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24

There are several ways that you can remove chlorination from your tap water before you brew with it. This topic should help you to choose which one is right for you. Off-gassing If you water contains only chlorine and not chloramine, you can let it sit for 24 hours and the chlorine will dissipate into the environment. Pros: Free Cons: Takes a long ...


13

The caps are not perfectly smooth - they contain nucleation points, imperfections or dirt along the surface, where a bubble could form (similar to how boils are formed at nucleation points when heating water). As the cold water heats up, dissolved gasses are forced out of solution. Some of this gas dissipates, but some of it will attach to the nucleation ...


10

First off, you're going to want to figure out the immersion chiller's flow rate. Depending on your water pressure, tube length, and tube diameter, I think it could range anywhere from 1 gallon a minute to 10 gallons a minute. You can approximate it's output by timing how long it takes you to fill your carboy with a garden hose or sink, whichever applies to ...


10

I would strongly recommend brown glass bottles for bottling (hey why not ditch bottles and switch to kegging!). As mentioned there are many potential issues with reusing plastic bottles. Water Bottles are not designed to hold pressure. I keep my kegs around 11PSI. Homebrewers always recommend to be careful with naturally carbed bottles as they might ...


8

Technically tap water should always be sanitized. Realistically I've never sanitized tap water and never had a problem. Your beer should be fine.


7

Most tap water (in America) is good for brewing I recommend removing (filtering) or adding things to your water only if you have a problem with it. (Or want to create a beer with a historic profile, like Burton on Trent, Pilsen, or Dublin.) Your water influences a few things in the brewing process, namely the mash and the overall product. When evaluating ...


7

There certainly isn't any harm on doing it at bottling. You just don't want to do it prior to bottling. Adding straight water to the beer might oxidize the beer. I'd just recommend that you boil the water for a good 15 minutes first to drive off any oxygen that's in the water. If you don't then that O2 will mix and oxidize the beer. I'd boil for 15, ...


7

The easy way is to download Martin Brungard's excellent brewing water software "Bru'n Water" and follow the steps for Burton water in it.


7

You should be capturing hot water out of your chiller for cleaning so that water is dual purpose. Second I was really able to cut down on water usage with a more efficient chilling operation. For me I invested in a bigger immersion chiller (50ft with 1/2in tubing) and put a pump into operation. I recirc my wort while chilling creating a whirpool. This is ...


7

I think the factor isn't that you want sterile wort, but sanitized wort. You may not get sterile wort from boiling, but that isn't a problem. The wort is surrounded by barely sanitary air, so it's going to be contaminated to some degree from the get go. The key point is that the massive yeast population (>100bn cells for a 5 gallon batch) scavenge dissolved ...


6

Doing a full-wort boil (all 5 gallons) offers a few technical advantages over partial-wort boils. There are a number of reactions that depend on the concentration of wort. First, the wort-darkening reactions are more pronounced at a smaller volume meaning your wort will come out a little darker than you expect. Second and more importantly, the rate of hop ...


6

I used strips for years before I got a meter. They can work well, but I recommend only using the colorPhast strips, which are pretty expensive. The cheaper ones just aren't accurate I've found. I now use pH meter. Don't get a cheapo meter...you'll just be wasting your money. Your pH should be 5.2-5.4 measured at room temp (around 70F). I use lactic or ...


6

First of all, don't be so hard on yourself. Think of all the efficiencies made by brewing and drinking your own stuff. The beer in the store was driven there in a big, fossil fuel burning truck, with a whole lot of water used in the process. Home brewed beer comes in either re-used glass bottles, or re-purposed soda kegs, never in cans that end up in a ...


5

Yes, definitely. A good resource on water chemistry is sections 15.0 to 15.4 of Palmer's How to Brew: http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15.html Generally speaking: High bicarbonate (CO3) water has a higher alkalinity. Using water high in bicarbonates to make a pale beer such as Pilsner will yield a 'harsh' bitterness. This type of water tends to ...


5

I wouldn't bother, unless you have a specific reason. If you think the beer is too strong and needs to be watered down, go for it. If you are worried because you are a half gallon off, but the beer tastes fine, don't worry about it! I've often been off by a quart or two, and the beer still came out great. If you do decide to add water, be very careful. Make ...


5

You're right - you need minerals! Different minerals in the brewing water perform a number of roles througout the brewing process: mashing: during the mash, minerals are used to adjust the pH - around 5.2 is considered a comprimise between the pH ranges favored by alpha and beta amylase. Chalk (Calcium Carbonate) and Baking soda (Calcium Hydrogen ...


5

Cleaning: If you use PBW, one batch of PBW can be reused many many times. This may also be true of other cleaners, but I've only ever used PBW. Sanitizing: As with PBW, one batch of StarSan can be reused many times. The key with StarSan is to make the batch with the cleanest water possible and then keep it in a sealed container. Cooling: There are lots of ...


5

I'd brewed dozens of batches before finding out about chloramine and Campden tablets. My beer is better now that I treat my brewing water to remove chloramine, but has always been drinkable. I think the failure of your previous batch was due of something other than chloramine.


5

The core question is … Why? Different ions lead to different perceived properties in the finished beer; for one example: higher concentrations of chloride emphasize malt character, whereas higher concentrations of sulfate emphasize hop character and dryness. When? Both in the mash and in the sparge water, mostly based on the ratio in volume, with some ...


5

When racking from a primary fermenter to a secondary vessel, you will leave behind a non-trivial amount of "stuff" so the volume in the secondary will be less than the volume in the primary. If you start with five gallons in the fermenter you won't have five gallons left to bottle, but it isn't any more concentrated than when you started. If your OG and FG ...


4

The answer to your question is very much dependent on the water chemistry of the water you are using now. If you have alkaline water you will find that you'll have the most success with beers using roasted malts because the acidity in the malt will bring down the mash pH to the correct level (5.2-5.4). Lighter beers will be harder to brew due to your mash pH ...


4

Okay, well there are a few things to consider. How big is your pot? If you don't have the headroom to handle the inevitable foam, you will have a mess. Can you easily chill five gallons of wort without using a cold water additive? If you don't have a wort chiller, this can be a big issue. The amount of wort you boil, the specific gravity of that wort, ...


4

In a nutshell, distilled water is great for extract brewing since the extract has all the minerals in it from when it's made. In general, you want to have 50-100 ppm of Ca available for the yeast. It also aids the clarity of the beer. For hoppy beers, you can use CaSO4 for this. You can add it to the mash if you need to lower the mash pH, or just add it ...


4

Since you intend to build your water from scratch, I recommend you take a look at Martin Brungard's excellent (and free!) water spreadsheet at https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/ . Not only will it help you to figure out what minerals you need for each beer style, there's a great water tutorial section in it.


4

Fluoride isn't easily removed by boiling. Using an activated charcoal filter system is the most efficient way to remove it (Pur or Brita are common ones, I use the Brita). You have to distill the water to remove the fluoride with temperature-based methods. But I am not aware of any negative effects of fluoride on brewing other than if the concentration ...


4

In short, most early extract recipes work off the concentrated boil process as you have noticed. But if you have the ability to boil AND COOL 5 whole gallons then go for it. Keep in mind one of the main reasons often overlooked for the concentrated boil is to use very cold water or iced water for the other two gallons to get to pitching temps. You could ...


4

Your brew will definite taste salty with that quantity of minerals added. I would use a third of that amount. 150ppm calcium and 250ppm sulphates is really the upper limit of what you can comfortably use in the beer, and you will still taste a little salt up front, but often it goes with the style. Here are some guidelines from the HBT wiki, ...


4

The most important parameter in water is residual alkalinity. It's the thing that determines what kind of beer you can brew and what adjustments you need to make for beer styles that aren't suited to your untreated water. "How to brew" explains how to calculate it, how it is related to beer color and how to correct it.


4

If you add near boiling water to fermenting wort, then yes, you can definitely kill some of the yeast, at least, any yeast that come in contact with that near boiling water. If there was enough yeast in the fermenter, distributed in other parts of the beer, then a lot of it may still be alive. If you see signs of fermentation (bubbling airlock, krausen) it ...


4

AJ deLange calculated that 4.7mg/L (~18mg/gl) of potassium metabisulfite (4.0mg/L of sodium metabisulfite) is needed to reduce a "worst case" scenario of 3mg/L of chloramine. (PDF, via the Wayback Machine archive of AJ's site). I've been using this to add K-meta along with my brewing salts. That works out to 188mg for 10gl of brewing liquor. A Campden ...



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