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5

Yes, a lower original gravity will result in a lower-alcohol final product. However, if this was an extract kit and if you added the correct amount of water, the discrepancy is almost certainly a measurement error. A common mistake is to draw the hydrometer sample without having first mixed the extract thoroughly into the water. This will lead to an ...


5

If you follow a process like this, you won't be far off: Dilute the syrup to create a 10% solution. E.g. add 10g of syrup to 90g of water and stir well. Take the specific gravity of the 10% solution, e.g. 1.030 Express this as a fraction of a 10% solution of sucrose, which has specific gravity 1.040. So, our example of 1.030 is .75 the gravity of a 10% ...


4

The key piece that's missing here is extraction efficiency - how much sugar you can get out of the grains. In the calculator, it's set at 80%, but it's doubtful you got that just from steeping and lautering in a pot. You typically need continual recirculation to get 80%+. With my old equipment (a large cooler with a hand-made series of pipes with slits.) I ...


2

Average it! Multiply your starter volume and wort volume by their original gravities respectively to produce numbers that can be combined to derive an average gravity reading from the blend. Do this by dividing the sum of the gravity-volume products by the sum of all wort: ( ( OG1 * V1 ) + ( OG2 * V2 ) ) / ( V1 + V2 ) = SG Where... OG1 is the ...


2

I take it out of the bag and put it in a bowl or something to pour from. Then I pour slowly while stirring. Minimal clumpage.


2

I've had this same thing happen to me before. My pre-boil gravity was one thing and the post boil gravity was actually LESS than the pre-boil. I do all grain and I've found this happens if I take my pre-boil gravity after collecting my wort WITHOUT stirring the wort in the kettle. What happens in my case is that my first runnings sit in the bottom of the ...


2

If this was a partial boil batch and you added water to top up after the boil, the problem is that you didn't get it mixed well enough before taking a reading. It's a very common problem. The wort, containing sugar, is heavier than water and sinks to the bottom of the fermener. It's very difficult to get them thoroughly mixed, so the reading you get is ...


1

I, too, was always coming up a few points short on my OG. My epiphany was an article in BYO magazine (I think) that explained the need to adjust recipes for one's own equipment and efficiency. My experience lead me to believe that recipes generally use a 72-75% efficiency value, which could explain why those are the defaults in brewing software. I scaled ...


1

Change that batch sparge to a fly sparge if you can. Use a good false bottom with little dead space (something like this works great: http://morebeer.com/products/stainless-steel-false-bottom-12-diameter.html). Also remember that the sparge needs even, unidirectional flow to get the sugars away from the grain. Never stir it if you don't absolutely have to. ...


1

1) 1.041 vs. 1.049 is not a big difference. You might notice the difference but likely won't worry if everything else is in balance. You might taste more hop, since there will be less residual sugar. 2) The bucket is bigger than the carboy to allow for foaming during the first few days of fermentation. But many, many home brewers just go with a carboy and ...


1

It's too late for this beer in my opinion. Adding DME+water could work at a really high concentration. I have never done this, but there's no reason why that wouldn't work. But that seems more trouble than its worth to me. A new starter should not be necessary. To be honest, you should have left the extra sugar out. That's just going to thin it out and ...


1

No, water would bring the SG closer to 1.0, which is the SG of water.


1

You can have a lab analysis done on it, but that's not practical. Without knowing the sugar content of the pre-fermented wort, you really have no other accurate way of determining alcohol content. But you can take a couple guesses. First, examine your notes from previous and upcoming brews to determine your typical efficiency. Apply this to the recipe you ...


1

Besides the potential causes that @mdma cites (possibly mash is too thick, leading to poor contact of water with grain and poor sparging), which can be solved by having a more liquid mash (at least 0.55L of strike water per kg of grain, or 1.3 qts. per lb.), a primary cause is the fact that your efficiency tends to decline as your grain volume (OG) ...



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