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You can't fix Sh!t beer. Invest your time and money on re-brewing it the way you wanted to brew it. Pouring the beer into a fermentor will only oxidize it and make it worse, regardless of what you want to add to it. If you are really hell bent on keeping it, go to your favorite bottle shop and buy the strongest double IPA you can get. And blend to taste ...

IMHO, play this batch to its strengths, e.g. cooking ribs or perhaps serving on nitrogen, or mix at pouring time with another beer. You could try salvaging the batch by blending, but if it still doesn't turn out as you like, then you will have wasted two batches. Since it's already bottled, that would deter me away from trying to rescue it, and instead I ...

These gravities are pretty close together so it doesn't really matter much which you brew first. As long as the yeast is sitting in the base of the fermentor as a tight cake you can pull more than enough beer out without it effecting the next one too much. And you don't need to pitch the whole cake, just half a pint or so. I have done this with good ...

There is no reason...that's an old, disproven myth. I've gone from dark to light many times without any problems. The theory is that as you mention you'd carry over color. There's so little color carried over that it's unnoticeable. For example, I've pitched yeast from a dunkel into a pils and not had it darken the pils.

It is generally recommended to brew low-gravity beers before higher-gravity ones when re-pitching yeast. It is often said that you should also pitch light before dark beers. I asked a question about this recently. Color transfer isn't usually a problem, but you should pitch low- to high-gravity. With this in mind, I would brew the Scottish Export first, ...

it's about transferrence of color and to some extent flavor. Even though the slurry is heavily diluted, by 20 times or more, you wouldn't want coffee or caramel notes transferring from your dunkelweizen into your hefeweizen. I depends on the beers, and how much of the previous cake you're reusing. With brewing on top of the yeast cake, there definitely is ...

WY1084 can be a slow starter. On at least 3 occasions has 1084 left me with no visible signs of fermentation for 72 hours, and then it springs into life. Give it 72 hours and then decide what to do. I'd be very surprised if the yeast really are dead. More than likely you'll see signs of fermentation. You can use either campden tablets (1 per gallon is ...

I vote for #1. First of all, the reason to smack a pack is to assess the viability, not to grow more yeast. Maybe you were already aware of that. Did it swell at all? Your OG was higher than I like to direct pitch, but not so high as to give you real problems. Your wort should still be OK given good cleaning and sanitiation procedures, but you could ...

I have never tried this personally, however I remember an episode of "Basic Brewing Radio" titled "Hopped Vodka" or something like that. This guy used Vodka (and a specific procedure) to basically make a hop extract. The hops were soaked in the Vodka and a couple different distillation procedures were used (freezing and removing water, and something else) ...

I'm in line with brewchez and mdma when they say not to rescue the beer especially since it has already been bottled. Everything tends to get better with time, so cellar the beer, forget about it and revisit it around November or December and see if it's gotten any better. If not, I'll give you my address (I'm one state over) and you can ship it to me. NEVER ...