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24

Sparge means "sprinkle". The purpose of sparging is to rinse all the sugars out of the mash. In concept, that's really all you are doing - rinsing your grain bed. It also halts enzymatic activity because alpha and beta amylase become denatured around 170° F. The benefit is if you are really good at mashing you know exactly when to stop so your malt ...


10

I am a batch sparger and I love it. To address your specific questions. You do not need to stir up the grain prior to vorlauf. Just start drawing liquid out the bottom until it seems to run pretty clear. (And clear means just the large chucks). After that run all the liquid out of the tun. I add more water and stir it up. The stirring is vital at this ...


5

Get the right crush This is the single most important thing to prevent a stuck sparge. Read the HomebrewTalk's wiki page on evaluating the crush. An ideal milling breaks the internal bits of grain into a coarse powder while leaving the bulk of the husks intact. It is the husks that do the most to set up a good filter. full size Use a good manifold ...


5

I've done all of the following in extract + grains brewing with 1 - 4 lbs of grain and I can honestly say I've never noticed a difference in the final product: Remove grain bag from brew kettle, place in bowl, pour hot water over it, press it with spoon, add liquid back to kettle. Remove grain bag from kettle, hold above kettle while spraying with hose. ...


5

In the close to 5 years I've been brewing I have only "Mashed Out" maybe twice. Also now that I'm brewing at a commercial level and have for a few breweries, none of them mash out either. Recirculate and start your sparge.


5

One of the quickest solution I have used in a pinch is to blow air back up my exit tube from the mash tun. This tends to dislodge some of the spent grains collected in or on the sparge manifold (regardless of the type you are using). Then a quick stir and recirculate and often I am back in business. The next step after blow back is to thin the mash a bit ...


4

In short: Yes, no problem, go for it, relax, don't worry. Like many all-grain brewers, I used a cooler for a mash tun making it difficult to raise the temperature to mash out. I still made good beers. So why would you want to do a mash out? This step achieves two things. First, it halts enzyme activity. If you are really, really good at mashing you ...


4

Dozens of home brewers I have seen start heating before sparge is complete. No home brewers I have seen (out of dozens) attain a boil before sparge is complete. Could get higher caramelization (could be good or bad) because your early runnings are going to be higher in sugar, and you've got a big flame under them. Can save some time in your brew day. Can ...


4

It's totally fine. The ideal situation would be to have it come to a boil just as you stop sparging and close the valves. I'd experiment with collecting say a gallon and a half first, then fire up the kettle. Next time adjust the "kick-off" volume and start the fire then adjusting to get to a boil just as the sparge ends. The concern with boiling to ...


4

If your pre-boil gravity is low you can goose it with some DME or whatever fermentable sugar you prefer. As to the issues with beersmith, its hard really to know without the recipe so when you have that throw it up and we can examine it more.


4

I just let it boil down for about 1 - 2 hours before I began my hop additions. [...] but what is the normal method for correcting an under-shot pre-boil gravity? Boiling for 1.5-2 hours is quite common. It sounds like the advice you got from Beersmith was correct. Your pre-boil volume is usually about 1.2-1.5 times your expected volume into the ...


4

Clarity of wort has no bearing on the clarity of the finished beer. Beer clarity is much more dependent on things like proper pH and mash conversion an d a large amount of flour should have no effect. My crush is very fine with a large amount of flour and my efficiency ranges from 80-85%. Based on that, it's difficult to believe your wort loss is solely ...


3

Not really. Its best to focus your energy on fixing your process and brew again. Fixing a single beer is usually not effectively possible. Giving up one batch and fixing the process "fixes" all your future batches.


3

My previous brewing attempt was my first switch to all-grain brewing, so I was right in your shoes. It turned out great, and was a lot of fun. I made my cooler out of supplies from Home Depot using this video: How to make a Mash Tun from a cooler Then I watched this video: Easy All Grain Brewing - Batch Sparge Method Then I compiled these instructions for ...


3

I manually fly sparge. It consumes my attention, but shows that you do not need a sparge arm. My second-next equipment project will be a sparge arm (after a whirlpool chiller). Does a sparge arm improve lautering? Yes. If there were a quicker method that offered similar results the pro brewing community would have found it. How fancy? Not very. My plan ...


3

Just treat it like any other mash tun. Before you pull that thing out of the kettle start drawing off wort through the valve at the base (at least it looks like a valve in the picture). Collect it in a pitcher that you can easily pour from. Then slowly pour in back in at the top of the cylinder. Do this repeatedly until you think the wort looks clear ...


3

A good crush should keep the grain husks intact, since they will then filter out the flour and provide an efficient lauter. I also crush reasonably finely, which does produce some flour, but as long as the husks are intact you're good. I have a 3 roller mill - the sales pitch was that it doesn't pulverize the husks as much as a 2 roller. I've not used a 2 ...


2

When I did partial-mash batches, I usually placed the bag of grain in a mesh strainer above my brew pot and poured my sparge water over the bag. It helps to find a strainer wide enough so that it's handles rest on the rim of your pot, otherwise you'll need a brave friend to hold it while you pour your sparge water.


2

Fly sparging is not necessarily more efficient than batch sparging. Grain bed channeling is not an issue in batch sparging. Crush is always the first place to look in efficiency issues. My mantra is "Crush til you're scared!". I average 85% efficiency. I never do a protein rest. I never do more than a single batch sparge. 99.9% of the time I do a ...


2

I brew a sweet potato beer and I assume 1qt/lb of sweet potato. I also adjust the thickness by eye after that. The water to grist/veg ratio isn't really all that critical. Nor is it all that different if you have to adjust the water a little up pr down by 10-15%. The key is to have enough water in there that it doesn't become a gooped up mess. The mash ...


2

I agree with brewchez's comment about fixing the process, and that should be done to avoid recurrence of the problem. For me, I will go back to batch sparging. However, before dumping 10 gallons of tea-beer, I wanted to find out if I could remove some of the astringency. And it seems you can. I used gelatin to clear the beer in one of the kegs, and left the ...


2

Mashout is useful at the homebrew level if your wort is going to be sitting in the kettle for a long time prior to boiling and you want to lock in the mash profile. The other thing Mashout can help with is boosting poor efficiency a little bit as the warmer temp improves the viscosity of the wort a bit. Aside from those two areas, I don't routinely mashout ...


2

There's definitely a thermal shock issue, and you shouldn't place a hydrometer into any hot liquid … but I don't think that's what you're getting at. I, too, imagine the hydrometer temperature correction factors will break down after some point, but I can't respond to where that point is; I'd not go past 90°F. Before I got a refractometer, I would have a ...


2

I've heard one pound of rice hulls per 4 pounds of huskless grain. It really doesn't seem to require much (by weight), since the hulls have such low density. I probably wouldn't have added it to the oatmeal stout, but I suppose it's better safe than sorry.


2

Phosphoric acid itself is consumable, but to make it food safe, processing and packaging have to be done in a food safe manner. I use lactic acid 88% to acidify my mash and sparge water. Your LHBS probably carries this. Only a few milliliters are required, so a small plastic syringe or pipette is great for getting an appropriate dose. As well as using acid ...


2

It sounds like it's the crush. Get some feeler gauges and measure the distance. Typical distance is 0.038 to 0.042 inches.


1

The sugars left behind in a batch sparging scenario are generally the same as in a fly sparge set up. The only difference is that in batch sparging there is no water left in the tun. In fly sparging the tun is filled with water. But the net effect on efficiency is the same. If you were to go and fill the batch sparged tun up again, as if to do a third ...


1

Ideally, your flow rate into your mash tun would be at or less than your flow rate through the mash and out into your kettle. In this case, liquid shouldn't be collecting in your mash tun, and when you hit 1.010 SG in your kettle you can simply stop adding sparge water. The slight "in flight" load still making it's way through the mash at that point ...


1

The issue with the hydrometer is the weights inside of it. The weights will heat at a different rate than the glass and result in pressure against the glass. I lost my first hydrometer by rinsing it with water that was too cold. The suddenly cold glass shrank just enough to press against the warmer weight inside and the glass cracked. Even if I were to ...


1

While equalizing the 2 runoffs does increase your efficiency slightly, if they're within even a gal. of each other it's close enough. Also, as you learn, you can use the empirical method. Mash with whatever liquor/grist ratio you like. After you drain the mash, measure how much you have in your kettle. Subtract that from the amount you want to boil. The ...



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