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6

It is difficult to impossible to get much flavor out of watermelon due to its water content. There just isn't a of of flavor there to start with, and any sugars in the watermelon will be consumed by the yeast.


5

Like above, I've found corney kegs to be a great sealed aging container. Couple notes. I wouldn't allow any pressure in any glass carboy. Below is box from 6gal Italian glass carboy. ! PSI is pounds per square inch. Conditioning and secondary can easily make 2 bars, about 27psi. Because of the surface area a carboy would fail at a fraction of that. Plastic ...


4

Here is a good test of what you are looking to do. http://brulosophy.com/2014/08/12/primary-only-vs-transfer-to-secondary-exbeeriment-results/ Here is the conclusion of the test: Once all the data was collected and I wasn’t worried about blowing through these kegs of beer, I started serving it to people stopping by. On a few occasions, with folks who ...


4

Yeast with a high floculation rate will do this, they usually break off the bottom and float up from trapped c02. Beer looks really clear, good job. When you rack to secondary, go ahead and let the floaters suck into the secondary, usually this is enough to break them up and let them settle. If you don't mind the extra loss you can leave them behind. ...


4

Oxygen in beer has to do with shelf life. A small amount of headspace is not going to effect the beer short term. I have secondary fermented plenty of 5 gallon batches in a 6.5 gallon fermenter with great results. I personally wouldn't go through the trouble of a bag liner especially if you are going to drink the beer within a couple months.


4

You may be interested in Wood Toxicity and Allergen Chart presented at The Wood Database. With very important warning: Just because any given wood is not listed on the chart, does not mean that it is completely safe to use. It simply means that adverse reactions have not been reported as of yet. That said, there is over 200 kinds of wood in this one ...


3

Seeing how its puree >90% of it will be accessible to the yeast. Whether it all can be fermentable is a different question due to yeast health and the types of sugar (mostly fructose likely) in the fruit/puree. As for the change in gravity its not going to be significant. 1 lb of table sugar in one gallon would be ~1.046SG 190grams is about 42% of a pound. ...


3

The cider / vinegar smell is normal, it is acetaldehyde and is a normal byproduct of fermentation. But it's a temporary byproduct, the yeast will consume it to recover NAD+ from NADH after all oxygen has been gone for a while. If I recall correctly, even acetobacter needs oxygen to actually make vinegar. So the problem is apparently oxygen more than ...


3

Some widely respected people advise against it, like: Racking to prevent autolysis is not necessary Whilst it might be true, in some cases, it is not true in case of strong stuff, stuff that will stay in fermenter long time. See wine resources - for yeast wine with nutrient is not so different than wort. And even if this particular part, this one ...


3

For the primary go with 5 gallons so you have plenty of headspace for any foaming. For the secondary, i'l split between the 3 gallon carboy and get a 1 gallon jug for the remainder. This way you can keep the headspace to a minimum, and you have extra same batch cider in hand if you need to top off for any reason. Which you will because Apple drops a TON of ...


2

If you want to experiment with the difference between "primary-only" and "primary-secondary", then rack half of your batch into a new fermentor, and bottle both halves at the same time.


2

Campden tablets are usually Potassium Metabisulfite .It works by depriving organisms of oxygen, kinda like how halon puts a fire out. For yeast it means it doesn't have what it needs so it's waiting, doesn't kill it. I've made cider from juice that used Potassium Metabisulfide as a preservative, fermination would only start once the preservative was ...


2

The temperature could be a factor, make sure your bottles are stored at a correct temperature (see the yeast package for ideal temperature). It is possible that the SO2 did not evaporate as much as expected? There are kits that you can buy to measure sulfites in wine : Titrets It is also possible that the yeast in the bottles did not get enough oxygen to ...


2

I've noticed over time that you want use lots and lots of fruit (if you think you used enough, add more), supplement with extract, puree the flesh (no rinds or skins) or use juice if possible, boiling kills some flavors, and don't use clarifying agents. You can probably substitute some of your wheat extract with light LME or DME. Depends on your recipe. Ask ...


2

That depends on the question you want to answer. bottling the primary-only batch after a week but leaving bottles for the extra week to let the primary-secondary batch catch up and How does the beer taste if we bottle a week early? leaving the batch in primary for an extra week (assuming we weren't disturbing it by transferring a lot of it for ...


2

That's a very quick response - was there still a lot of yeast in suspension? Keep that fermention covered any way you can - fruit flies are going to lose their minds over this stuff. I suggest a blowoff tube going into some sanitizer.


2

1) Go with a 5 gallon primary, this is the one you want ample head space in, secondary filling to the neck minimizes O2 exposure. O2 exposure is only an issue once you have alcohol in the cider, there are several ways to minimize this in secondary. 2) I wouldn't dilute with water, it will only lower the OG reducing the final ABV


2

That would be fine as long as the fermenter can handle some pressure. It might even improve your beer. But if you're traveling a relief valve is pretty much required (like a cornelius keg). Beer that appears to not be 'active' is still generating some CO2 - before the yeast are completely dead (which will take several months) they consume stored glycogen, ...


2

For the bourbon flavor, the effect is rapid. However, for the wood, you'll want to keep that in for a few weeks. However, bourbon will likely mask much of the oak that you will extract.


2

From the picture it looks like normal yeast clumps to me. Sometimes you get dried krausen falling back in the beer and it doesn't really dissolve and settle out. Its hard to say looking at an internet picture, but that's what it looks like to me.


2

If the starter was on the stir plate it is aerated already. You will however, be introducing oxidized wort from the starter into the beer. This could be an issue for flavor later on, but it being a big beer with rich flavors it might not be noticeable.


2

I would stick to the wood chips that are available from your homebrew supplier. There is a large selection available. One may be temped to cut up an old liquor barrel or cubing a known safe species of wood. But care needs to be taken not to contaminate the wood with the cutting tool, saws have coatings and oils etc. The chips made for brewing have been ...


2

Over the weekend I kept thinking about this and I have done a bit more digging and found this article from bear-flavored.com, in which they speak about brewing with 4 different woods and discovered this company Black Swan Cooperage who make barrels and aging additions out of 8 different woods listed below: Cherry - Butter brickle, ripe cherry, fresh grass, ...


1

Or, use a carboy as stated in the original post. Anytime I have beer sitting for more than 2-3 wks, I use a glass carboy. buckets are for primary and quick turn arounds. sealing in a bag will restrict CO2 off-gassing. Airlocks are designed to let air out and keep air out. the bag will restrict one side of this equation.


1

Cleared beer in a carboy always look darker than when it was fermenting. Beer that has suspended particles in it, namely yeast, will reflect more light back at you making it seem lighter in color than it is. After you racked to secondary this stuff continued to settle out. Not to mention that primary fermentation coats the walls of a fermenter in a bit of ...


1

Clean your primary, and put everything back in that carboy for secondary. At the risk of transfer exposure to O2, but can be done easily to avoid it. Or put an airlock on the 2 liter bottle and let it ferment separate from the rest. This would minimize transfer O2 exposure. Or leave them sealed in a 2 liter soda bottle, this will naturally carbonate them. ...


1

When you pitch a mixed blend each microbe acts on different sugars and other chemicals at different times as the environment in the wort changes to each microbes optimum environment. If you only pitch saccharomyces first then it can potentially create an environment that other microbes like Lacto and Brett can't survive in. For example Lacto doesn't work ...


1

wild stab in the dark here but I think it makes sense. I have several jars of varying chars of oak in different whiskeys and wines. I plan on pulling them out, soaking them in another jar of like beer to be brewed, and then adding to full batch. My hope is this would simulate a second (brewers) use barrel and at the very least less aggressive and could work ...


1

I have not tasted a "ten tidy" yet, but based on my experience with wine and oak chips, I would say that one week is enough to get some wood taste. After 2 weeks, I felt the oak taste was too strong for a wine. So according to that experience, I would say that after a week take a small sample to taste. Then decide if you'd like to leave it more time or ...


1

I would try to add saaz at the end of boiling (0 min) and dry hopping with more saaz 2 days before bottling. You could check hops characterists at hopunion: https://www.hopunion.com/saaz/



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