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8

Yeast work better at warmer temps, and at this point you want the yeast to ferment the priming and carb your beer. That means you should keep the beer around 70-75°F (21-24°C) while you're trying to carb it. Once it's carbed, putting it in the fridge will not only aid the dissolution of CO2 into the beer, but will also retard staling. At this point, your ...


7

In terms of controlling esters/fusels/flavors, my understanding is that temperature control is most important in the first 48-72 hours of fermentation. But in terms of yeast happiness, temp control can be more important for a longer stretch. If the temperature of the beer will rise after you turn off temp control, then you don't have a big problem. But if ...


4

I've used Wyeast smack packs as old as 3 1/2 years and they worked fine. Just keep it cold in the fridge til you're ready to use it. And, for your own sake, make a starter with it. See mrmalty.com for instructions. Keep the hops in their original packing in the freezer til you use them and they'll stay good for years.


3

Letting the beer get warm will shorten its shelf life as the heat speeds up staling reactions. Doesn't really matter that its cycling from hot to cold or not. Its a cumulative time at warm temps that short the freshness over time. Its not the best practice.


3

Depends on what you mean by "damage", but that is how the labs quickly simulate how a beer will go through staling reactions over time. Could you put a temperature controller on the fridge and hold it at cellar temperature (~55F)? That would keep the beer at a stable temperature in a good range for aging, but still be warm enough to cut down on ...


2

Try increasing your room temp for a about a week and then fridge overnight. If that doesn't help then it's back to the drawing board I'm afraid.


2

CO₂ solubility is a function of temperature. If you can force carbonate, temperature and pressure can be varied in relation to each other to obtain a particular level of carbonation (generally expressed in the number of volumes of CO₂ dissolved into the beer). When you bottle-prime, you've added a fixed amount of sugar, which means a fixed amount of CO₂. ...


2

For lagers, temperature control is critical for the first week or two. Some lager yeasts have a fairly narrow band of fermentation temperatures ca. 10 degrees F/5 degrees C - going too high will produce a fruity lager, too low can stall the ferment, so the temperature controller is needed to help fix the temperature and avoid swings that will negatively ...


2

Wyeast says that the activator packs are good for up to 6 months after the production date. Northern Brewer guarantees the packages for up to three months after production and will replace any packs that fail to inflate. The inflation of the package is your viability test for the yeast, if it inflates you should have viable yeast. For certain strains it ...


2

You're good. I'm sure everything is still fine. You did the right thing by keeping everything cold. Before you brew, you can pop the pouch in the yeast and let it warm to room temeperature and it will swell, this will let you know that the yeast is viable. I usually pop mine and let it sit out for 24 hours or so. I personally, would brew with out any ...



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