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6

Warmer temperatures will allow the yeast to continue its work, cleaning up the beer. Colder temperatures will promote yeast flocculation which helps to clear the beer. It'd suggest leaving the beer in the fermentation temperature range for a week or two after the final gravity has been reached, and then moving it to the cooler basement to help it clear.


4

They sure have, at least in terms of the temperature/ABV% relationship. The table provided is for pure ethanol/water solutions so the freezing points provided will be slightly higher than for actual beer. Accounting for the effects of residual sugar, proteins and other things in solution seems incredibly complex; this is touched upon in some detail later in ...


4

I'm going to assume you're basically doing "batch sparging" (adding the sparge liquor in batches due to capacity), not that you're "step mashing" (using hot water infusions to move the whole mash through a set of different temperature "steps"). Once the enzymes are denatured, they are … denatured. :) They will not return or restart their ability to convert ...


4

Most of the heat is usually lost through the lid in coolers. Cooler lids are not well insulated. The bodies are. This is because they are meant to keep things cold not hot. Heat rises and a cooler lid isn't designed to actually handle it. Some coolers are better than others. I have used several and found wide differences. I found that if I covered the ...


3

Be patient. It will carb, it will just take longer. Wait another week or so, then start sampling to see if it's carbed yet.


3

It has been said that for every 10C of temperature increase the oxidation rate roughly doubles. So yes temperature does increase oxidation rate. In general increases in heat increase all chemical reactions.


3

I think you are over thinking and and mis-interpreting the point of the "theory of mashing" article. That table regarding mash temp and attenuation is only specific to the wort tested. It's meant as a demonstration of how increasing temps may make a less fermentable wort. Fermentability of a wort is based on much more than temperature of the mash. The ...


3

It would help in a couple ways if you gently stirred the wort with a sanitized spoon as it cools. First, it will make it cool faster. Second, you'll get homogenous wort so you'll get an accurate temp reading no matter where you check it.


2

If fermentation has finished and you're certain of that, the beer will benefit from getting it as cold as possible rather than leaving it warm. Cold crashing, as it's called, will help drop the yeast and leave you with a clearer beer. In addition, it will provide you with a crisper, cleaner flavor.


2

A little worried, perhaps, but regardless you should attempt to keep the yeast/beer itself in the yeast's ideal temperature range. If you have a temp controller, then look into getting some sort of "thermowell" to put the temp controller's sensor in the middle of the fermentor itself, but taping (and insulting) the probe against the side of the fermentor ...


2

The "malty" taste can come from burning the sugars in the beer. When you slowly pour in the LME, vigorously stir the boil to avoid pooling on the bottom of the kettle.


1

There is one correct place: The same place that you used last time. :) The critical part is that you take a reading at the same place as this will give you consistency in your process. There is one "bad" place: the bottom of the kettle. Depending on your equipment you may get a high reading because the thick bottom is retaining heat, or showing a very low ...


1

If not ruin it, it will make fairly bad beer. It is always better to wait til the wort reaches a good temp then to pitch the yeast at too high a temp. You can put the fermenter into a bathtub or other container and add cold water and ice to the water. Don't put ice directly into your wort. Ice is not sanitary and you risk contaminating your beer by doing ...


1

Since there is really no fermentation going on in secondary, temperature is of little concern. as log as you don't get too hot, not much else matters. In fact, there's seldom a need to do a secondary at all.


1

You wouldn't want a sudden drop in temperature, or too low (8C is way too low), the yeast might give up completely instead of helping the beer mature. 20C should be no problem, the yeast shouldn't be making any esters at this stage. It's also the preferred temperature for the early stage of bottle conditioning. This all assumes you're using a common ale ...


1

I think stirring is required even if you are running a watery mash with recirculation; you have to at least break up the clumps of dry grain before you can pump it. Heat doesn't seem to move easily through the mash anyways. Wort that is above the chiller will chill very, very slowly. I find that some wort will also stay hot on the bottom of my pot (on the ...


1

Idiot-proofing the fermentation temperatures has been a bit of a peeve of mine right now, as I use a family member's basement as a brewery and I have little control of the ambient room temperature. The DIY solution I am working on uses a $15 digital thermostat/controller with a sinkable probe from Ebay to switch on/off a typical brewing heat belt (a ...


1

I also use a water bath for controlling fermentation temps. I found a bluetooth weatherhawk temperature sensor that reports to a mobile app and it is waterproof. So I built an stc 1000 temp controller to selectively switch between an aquarium heater & small recirc pump on the hot side and a peltier liquid chiller on the cold side.


1

A high gravity beer (high ABV) can take more than a month to carbonate at 70 degrees and if you let it get too cold it may never get to where you want it


1

Just called Robinar, manufacturer of refractometer I have. Posed the temperature compensation question to them and the response is: when calibrating the tool (IE: putting distilled water on the glass) make sure that test/calibtratiuon water is the same temp as the product/material to be tested.



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