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8

In my experience it can differ between maltsters, but Weyermann offers both PDF and video instructions on opening their bags (the video is pretty awesome), which are fairly applicable to other brands of malt. ~edit~ There's also this video. ~another edit~ My own personal method for this, which I find works pretty much 100% of the time, with any bag: ...


6

I don't think it's a good idea, but might depend on product. You know why brown bottles are more popular than green or clear? Because light creates bad flavor and aroma in most beers. In my country it's known as skunks aroma. Strong UV lamp will do the same, only much faster. As far as I know, wine doesn't like light either. But I believe there might be some ...


6

"How safe would that beer be?" If it's steam coming from a commercial appliance (presumably a dish-washer or some other such food-grade device) it wouldn't be any less safe than eating off a dish that came through it. What you might see is a small carry-over of that plastic-y scent into your beer from residuals left after draining. Unsafe? No. ...


5

You'll get the best flavor if you use whole, and coarsely crack it before adding.


4

Here is a good test of what you are looking to do. http://brulosophy.com/2014/08/12/primary-only-vs-transfer-to-secondary-exbeeriment-results/ Here is the conclusion of the test: Once all the data was collected and I wasn’t worried about blowing through these kegs of beer, I started serving it to people stopping by. On a few occasions, with folks who ...


4

There's a few ways to get to a Berliner Weiße: Sour mash: introduce lactobacillus to the mash, hold around 120°F (and ideally anaerobically) for 2-3 days to sour. Boil and ferment normally and neutrally. Kettle sour: perform the mash, introduce lacto to the wort, hold at temp, boil and ferment. Lactic acid sour: introduce lactic acid either to the kettle ...


3

Ginger juice alone does not have enough sugar to be fermentable. However, ginger beer is a popular, slightly alcoholic beverage made from ginger root, sugar, water and citric acid. Take a look at this question and answer.


3

The microbes that are present in the juice (from the skins of the apple and on the press itself) will eventually replicate and start to metabolize the sugars in the juice. If, by "bad", you mean "poisonous or harmful to you", then the answer is that it will not be harmful or bad, except for the harmful effects of alcohol. The acids and alcohol created by ...


3

Corn sugar is a monosaccharide where cane sugar is a disaccharide. Both are entirely fermentable but the disaccharide must be cleaved first. If your yeast are stressed they'll have a easier time with the monosaccharide. Corn sugar monosaccharide is usually glucose. There is some evidence that glucose fermentations produce higher ester levels. All things ...


3

In short corn sugar is more similar to the sugars in the wort so it's easy for the yeast to consume both. Other sugars are harder or easier for the yeast to consume and come with their own issues. Typically corn sugar is preferred. As adjuct and priming sugar.


3

Hey experimenting is half the fun of brewing! If you keep good notes on recipes and final product you can really start to understand what works together and produce better and better beer. Without knowing what your grain bill I would say this looks a little aggressive. As a reference, let's say you were shooting for a 1.065 o.g. (6.5% ish) your current hop ...


3

I buy whole coriander and use a mortar and pestle to crack the shells before adding it to the boil. Whole coriander keeps longer and will give a fresher aroma than pre-ground. To grind it at home, a coffee grinder would probably be overkill. You only need to break the shells. If you don't have a mortar and pestle, you can use a meat tenderizing hammer (or ...


3

We did some fruit pale ales last year with dehydrated fruit. We have a dehydrator and dried the fruit at 165 to kill off baddies and sealed it up till use. We did pineapple, kiwis, strawberries and chili peppers, non had any infection, even 6 months after. So it's an idea. Also the strawberry tasted amazing!


2

In first place it's very hard to get a blood-red beer. The beers that are said to be red are actually ruby, copper or reddish brown in color. Just to make it clear because you are probably aware of that. My favorite malt for red color is Roasted Barley (in very small amounts - maximum 2% of your grist). Munich is probably one of the best too, and Vienna ...


2

If you want to experiment with the difference between "primary-only" and "primary-secondary", then rack half of your batch into a new fermentor, and bottle both halves at the same time.


2

You can do a partial-volume boil, diluting the boil volume with sanitary water. In fact, this is a great way to chill the batch. Your hop utilization in particular will be affected by a partial-volume boil. You'll probably only be able to boil 2 or 2.5gl in a 3gl pot. And in any case, watch out for the very likely, and very messy, boilover.


2

That depends on the question you want to answer. bottling the primary-only batch after a week but leaving bottles for the extra week to let the primary-secondary batch catch up and How does the beer taste if we bottle a week early? leaving the batch in primary for an extra week (assuming we weren't disturbing it by transferring a lot of it for ...


1

I have made ginger beer from regular old yeast before so there is nothing inherent about ginger that makes it unsuitable for yeast fermentation. Yeast technically speaking is a fungus not bacteria so how things that have anti bacterial qualities interact with fungi I'm not sure.


1

I was going to make this a comment, but it ended up pretty long and there wasn't space... I think there is often confusion here over just what "dead space" means. Most brew software assumes all liquid under the false bottom is not returned to the kettle, but that isn't always true depending on your equipment. In my particular setup, I need 1/2 gal of ...


1

Looks pretty reasonable, although as Ryan noted, 2 oz. Columbus at 60 minutes will be quite bitter. Personally, I find that boiling Columbus for more than 30 minutes results in a harsh bitterness that lingers far too long on my tongue. (I wake up tasting it the next day.) For that reason, I no longer use Columbus for bittering. I generally stick with Magnum ...


1

Also consider putting in a plastic zip lock or other and using a pastry roller. It's also good for cracking small specialty grains that are too small for the setting on your mill.


1

It is normal for the air lock to slow way down after a couple days. It may bubble only once every few minutes. (And a watched pot never boils!) However, you may also have a bad seal. You can use the soapy water trick - mix a drop of dish soap in a glass of water. Then dab the water around the edge of seal and look for bubbles.


1

I personally do not use bags for Leaf hop additions, as the filter on my kettle captures all the pieces of hops. Where as with pellets I find they escape from my kettle and make the beer bitty, so I tend to use them in a tight weave bags. May be split the hops into 2 bags so they have more space to circulate and stir the wort with the bag to get the wort ...


1

The technique may work, and in theory, provided good process handling, shouldn't pose any issues. Something to consider though is that grain contains on it many organisms, including lactobacillus and enterobacter. Without boiling neither of the organisms will be killed, and will also have been given time to grow in the wort during the mash. How well they ...


1

My biggest concern would be botulism. If I'm not mistaken, unboiled wort is a very fertile breeding ground for that stuff. Even if "crash cooled in a freezer" I'd worry that too much of that bad stuff would stick around.


1

All those answers above used to be the way to go. Since then, Best Malz has introduced Red X malt. It gives you the reddest color I've ever seen, especially if you use it as 100% of your grist.


1

I have done this in the past, it was with a low temp lager yeast. The fermenting process remains sterile if you sterilise properly to start with, so if you siphon the wort off the yeast with sterile equipment and the add fresh wort at the right temperature to that same yeast then there should be no need to remove the yeast and resanitise the fermenter. Also ...


1

I didn't tried this on a beer bottle (i might tonight), but generally when i want to peel a sticker off, i just heat the sticker with a hair dryer. Then it just peels off. EDIT: I tried this a few days ago, it did not work.



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