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7

A good starting point for fruit additions in 1lb/gl. Strawberries are pretty subtle, though. I added 7.5lb to 5gl of blonde this summer, and the flavor was easily noticable without being overpowering.


6

It is difficult to impossible to get much flavor out of watermelon due to its water content. There just isn't a of of flavor there to start with, and any sugars in the watermelon will be consumed by the yeast.


5

Like above, I've found corney kegs to be a great sealed aging container. Couple notes. I wouldn't allow any pressure in any glass carboy. Below is box from 6gal Italian glass carboy. ! PSI is pounds per square inch. Conditioning and secondary can easily make 2 bars, about 27psi. Because of the surface area a carboy would fail at a fraction of that. Plastic ...


4

Here is a good test of what you are looking to do. http://brulosophy.com/2014/08/12/primary-only-vs-transfer-to-secondary-exbeeriment-results/ Here is the conclusion of the test: Once all the data was collected and I wasn’t worried about blowing through these kegs of beer, I started serving it to people stopping by. On a few occasions, with folks who ...


4

Give it some time. I had a stout take about a month before there was a decent head.


3

Seeing how its puree >90% of it will be accessible to the yeast. Whether it all can be fermentable is a different question due to yeast health and the types of sugar (mostly fructose likely) in the fruit/puree. As for the change in gravity its not going to be significant. 1 lb of table sugar in one gallon would be ~1.046SG 190grams is about 42% of a pound. ...


3

For the primary go with 5 gallons so you have plenty of headspace for any foaming. For the secondary, i'l split between the 3 gallon carboy and get a 1 gallon jug for the remainder. This way you can keep the headspace to a minimum, and you have extra same batch cider in hand if you need to top off for any reason. Which you will because Apple drops a TON of ...


3

Yes. It's at a stable gravity that's a reasonable terminal gravity for that style (1.006 is a little dry for a bitter, but just a little). The krausen has fallen back into the beer, which is why there's just "a little froth" and "a small head". It's bottling time.


3

Yeast with a high floculation rate will do this, they usually break off the bottom and float up from trapped c02. Beer looks really clear, good job. When you rack to secondary, go ahead and let the floaters suck into the secondary, usually this is enough to break them up and let them settle. If you don't mind the extra loss you can leave them behind. ...


2

Are we talking about lack of carbonation or a missing head here? You say it's flat which would mean there is no CO2 but it seems like there is. A beer doesn't taste flat without a head if it has CO2 in it. If your beer doesn't carbonate there is either not enough yeast and/or not enough sugar. What you ca do: turn the bottles up-side-down, maybe your yeast ...


2

I made a Strawberry Saison last Summer and the 1lb/per gallon was a nice subtle flavor, but I think I may raise the to 1.5 pounds next time. Also, I used frozen strawberries which I gently crushed. Let them thaw a bit at the bottom of the secondary and then racked on top of them. The beer was able to use all of the fruit this way.


2

There are many causes of haze in beer. Here you're assuming that the haze is from the yeast, but it may be chill haze, which takes a long time to settle out, if at all. Take a sample of the beer and warm it to room temperature. If the haze disappears then you know it was chill haze.


2

Personally I'd bottle for 2 or 3 weeks. As I like it to develop and carbonate nicely in the bottle. I would usually not leave my brews sitting in the primary so long as it rests on a lot of lees. The yeast it is sitting on will start to break down and can potentially release off flavours. Once I hit my target gravity I try to get the beer/wine into the ...


2

If you want to experiment with the difference between "primary-only" and "primary-secondary", then rack half of your batch into a new fermentor, and bottle both halves at the same time.


2

1) Go with a 5 gallon primary, this is the one you want ample head space in, secondary filling to the neck minimizes O2 exposure. O2 exposure is only an issue once you have alcohol in the cider, there are several ways to minimize this in secondary. 2) I wouldn't dilute with water, it will only lower the OG reducing the final ABV


2

For the bourbon flavor, the effect is rapid. However, for the wood, you'll want to keep that in for a few weeks. However, bourbon will likely mask much of the oak that you will extract.


2

I've noticed over time that you want use lots and lots of fruit (if you think you used enough, add more), supplement with extract, puree the flesh (no rinds or skins) or use juice if possible, boiling kills some flavors, and don't use clarifying agents. You can probably substitute some of your wheat extract with light LME or DME. Depends on your recipe. Ask ...


2

That depends on the question you want to answer. bottling the primary-only batch after a week but leaving bottles for the extra week to let the primary-secondary batch catch up and How does the beer taste if we bottle a week early? leaving the batch in primary for an extra week (assuming we weren't disturbing it by transferring a lot of it for ...


2

That's a very quick response - was there still a lot of yeast in suspension? Keep that fermention covered any way you can - fruit flies are going to lose their minds over this stuff. I suggest a blowoff tube going into some sanitizer.


2

That would be fine as long as the fermenter can handle some pressure. It might even improve your beer. But if you're traveling a relief valve is pretty much required (like a cornelius keg). Beer that appears to not be 'active' is still generating some CO2 - before the yeast are completely dead (which will take several months) they consume stored glycogen, ...


2

The cider / vinegar smell is normal, it is acetaldehyde and is a normal byproduct of fermentation. But it's a temporary byproduct, the yeast will consume it to recover NAD+ from NADH after all oxygen has been gone for a while. If I recall correctly, even acetobacter needs oxygen to actually make vinegar. So the problem is apparently oxygen more than ...


1

wild stab in the dark here but I think it makes sense. I have several jars of varying chars of oak in different whiskeys and wines. I plan on pulling them out, soaking them in another jar of like beer to be brewed, and then adding to full batch. My hope is this would simulate a second (brewers) use barrel and at the very least less aggressive and could work ...


1

I have not tasted a "ten tidy" yet, but based on my experience with wine and oak chips, I would say that one week is enough to get some wood taste. After 2 weeks, I felt the oak taste was too strong for a wine. So according to that experience, I would say that after a week take a small sample to taste. Then decide if you'd like to leave it more time or ...


1

I would try to add saaz at the end of boiling (0 min) and dry hopping with more saaz 2 days before bottling. You could check hops characterists at hopunion: https://www.hopunion.com/saaz/


1

The calculators are someone's idea of what the style should be. Each brewery will do something different depending on tradition, marketing, and what they think their customers like. You are your only customer. What do you like? High carbonation, or low carbonation? I like low carbonation. I never do more than 2 volumes of CO2. For a 19L batch at room ...


1

I routinely use 150g of sucrose for 18-19 liter batches, and rarely have over carbonation. And then, only if I keep the beer in a warm place for a long time. No exploded bottles yet. That being said, you should give the yeast plenty of time to flocculate before bottling, and don't open them when warm.


1

You should not rack it to secondary. You can improve clarity with: simply waiting longer in primary for more particulate matter to settle cold-crashing to promote yeast settling clarifying agents like Irish moss, gelatin, clarityferm careful racking


1

The reason the carboy is nice, is the top is restricted, like an inverted funnel. That means that there is less and less space, as you fill towards the top, for oxygen to hang out and oxidize your beer.


1

Other than being able to see your beer, as you pointed out, there isn't any benefit and like you noted, the drawback of cleaning a second container. I've brewed gallons and gallons in plastic buckets and don't really see the benefit of transfer to a secondary either. You're exposing your beer not only to nasties, but more oxygen too. I nice cold crash ...


1

Wait longer, they'll wake up some day. For comparison, my most recent brett beer got brett b in the primary, fermented out to 1.010 (typical for the other yeast) and then sat for two month doing nothing before the gravity dropped & flavors appeared. Ended up at 1.005. A bit of pellicle formed later, but I don't think pellicle formation tells you too ...



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