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10

It really depends on what you're after. Traditionally, dried bitter orange peel is added late in the boil for bitterness. Dried or fresh sweet orange peel can be added late in the boil for a bit of flavor, and fresh sweet orange peel can be added to the secondary for aroma. So, you need to think about and define what it is you want the orange peel to do ...


6

14% would be pretty high, even for high gravity yeasts, but 11% is definitely realistic. There are a few tricks to getting high ABV. You want really good aeration so that the yeast are healthy, often this means aerating when pitching and again the day after. You also may want to add sugar slowly instead of putting it all in at once. This is easy with ...


6

First, happy National Homebrew Day celebration day. I hope you have a LHBS or club that is participating in the Big Brew. Gravity is a measure of sugar in your wort, and the more fermentable sugars you give your yeast to munch on, the more that yeast will pee alcohol. To get gravity without booze, you provide yeast more of the stuff they can’t consume. ...


4

A good article from Brew Your Own. "Tastes Great! Less Alcohol!" Then there is the style guidelines which includes commercial examples. 2008 BJCP Style Guidelines Category 8 — English Pale Ale


4

Likely late in the game now, but you can also put oak chips on a sanitized cooking sheet at 200F or so and leave in the oven for 15 minutes or so. This will sanitize the chips, and subtly brings out some of the flavour, but not too much tannic or other astringent flavours. Essentially you are pasteurizing the oak chips by heating them to 138F (min), before ...


3

Sounds like you're experiencing hangover-like symptoms. Hangovers from homebrew can be caused by fusel alcohols. Fusels are generally considered to be an "off" flavor and in large amounts create a hot, solventy taste (think paint thinner, or bad vodka). You didn't mention anything about your fermentation, but fusel production is generally the result of high ...


2

@ Hokiesguy95: your beer was not a failure because of excess time in primary (three days by your count), that would have nothing to do with soapy, unpleasant flavors. It would take WAY longer than ten days to produce any sort of soapy flavors from yeast autolysis. The old advice of getting the beer out of primary as quickly as possible is antiquated and ...


2

Getting the Labels Off I'm only adding a little bit here. I only use OxyClean, like many others, but what I do is put the bottles standing up in a cooler, then fill them with hot tap water. Dump a bit of oxyclean in the cooler, and fill it with hot water. It holds the temp for quite a long while, after a couple of hours the labels are floating off, or they ...


2

Assuming spelt has the same properties as wheat, there's no need to gelatinize the spelt as a separate step. The gelatinization temperature of wheat is low enough that it will occur at normal mashing temperatures. You should mill the wheat in the normal way. If you're using a two-row mill like the Barley Crusher, you could set the gap slightly smaller than ...


2

You should definitely dilute the malt extract before adding to the carboy - this is to ensure that it is sanitary, that it mixes evenly in the carboy and to make it easier to handle. Many kits in fact require boiling the extract in ca. 2-3 times the amount of water to help reduce the viscosity of the liquid. Even if the kit says no boil, it's often just a ...


2

I recently did a saison using only Brettanomyces Claussenii, and it turned out very interesting. Despite many misconceptions, brett will not sour beer. I didn't even see much in the way of a pellicle as many claim to get when they ferment with Brett. White labs doesn't condense down the yeast when they package it, so it isn't much to look at in comparison ...


2

Both Denny Conn and mdma were correct to some extent. I am not able to pick who answered the question fully at this go of it. So I’ll answer with my own results and hope others experiment further to dial in the process. I planned on splitting a 5 gallon batch all along for comparison so I wouldn't feel it wasn't wasted if it didn't turn out. The design ...


2

I don't believe most wine makers make these decisions up front, at least not for juice that they have not worked with before. Instead, you taste the wine at packaging time and then adjust accordingly with glycerin for sweetness or acids for tartness. Commercial producers may blend finished wines, but ultimately it involves tasting throughout the whole ...


2

A hop tea may work. However, the bitterness extracted from hops at pH > 6 becomes progressively harsher with higher pH. Thus, to get a more rounded bitterness, you should not boil in plain water, which has a pH > 7. You could try boiling the hops in a little of the fermented beer, since this will have pH in the ball park of what you need. (Fermented beer is ...


2

For very high gravity beers, you can use White Labs Super High Gravity Yeast - WLP099. It has a stated alcohol tolerance of 25%. You can use just this yeast, or use the regular yeast that you want to use to produce the dominant flavor profile, and then pitch WLP099 when fermentation is 2/3 complete (ideally, from an active fermenting starter comprising the ...


1

Hardness is only one component of water. You need to look at the full analysis to see what's causing it in order to know what to do about it. Then, use a water spreadsheet (I recommend Bru'nwater https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/) to calculate how to correct for it. Your fears about water additions are unfounded. If done correctly, no off flavors ...


1

The general ideas of hop bitterness, flavor and aroma related to time in the boil to hold true. Continual hopping doesn't generally produce any different aromas or flavors in my experience. In fact when over done the beer can taste fairly grassy. I don't know of too many brewers that do this still. Its labor intensive and has a fairly low return for ...


1

I would suspect adding all that pulp only you'll get hazy beer from all the fruit tannins. And those tannins may lead to a weird astringency depending on the type of fruit. But to experiment, I'd add it in secondary. Adding it at boils end would certainly generate pectin haze. It might not hurt to run some sanitizer through the juicer first.


1

You can. In fact this is what Jack Keller recommends. It is a second (or third in your case) fermentation to keep clean. Make sure you taste it first. A growler will get you a 1/2 gallon. You can use a drilled rubber stopper to add an airlock.


1

Since you don't necessarily need the beer to be completely non-alcoholic, perhaps you could consider brewing an small (session) beer instead? Mashing at the higher end, perhaps with some flavourful caramel malts, wheat or rye for extra body and an small grain bill should give you a head start. I did some experiences with second (and third) runnings from ...


1

You cannot make a truly alcohol free beer. The best commercial brewers can do is get it down to about .5% ABV. At home, most report that about 1.5% ABV can be achieved with boiloff. However, it is reported to have a severely negative impact on flavor. Having tried this, I would advise you not to waste your time. The bitterness is concentrated, not ...


1

I've probably bought that same pack, and the fact they don't list the ingredients in proportion is annoying. I guess they figure its "trade secrets" or whatever. Making the assumption that this isn't your first partial mash beer, I would suggest that you partial-mash normally, using the same water and minerals (if any) that you KNOW make good beer. The ...


1

There's a list of yeasts with temperature ranges here - http://beerandwinejournal.com/high-temp-yeast/ It's mainly Belgian abbey/trappist/saison yeast straings, with Saison being the high-temp winner.


1

Im from Venezuela (80 ºF) so I´m familiar to those off flavor you mention. In my (really short humble) experience, when brewing regular beers, using S-03 and fermenting in a cool room (no a refrigerated one, just a dark corner) does the trick. Although when trying higher-gravity beers (OG 1.060) with S-03 sometimes we get some "Hot alcohol" flavors, like ...


1

Sasion yeast can handle the high temperatures. But it's a style unto itself. I wouldn't recommend trying to brew an IPA or a Stout with Sasion yeast. I know many home brewers have success using a swamp cooler to control temperature.


1

I have used the Pig for almostcask ale. It's okay. It goes flat within about 2 days, so I wouldn't let it sit around for much more than 48 hours. The restrictor plate could probably come out, and since there's no way to compress the container you probably need to keep the hand pump around to introduce a little pressure into the pig so the liquid can flow ...


1

I've had some excellent beer, such as Lost Abbey Judgement Day that used raisins or prunes in secondary, which give a very rich, caramel flavor that compliments big malty high alcohol and aged styles.



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