# Tag Info

7

Here's some tips on getting an accurate hydrometer reading: check the hydrometer is calibrated, by checking that water reads 1.000 at the calibration temperature (either typically 65F or 20C). I've tried both distilled water and tap water and by both read the same. when taking a sample from a extract-based brew, particularly partial boil where top up water ...

5

If you follow a process like this, you won't be far off: Dilute the syrup to create a 10% solution. E.g. add 10g of syrup to 90g of water and stir well. Take the specific gravity of the 10% solution, e.g. 1.030 Express this as a fraction of a 10% solution of sucrose, which has specific gravity 1.040. So, our example of 1.030 is .75 the gravity of a 10% ...

5

An OG reading of 1.12 seems about double what you would expect for that grain bill, and gravity is only really affected by dissolved solids. Obviously the first thing you should do is check your hydrometer to make sure it is accurate, that is almost certainly the cause of the error. In water the specific gravity should read 1.00 since specific gravity is ...

5

You do it by multiplying the ratios of the imperial/English units to metric units: 1 kg is 2.204 lb 10l is 2.641 gal To convert from pounds per gallon to kilos/decaliter you multiply by 2.204/2.641 = 0.834 The answer is then 46*0.834 = 38.4 points per kilo/10 l. Edit: I always find these things confusing with "cascaded" ratios - points per pound ...

5

If the starter fully fermented, most of the 1.040 should be gone; normal yeast attenuation is around 75%, so you should have 1L of 1.010 beer in the starter vessel. 1L of 1.010 beer into 19L of 1.076 OG wort would reduce the OG down to about 1.073. (76 points * 19L + 10 points * 1L) / 20L = 72.7 points = 1.073. Though if possible, you should try to ...

4

You don't need a starter since you're pitching to 1/4 batch size that a whitelabs vial is good for. Normally you'd use 2-4 vials for a 20 liter batch, depending upon gravity, so that's equivalent to 1/2 to 1 a vial for a 5 liter batch. For the detailed figures, see Always making a starter vs. following package description. One way to know the OG prior to ...

4

The key piece that's missing here is extraction efficiency - how much sugar you can get out of the grains. In the calculator, it's set at 80%, but it's doubtful you got that just from steeping and lautering in a pot. You typically need continual recirculation to get 80%+. With my old equipment (a large cooler with a hand-made series of pipes with slits.) I ...

3

You don't need to be excessively concerned now. If the beer really was 1.076, the yeast will multiply to the quantity needed to ferment it - they don't just suddenly stop working when the OG goes above 1.060 - the yeast will still ferment and make beer. However, the multiplication is a stress factor for the yeast and the beer will not be as good as if you ...

3

It's hard to get a low original gravity when brewing from an extract kit. As long as you added all the malt extract and sugar provided with the kit, and you added the correct amount of water, there's really no way for the starting gravity to be low. I can think of two possible reasons that your OG was lower than expected: you added more water than ...

3

You say its taking "Far Longer." how long have you been fermenting? What is the gravity of the pils? if your IPA gravity is 1008/1007 over the last two days I would say your pretty near finished. Assuming your IPA was in the 1050s/1060's when you started; you got great attenuation, I would check gravity again tomorrow and if your getting the same range go ...

2

You could add enough DME to offset the lower than expected starting gravity. However, you run a couple of risks by doing so. Contamination. You'll want to boil the DME in a small amount of water to ensure any foreign organisms are dead. Cool it to room temperature before adding to the fermenter. Also, sanitize everything that comes in contact with the ...

2

Typically with a kit if you used the proper amounts of water/sugar/extract ratio your OG will be right on. Incomplete mixing of the wort doesn't seem like a problem considering you shook the fermenter well. In this video at 25:25 Owen Lingley from Wyeast Laboratories says that only 45 seconds vigorously shaking a carboy will oxoginate the wort to acceptable ...

2

Most hydrometers are calibrated at 60°F (15.56°C). Though the difference will be negligible at your temperatures, you should still use a calculator like this one: http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator/hydrometer.html

1

Besides the potential causes that @mdma cites (possibly mash is too thick, leading to poor contact of water with grain and poor sparging), which can be solved by having a more liquid mash (at least 0.55L of strike water per kg of grain, or 1.3 qts. per lb.), a primary cause is the fact that your efficiency tends to decline as your grain volume (OG) ...

1

Average it! Multiply your starter volume and wort volume by their original gravities respectively to produce numbers that can be combined to derive an average gravity reading from the blend. Do this by dividing the sum of the gravity-volume products by the sum of all wort: ( ( OG1 * V1 ) + ( OG2 * V2 ) ) / ( V1 + V2 ) = SG Where... OG1 is the ...

1

If you used liquid yeast, you did not pitch enough yeast. Despite what the yeast manufacturers say, a pack of liquid yeast alone should not be used for a beer over 1.040 OG. Both my experience and scientific pitching rate calculators confirm this. If it was dry yeast, you probably have just barely enough. No matter which kind you used, it would be a good ...

1

You are almost right; the mash gravity depends on the mash efficiency which in turn depends on the mash temperature and mash time. A higher mash temperature will result in longer sugars which are harder for the yeast to ferment. This leads to more full bodied beer. A lower mash temperature will give shorter sugars which are easy for the yeast to ferment, ...

1

Alcohol (ethanol) freezes at -114°F (-84°C) so you could freeze-distill the beer which will freeze the water, but not the alcohol, so you can separate out the alcohol and measure that. Although I believe you have to do this slowly for the alcohol to separate out, so I don't think it's workable in practice. The freezing point of beer is related to ...

1

There's something fishy about your numbers here. For example, to get a OG of 1.072 with your grain bill I need to assume 80% efficiency. Is that what you're used to getting? As far as the source of your problem, it could be any number of things and right now we're only going to be able to guess. If in the future you take gravity readings throughout the ...

1

I wouldn't give the instructions too much thought, most kits suggest the same fermentation period and in my experience they are always wrong. Also you dont need to worry about temperatures down to 17c - in fact lager yeast likes it cold. I always leave 2 weeks for primary fermentation, then transfer to a secondary fermenter for a further 2 weeks. At that ...

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