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6

This will not work with a tea-bag or any other kind of cloth. Unless it's enclosed in a very fine membrane the yeast would easily be able to get through, then disperse and propogate in the main liquid. However, something like this can actually be done. Some homebrewers have taken a high-technology cue from industrial beer and do what's known as an ...


4

Yes, is is a problem. After primary fermentation, one of the most important staling agents your homebrew will face is oxygen. Pouring will almost guarantee the introduction of oxygen, whereas siphoning minimizes it.


4

Temperature would be my first bet. You didn't mention what temperature you experienced during your primary fermentation. If your temperature was appropriate for the champagne yeast, then my next bet would be that your OG was not very high; therefore your yeast ate up what little sugar was present in a comparatively short time. Did you augment the bananas ...


3

Turns out that, at least in my case, freezing the dry yeast is actually a bad idea. I made an experiment last night and I put two sachets of ICV D-47 in the freezer and two sachets in the fridge. This morning I took both of them out and let them warm up in the room. I used the same activating mixture I've always used (some must + some nutrients) and split ...


3

Raisins are dried grapes, containing around 65 % sugar by weight, and all that grape flavor in concentrated and slightly modified form. They add sugar, body, and flavor to the wine. If a recipe calls for raisins, there may be varying reasons why. In this case, I would believe that the raisins are included for all three reasons listed here. Although I have ...


3

Bulk aging has one advantage over bottle aging, it ages much faster. Once in the bottle, wine will still age, but less. Also, if you add Potasium Metabisulfate right before you bottle it will stop the yeast. A big way fermented beverages age(not distilled) is from the yeast still living. This will lessen the aging process. Overall: Do what tastes the ...


2

I don't believe most wine makers make these decisions up front, at least not for juice that they have not worked with before. Instead, you taste the wine at packaging time and then adjust accordingly with glycerin for sweetness or acids for tartness. Commercial producers may blend finished wines, but ultimately it involves tasting throughout the whole ...


2

I believe that the short answer is yes, artificial light can cause sun damage too. Ultra-violet light is cited as the primary spectrum/wavelength/frequency that has the biggest impact, and while direct sunlight is going to have much more of it and therefore be more detrimental over time, light bulbs generally emit a certain amount of UV too. From what I've ...


2

To Exactly answer your questions: Is it possible, Does anyone know the process? Yes, you would have to ferment some wine then add a very high ABV% of Alcohol, acquired, paid or distilled by another means. Example ratio: 300ml of 10% wine + 700ml of 80% spirit = 59%ABV How much yeast, should I use in the grape juice? Go for 1 tsp per gallon(4.5L). can I ...


2

There is some risk of infection by beer-dwelling organisms, especially souring bacteria. Sanitation is less critical after primary, but if you want to be certain, clean utensils with something food-safe like Star San.


2

Well, theoretically you can add any kind of yeast to any kind of grape extract and, provided conditions are sanitary, you don't get an infection, and you give it enough time to ferment, you will have a wine of some sort. Unfortunately, it probably won't be very good. In fact, it will probably be horrible. To make drinkable wine will require proper juice, ...


1

I have never head this before, and after looking around quite a bit I couldn't find any evidence to support (or even suggest) the link. Only thing I can think of is either: this refers to a non S. cerevisiae yeast (maybe Brett or some other wild yeast), though I couldn't find any evidence of that either; or, some other substance beneficial to yeast happens ...


1

You don't mention specifics of sanitation in your description above, but you do mention the "warming" of some of the raw juice to desolve extra sugar. This implies that the rest of your raw juice was not warmed. Was all of the raw juice ever boiled to remove the natural yeast and other fawna from the skins? If not, your medium sherry might be the result ...


1

It does seem like your rapid staling could easily be due to oxygen exposure. To protect against this, you'd have to find a way to agitate it under an inert gas atmosphere (after primary is perfect since the head space in your fermenter is pure CO2, if you don't take lids or airlocks off). Otherwise you'll just be whipping/splashing/stirring air into the ...


1

A cheesy smell usually means you have bacteria in your mash and they have access to oxygen. If this were a sour-mashed beer it would be considered a lost cause at this point. I don't know how this kit is supposed to work, but it's sounds like sanitation is the issue.


1

The best thing you can do now is wait. Chances are the yeast are still actively metabolizing sugars, albeit a bit slower than earlier in the fermentation. Check it in a week, and if the gravity hasn't dropped significantly, consider pitching a fresh packet of yeast. What you don't want to do is bottle the wine now. If fermentation is, as I suspect, ...


1

According to jackkeller.net, the action of pectic enzymes is reduced by high levels of sulphur dioxide. The gases dissipate after the addition of the campden tablets, which is the reason for recommending to wait 12 hours before adding the enzymes. (Whether the enzymes are actually denatured by the sulphur dioxide is somewhat unclear.)


1

Your must is basically simple sugar and entirely fermentable. Your temps may be a little high so the yeast worked quickly. I'd be sure to leave the whole thing for a couple weeks to allow the yeast time to clean up some of the bi-products of fermentation. Then I'd rack to a new container for a longer aging period. Taste it then to see how it tastes. If ...


1

What you're describing is called a colony of cells called a pellicle. According to Home Brew Talk's wiki: A pellicle is a lumpy, slimy white film that is formed by some strains of wild yeast, notably brettanomyces, during fermentation. A film on your beer in the fermenter or the bottle almost always indicates an infection, unless you have ...


1

The theory is that by making several sugar additions mid-fermentation instead of front-loading all of the sugar is that it will not shock/stress the yeast outright in the beginning by the high amount of sugar, and will allow the yeast to re-produce in a more hospitable environment, since alcohol (in high amounts) is toxic to yeast. With that in mind, you ...


1

I have limited experience with fermenting fruits except for the orange mead I make. I recently made a batch that I left on the fruit for more than 3 months. It tastes fantastic and is perfectly clear, bottling it this weekend. As long as you pasteurized the pulp and made sure everything was clean and sanitary, then I don't see how it could be messed up. You ...


1

When making beer, wine, or mead, there is nothing that you can't not sanitize. It takes all of 5-10 minutes to stir up a batch of One-Step or Star San and sanitize your equipment, and it pretty greatly reduces your chances of contamination (assuming proper handling of the equipment). While the alcohol content should kill bacteria, sanitizer will.


1

I have been making wine for many years and recently beer. I always sanitize anything that may come in contact with the wine or beer at any point in the process. Contamination is something cannot be undone, you are better safe than sorry.


1

I always wash my test equipment like I wash any other kitchen utensils.


1

Once you get to the last few bottles of a kit, maybe six months to a year after it was made, you'll kick yourself for drinking the others too early. Wine needs time, simple answer to your question. But as was stated earlier, its marketing, by the kit companies. I never had a kit that didnt improve with time.


1

Buy some wine yeast - don't use bread yeast - wine yeast is more alcohol tolerant and will give you the best chance of producing something like wine. But even so, nowhere near 60% - most yeasts stop around 14-18 percent abv.


1

Getting ABV at that level is possible through distillation process. Although it won't be classified as wine anymore if the ABV is 60%. Here you go to get started making wine. You can know how much yeast should be used at that tutorial as well. We can make wine using either brewer or baking yeast and it's drinkable, but you won't get optimal result if ...



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