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11

If you don't mash the oats, you're simply adding starch to your wort. That starch can serve as food for bacteria and encourage an infection in your beer. Bottom line...don't steep oats. Mash them with a diastatic malt.


8

You may notice your malt extract say something like "non-diastatic, unhopped, pure malt extract", or something similar. Diastatic power is the ability of a malt to convert starch to sugar. In an extract, you don't need it because it's already been converted for you. However, to get starch to turn into fermentable sugar, a diastatic malt is required. The ...


5

Nope. Flaked barley needs to be mashed. You'll get nothing but starch from it in your beer. Not only do you need a higher temp, you need some base malt in there an you need to do a partial/mini mash at least.


5

Some specialty grains (e.g. dextrin/cara-pils) need to be mashed. These need to be mashed, because they require a chemical reaction to take place to be useful. Some (e.g. crystal) need only to be steeped, but can also be put in the mash. These do not need a chemical reaction to take place to be useful, they just need to have the chemicals in them extracted ...


4

Firstly, I think your conversion to extract is off. You'll need 8.25 lbs of dry or 9.8 lbs of liquid. (See below) You can get amber, wheat and Munich malt extracts. This leaves you with 3.75 lbs of steeping grains - a much more manageable amount. Some wheat malts are a half-and-half mix of wheat and 2-row malts, so be sure to adjust your amounts ...


4

I don't know if there's a "proper" way to do it, but I've always used a grain bag with good results up until my most recent batch. Time and temperature vary based on the grains being used and desired flavor profile, among other variables. For my most recent batch I steeped 2 pounds of specialty grains in 3 quarts of water in a separate pot, drained this ...


4

The problem in my opinion is the heavy usage of Roasted Barley with the use of dark DME. The dark DME has roasted malts in it already. While it is typical for a Dry stout to use up to 1# of Roasted Barley, in this recipe you've added more than that because the DME brought some to the party. When using colored malts, I tend to go easy on the specialty ...


4

You may get some oxidation of the "specialty" wort letting it sit like that. You aren't really saving any time though. Start your steep in cold water while you heat it up. By the time its at 160F you are generally good to pull the grains out and keep on heating to boiling. I know most instructions when I started extract and grain brewing says to steep in ...


4

Both will work, in the sense that you will get beer at the end, but they will have different results. The 160F steep for a few minutes will not extract much sugars from the base malt, and those that are extracted will be dextrins, non-fermentable sugars that give body, and also starches which will give the beer a haze. Combined with the use of extract ...


3

If it's the head retention qualities of the flaked barley you are after, you could add 200g/0.45lb of carapils per 19l/5 gal. It will add head retention, and hardly adds any color, and such a small amount will not affect mouthfeel. I usually brew my stouts with an Irish liquid yeast, but I've also used US-05 and then they come out really dry! If you use ...


3

I made an oatmeal porter which came out really, really nicely. The mouthfeel was smooth and silky but not overdone. The only downside was that it had next to zero head retention. To get the "smooth" palate, you need to mash the oatmeal with your grains, but you really do not want to overdo the oats. I used 100g oats in a 15l batch (about 1/3 pound of oats ...


3

I used to do this. Can't say that it really hurt or helped. I eventually started to just put the bag in an empty pot and started my boil in the main pot. Then I'd add whatever came out of the bag into the boil later when I got around to it after the boil had gotten started. And unless there is base malt in the bag with your specialty grains its not a mash ...


3

So I thought I'd toss in my ideas... First, the recipe, for those who didn't want to Google it: 6.00 lb Dark Dry Extract   (17.5 SRM)        Dry Extract      85.71 % 1.00 lb Roasted Barley     (300.0 SRM)      Grain              14.29 % 2.00 oz Ultra Hops           [4.20 %]          (45 min)         22.1 IBU 3.00 tbsp Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Boil 45.0 ...


3

So, from a different perspective, steeping grains is just the same thing as mashing, you're just using a bag to remove the grains rather than draining the water from the grain bed. I'm also not sure that there is a "proper" way, but just like a mash the temperature and amount of water you have mixed in with your grain makes a significant difference in what ...


3

Keep it proportional. I haven't discovered a perfect ratio for pounds of steeping grains to steeping water volume, but I have learned to be wary of using more than a few pounds in just a couple gallon steep. Previously, I used a grain bag with 2-5 lbs of specialty grains, depending on the recipe, in a 8 qt steep. Recently, though, I've started adding the ...


3

Cold steeping is supposed to give you a smoother taste from dark and specialty grains that can impart ashy, acrid flavors when steeped in hot water. Cold steeping means actually steeping your grain at room temperature (not in ice water), and steeping it for 6-12 hours. The process is very similar to cold steeping coffee (and it's also done for similar ...


3

Roast the nibs to bring out their flavor then use them in the secondary. Roast like you would coffee or in a heavy skillet over medium heat until fragrant and flavorful.


3

Short Answer Steeping CaraPils is fine. The Reasoning One of the goals of mashing is conversion, which breaks down starches present in grain to sugars that yeast can eat. Some malts are converted in the malting process making it unnecessary to mash for conversion. The HomebrewTalk wiki lists "mash req'd" column on their malts chart indicating which malts ...


3

I disagree with Denny's assessment. Compare the theoretical results of not crushing them to grinding them into a powder. The the first case you'll get little flavor/color; in the second you get maximum flavor/color. So the crush does indeed have an important impact. The key is to do it the same way every time for consistency brew to brew. That way an ...


3

You're right that flaked barley normally has to be mashed to extract the potential yield. However, the main contribution of the flaked barley isn't so much the sugar potential, but beta glucans and proteins. The beta glucans contribute to the thicker mouthfeel, and the proteins to the foam (head). While you may get a little starch in the beer from steeping ...


3

(Yes, it's semantics: the words have different meanings. :) Mashing is the enzymatic conversion of starch to sugar, using alpha- and beta-amylaze naturally present in grain at the specific temperatures to activate them (~150°F). Steeping is using hot water to extract flavor and color compounds from grain.


2

For truly steeping some specialty grains for flavor and color 30 minutes is generally a good rule of thumb, independent of weight. But you need to ensure good water to grain contact. So putting the 5lbs in 2 or 3 grain bags with plenty of room for expansion is the key here. But if you are infact using some base malts then you are mashing and not ...


2

the time to steep grain is typically not determined by weight. if the volume of grain being steeped is too large to be efficient, break it up into smaller amounts and steep them seperately. for my system 'too much' is about 5lbs or anything that increases the volume in my pot by 1/4. typically 20-30 minutes is fine for steeping grain as a part of a partial ...


2

I have found that using them just like a dry hop works well. Throw them in to secondary and you should be able to rack your beer out without picking up any nibs. *(I have heard of people calling it dry nibbing)


2

So I think the converted recipe would look like this. I ended up getting the ppg's from a bunch of different places, so I'm not positive they are right. Anyone see any problems? Amber: 1.5 * 32 * .7 / 37 = .91 Wheat: .5 * 38 *.7 / 37 = .36 Munich: 2 * 32 * .7 / 37 = 1.2 Pale: 14 * 37 * .7 / 37 = 9.8 Recipe Estimated Stats (at 70% brewhouse efficiency) ...


2

In general, yes. In this month's issue of BYO (Vol. 16 No. 2) Bob Hansen, Manager of Technical Services at Briess Malt, warns: "... some American malt marketed as caramel, or crystal, malts are actually produced on a kiln and are only partially converted. These can be identified by cracking the kernels. If mealy starch is discovered in many of the ...


2

In addition, you should steep grains in about the same amount of water you'd use if you were mashing them in order to avoid too high a pH and the risk of tannin extraction. Grains will naturally reduce the pH of the water, but if you use too much water there won't be enough grain to get the pH down into the proper range. Stay in the 1.5-2 qt./lb. range to ...


2

When you steep your grains the main goal is to extract mainly color and flavor from the grain, a bonus of the process is you will get some starch conversion to sugar. In order to extract the color and flavor the grain does need to be crushed in the same manor as an all grain mash. I believe that due to the relatively small amount of specialty grains ...


2

Of course it can, its the same thing as using a free floating muslin bag. I once brewed at a "Brew on Premise" place and they used larger stainless steel sleeves to dunk in and out of the heating wort. As long as you get good flow in and around the grain, then it should work fine.


2

I don't think it would be a problem, just transfer it to your clean & sanitized fermenting bucket and put the lid and air lock on. the next day transfer back to the boiling pot. the only real down side I could see is it will take longer to bring to a boil.



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