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12

In the January/February 2012 issue of Zymurgy there was an article on this very subject. The author gets into the detailed math of of heat transfer and then tries 6 approaches to using an immersion chiller to see which works best. His result was that the chiller worked best with the highest water pressure, and that swirling the chiller in the wort chilled ...


7

Plate chillers are generally regarded as being the most efficient, and so typically require less water for the same amount of cooling compared to counter flow and immersion chillers. The largest plate chillers from dudadiesel can chill a 10 gallon batch in 15 seconds according to their figures, but these cost over a grand, and they are using flowrates not ...


7

Wort chillers operate by transferring heat across a surface - the hot wort and the cold water set up a temperature gradient, so heat flows between them across the material of the chiller. Copper has a thermal conductivity of around 380, while stainless steel has a conductivity of around 20. If you built two chillers that were identical apart from the ...


7

You should be capturing hot water out of your chiller for cleaning so that water is dual purpose. Second I was really able to cut down on water usage with a more efficient chilling operation. For me I invested in a bigger immersion chiller (50ft with 1/2in tubing) and put a pump into operation. I recirc my wort while chilling creating a whirpool. This is ...


6

First of all, don't be so hard on yourself. Think of all the efficiencies made by brewing and drinking your own stuff. The beer in the store was driven there in a big, fossil fuel burning truck, with a whole lot of water used in the process. Home brewed beer comes in either re-used glass bottles, or re-purposed soda kegs, never in cans that end up in a ...


5

If you're chiller has garden hose adaptors on it you will simply want one of these: Faucet Adaptor I haven't seen too many of these at the hardware store, but they are a common item at most LHBSs.


5

I always thought of this as being a HUGE no no. But I guess not...below is from John Palmer. People often wonder about adding ice directly to the cooling wort. This idea works well if you remember a couple key points. Never use commercial ice. It can harbor dormant bacteria that could spoil your beer. Always boil the water before freezing it in ...


5

Cleaning: If you use PBW, one batch of PBW can be reused many many times. This may also be true of other cleaners, but I've only ever used PBW. Sanitizing: As with PBW, one batch of StarSan can be reused many times. The key with StarSan is to make the batch with the cleanest water possible and then keep it in a sealed container. Cooling: There are lots of ...


4

Assuming that you have cleaned and sanitized the ice packs, this should work. Are you stirring the wort while it cools? I find this helps a lot, especially as the temperature cools. Without stirring the cooled wort will sit over the chiller and the center of the pot isn't as effectively cooled. Sticking your kettle in an ice bath once you get to the lower ...


4

Do you really need to dry it out? I just hook my "exhaust" hose up and let it do whatever it does when that water comes out. When I brewed in the kitchen, I used a piece of garden hose for exhaust (If I were doing this again, I'd cut a piece long enough to reach the sink) and captured the hot water that you're speaking of in a half-gallon container. ...


4

Ya know what? In reality, it just doesn't matter. I drop the same old funky immersion chiller I've been using for years into the wort. Then I take the output hose from my pump and clamp it to the side of the kettle, pointing kinda sideways below wort level. It's equally as effective as a friend's setup that's similar to a couple of your designs. Don't ...


3

This is how I do all of my brews. I usually boil about 11/12L for a 20/21L batch, put a filter over the primary bucket, pour the wort in from a bit of a height to help aerate, add ice until I get the right temperature then top up with water. The "right temperature" might be a couple of degrees above / below target, depending on whether the top up water is ...


3

Turn the coil on its side, so that the coil is now horizontal rather than vertical, and then rotate in the direction of the coil, the water will eventually come out at the top. The water wants to fall to the lowest point, and so follows the path of the coil as you rotate it, eventually coming out the exit.


3

Seems like a good idea, especially if you tested it with boiling water it and it worked, and you sanitize it well. You would also want to make sure your siphon and tubing are all good for hot liquids. The only potential problem I can think of is that borosilicate glass (which I'm assuming is what your condenser is made out of) is very resistant to ...


3

If you really want to get the water out, just blow in one end (careful not to pass out though!)


3

the short answer is: no, you do not need one, particularly if you are going to keep brewing 2.5gal batches. For most doing partial-volume boils with immersion chillers/plate chillers, I don't know that the cooling time is THAT much shorter than your method. See Palmer and others for the benefits of cooling quickly (facilitates cold break, etc.) However, ...


3

With an immersion chiller, you'll get the best efficiency, and use the least amount water if you run the water at a speed so that it comes out fairly warm, while also stirring the wort at the same time. This ensures that the cooler wort in contact with the chiller is continually replaced with hotter wort, maximizing efficiency. Increasing the speed may ...


3

You don't want to clean a copper chiller so it is shiny - if you remove the dull color (stable oxide), the metal is more likely to react and form the toxic blue-green oxide (verdigris). http://byo.com/stories/projects-and-equipment/item/1144-metallurgy-for-homebrewers Copper is relatively inert to both wort and beer. With regular use, it will build up ...


3

Some people say that it's better to include the IC in your boil (if it's copper) as the copper gives off micronutrients (namely zinc) as well as providing a nucleation point which reduces the chance of boilovers. See Pennies in the Boil


3

In my experience, I never get a trub cone with the chiller in place. And I don't think you will. Too much turbulence as the wort whirlpools for a nice clean pot centered cone of trub. Of course the turbulence leads to great chilling via a great turnover of wort volume and surface area contact with the chiller. I only get a nice cone in a standard pot ...


2

If you run the chill water full bore you get the largest potential difference between the wort temp and the water temp. It would seem like this is the ideal potential, but I my experience it is not. I always found that the fastest chill rate was when the water was coming out hot to warm and not coming out cold. When you run the water full bore, despite the ...


2

The best thing to do with a counter flow chiller is to make sure it is clean and drained completely before storage. I will usually run boiling water through the chiller to clean but you can also use PBW as long as you rinse it with warm water. Blowing it out with an air compressor will help drain the rest of the water. You don't want to store it with ...


2

I have a copper wort-chiller as well, but before I had it, I used ice to cool my beer. I would sterilize Pyrex glass containers, and put boiled-and-cooled water in them, and into the freezer a few days before brewing. I would put the pot in a sink full of cold water, and put the ice from the container into the pot (not the whole container). I just topped ...


2

I would pass on that technique. Most ice packs I have seen have weird textured surfaces. There is also embossed lettering on them too. The likelyhood of actually sanitizing all though nooks and crannies is low. Unless you are talking about sourcing some uber smooth surfaced bottles and freezing them it might be worth a try on a few brews. I suggest you ...


2

It's fine to boil the chiller for a few minutes to sanitize it. Just make sure you give the chiller a good cleaning in acetic acid prior to its first use, as per Palmer's advice.


2

The easiest and cheapest solution is to either use hop bags/socks or build a hop bag hanger which is also known as a hop spider and other names. Google for those and you'll find some simple, easy designs you can build with a quick trip to the hardware store. If you have a Blichman kettle, you can try the Hop Blocker. Keep in mind that this is only designed ...


2

It's a fine idea. The nice thing about the "traditional" approach is that the surfaces that touch the wort are exposed, easily cleaned, and can be inspected for cleanliness. Plus, as someone commented, you'll need a pump to move the wort through the IC, which is another complication and something else to clean. For a long time, I did something similar (and ...


1

After every 10 or so brews, I soak mine in powdered brewery wash (PBW), goes in with a rainbow of colors comes out looking like new. Plus, no elbow grease required.


1

As long as it isn't rusted and/or leaking, you're probably fine. If it were me, I'd take some polish to it and make sure to rinse it thoroughly afterwards just to be certain. You may not have to, but my perfectionism would scream at me for any mistakes in the flavor of the beer, even if it had nothing to do with the chiller. I vividly remember having to ...


1

I hold it upside down for a few seconds and roll it around (the direction the water would flow naturally) which sounds just like what you do! But when I add the wort chiller to the boil kettle the hose is hooked up and the out-flow is pointed in the direction I want the water to go (sink, bucket, ext (i brew outside so the lawn) this could eliminate your ...



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