Hot answers tagged

7

I can understand your confusion - with potential, current, resistance and power all being defined in terms of each other, it's tricky to know where to start! An electric element is a resistive load, with constant resistance. Consequently, the power rating is given relative to the voltage across the element. Since we know the power and the voltage, we can ...


4

A friend in my brew club does this exact thing in his electric set up and has never had any issues. 100's of gallons of beer brewed, and no hiccups. Though, when dealing with high adjunct mashes, I would be extra careful and take whatever preventative measures you can (i.e. addition of rice hulls, etc.)


4

The original Brutus build is not electric, but natural gas, so that may in fact be a good place to start, especially for seeing how the flame control works (temp controller + pilot and valve.) The write-ups are very good and many have successfully built clones. A new spring is needed on the honeywell valves to convert from natural gas to propane - this blog ...


3

I use a pump to recirculate through a hose braid. A Bazooka is more open than that so it shouldn't be a problem.


3

For calculating heating element amp draw (as well as other useful things like water heating time), check out the Javascript calculator on my website. Now for your questions three: 1- Algebra Watts = Volts * Amperage is correct, but we need to go back a step to Ohm's law (Volts = Amperage * Resistance) to work this out. We can rearrange Ohm's law to I = ...


2

Wrap it tightly in aluminized bubble insulation and put it into a cheap plastic toolbox. Mount the controller on the front or back and you can even open up the toolbox to get the unit in and out to clean it. Just make it easy to clean.


2

I have never used a 1" setup, nor have I seen one, but hey lets see if this will work for you. The easiest way will be to buy 2 of these clamps. They have a 10mm threaded port on the bottom that can be bolted or welded to your stand. They have quick releases to easily remove your RIMS tube and clean it. If you would like to mount it vertically that will ...


1

For the mash liquor, you could do the strike-temp heating in the mash tun through the RIMS tube before adding grains, and then RIMS to hold/change temp. The sparge liquor is going to be a problem, though; without a second vessel, you'd need to add cold sparge liquor, then RIMS-heat it up to sparge temp, which probably isn't going to do great things for the ...


1

Even with RIMS you should do the vorlauf step.... Set the grain bed manually before you start RIMS circulation. This will prevent the initial chunks from getting stuck in the RIMS plumbing. I prefer stainless braided ring as false bottoms.


1

You usually should not need to use rice hulls. If you are keep torrified wheat or oats below 5% you'll be fine. When you go beyond 5% of the malt bill especially with oats I would advise adding some rice hulls, about 1/10 the amount of oats you are using eg for a pound (454g) of oats about 1.5-2oz (50g) of hulls. This has always worked well for me. If you ...



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