enough to dump the hot wort onto your extra 2-3 gallons of ice. I ...


1

I have a copper wort-chiller as well, but before I had it, I used ice to cool my beer. I would sterilize Pyrex glass containers, and put boiled-and-cooled water in them, and into the freezer a few days before brewing. I would put the pot in a sink full of cold water, and put the ice from the container into the pot (not the whole container). I just topped ...


1

Chillers work by using the difference in heat between the wort and the water through the chiller to cool the wort. To maximize the effect you want the coolest possible water going through the chiller at the highest possible flow rate. if you run the water through slowly it will be warm/hot halfway through the coils and therefore providing no cooling action ...


1

I have been brewing for about a year now. I have not done anything other than extract yet but I always do 5 gal boils. At the end of my boil I put my pot in a large plastic bin with 40lbs of ice and a little water to float the ice and stir for about 20 minutes. After 20 min my wert down to pitching temp and I have had no problems with infection even with ...


1

Unless you're careful with filtering, plate chillers can and do clog up with debris. Any debris that's trapped during transfer needs to be backflushed out by connecting the wort inlet to the water supply. The high pressure usually pushes out most of the debris, but it's still necessary to bake the chiller in the oven every few batches, and maybe run caustic ...


1

Brad Smith had John Blichmann on the BeerSmith podcast recently and they discussed cleaning and sanitizing these things. Seems like a non-issue to me after hearing John describe it. You just back-flush with hot water, then PBW, then Star-San and call it a day. Do it immediately after using it to prevent crud from building up. Those I know who have ...



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